aero_sallee
20+ Year Contributor
- 575
- 6
- May 1, 2003
-
Wichita,
Kansas
I was using the V-Trim as an example because it was about the only turbo I could think of with a similar price tag to a modded 16G that had a good bit more potential.
Gotcha.
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I was using the V-Trim as an example because it was about the only turbo I could think of with a similar price tag to a modded 16G that had a good bit more potential.
Eclipserydazz: I just installed my 16g turbo and bought it from the same place you did!! I hope i get as good of luck as you did!!
No i did port anything on the turbo i was gonna and i probly should have!!
Nope I would like to get some Cams, and other goodies on my car. I know i can make a little bit more power then i am now with a few more bolt ons.
I had also ported a 2g exhaust manifold along with a 02 housing so hopefully I dont have boost creep
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Considering stock cam's, then you've just proven a whole lot here. 35 whp less than an evo3 16g running c16 and a cam upgrade.
Considering stock cam's, then you've just proven a whole lot here. 35 whp less than an evo3 16g running c16 and a cam upgrade.
Thanks a lot, but I am considering Cams very soon.
What's the input in adjustable Cam Gears?
I have herd Pros and a lot of Cons about these.
You know i was thinking about doing that as well. You have any pics to post on that?
I noticed a sharp increase in spool retarding my stock exhaust cam about 3 degrees running my small 16g. It didn't feel like it dropped off up top as much as one would think when adding that much overlap. It seams that the stock cams have very little overlap dialed in for emmisions sake. Your idle will be very distinctive. An interesting experiment would be to retard the intake cam about 1-2 degrees then retard the exhaust cam about 3-4 degrees. You'll increase spool speed and should assist power up top.
I've mucked w/ cam timing on my fp2xs and seen good results too. I can turn fp2xs into fp3s w/ the adjustment of my exhaust cam gear. They're great to get every little bit out of your setup. Don't forget to readjust your ignition timing if you alter your intake cam timing.
No but there is enough bends left over to use. That HUGE J pipe in the front basically just flip it over. I had to cut the U in half because it was to sharp of a bend and that hung down from the bumper about an inch. Then cut various bends to snake up to the turbo. I had to do this when I installed my PTE turbo. Use a metal chop saw becuse that SS pipe is a bi*** to cut with a hack saw. I had an extra 2'' 90* bend I used to go from the bottom of the turbo or a 90* silicone coupler would have been better. Then routed it inbetween the radiator and the metal support. Its just big enough to get 2.5'' pipe through.
Purchase a J pipe and it would be pretty straight forward and simple.
The red shows the general direction of the pipe on my car. This was before the new paint in my current avatar just if you were wondering. The blue was where I had couplers. Obviously weld where you can. I just didnt have access to a tig.
Gosh that was ALOT of piping.
I love it how people are too cheap to even buy MHI turbos (which cost $500 for ****s sake) these days and have to resort to chinabay crap. Stop trying to reinvent the freakin wheel, and just get what's been proven to work, instead of risking your engine with this guinea pig crap. Also, why are you putting money into a company that is knocking off a turbo that was researched with some cheap metal piece of crap thats only purpose is to steal money from the manufacturer of actual QUALITY turbochargers. Putting something this crucial to your engines life, and something that needs to have very tight tolerances on your car that was built by a company in china that I wouldn't trust with a micrometer is something that just dumbfounds me.
I would have thought that $200 for the ease of mind that the turbo wont die on you in 2k miles would have been worth it. Guess I overestimate some DSMers.
I would love to see some dyno numbers though, unless you're scared to push the thing (Hell, I would be).
The red shows the general direction of the pipe on my car. This was before the new paint in my current avatar just if you were wondering. The blue was where I had couplers. Obviously weld where you can. I just didnt have access to a tig.
What the hell? So you just punched a hole right through the center of the rad, or what?
IM LOOKING FOR 11S I KNOW YOU CAN DO IT.
Not to get too far off topic but is your manifold ceramic coated or did you paint it yourself?
BTW, nice numbers EclipseRydazz! I hope I can do as well on my EVO3 16G.