Well the painter decided it would be smart to detach the brake lines from the ABS unit and then leave the unit out in the rain. So now I have water in the ABS unit. Aside from getting the scan tool to activate the ABS unit (not going to happen) and going out and get the ABS unit to trip (don't trust the brakes to work), is there any way to activate the ABS? Thanks for the help.

I need the same answer, but I have a 1G with an ABS unit and I've bled all the lines yet still very weak pedal. I think there's air stuck in the ABS unit.

The 2G WSM says to have the engine running when bleeding ABS brakes, though it never made a difference for me, Denso or Bosch.

There is also a specific order in which to bleed the wheels. Can't remember what it is though - I numbered the uprights with a paint stick

If you've bled the brakes repeatedly and still have a soft pedal, the problem is more likely to be elsewhere. Check for a caliper with a stuck piston, seized slider pins, or look for tapered wear on the pads. Another test is to hold the caliper and bracket whilst someone presses the brake pedal - you can feel the caliper moving, and this will often highlight which caliper is causing the problem as one caliper will feel markedly different to the other three.

Charles

Bringing this back from the dead...

I have a 95 talon and the upper frame rails by the headlights had some damage and the ABS pump has been pushed in also.

I land in the minority where I would like to keep ABS, but I need to remove the lines and drop the ABS so I can do a proper repair. Is there a process for bleeding the ABS pump or is the only way to purge any air in the pump by bleeding the whole system at each caliper?

thanks!