Pictures will help alot to figure out what it looks like.

Hey man,
the easiest way is to drill and tap NEW holes into the two bars that extend from the FMIC itself and bolt it to the frame. I'm not a fan of using the fog light bolts because they're small 6mm ones. Prop your FMIC up to where you want it and mark off where you want to drill. I used an 11/32" drill for the holes and then used a 10x1.25 tap for the thread. Then used a long 10x1.25x25 bolt to secure her on. Works like a charm. Let me try to find you some pics, if you need my help IM me later.

I just went to lowes and picked up 2 new SS Bolts that were the same thread as the 2 old foglight bolts, but longer

i just went to home depot and bought : a 5/16 tap and 1/4 bolts. i also got 5/16 sheet metal screws that i might use for extra support. im gonna go try and bolt it on now. is there a specific spot i should aim for on the frame??

Just pull those wires off that little plactic clip and you will beable to see everything. Either way....I used battery tiedown rods. Made a hole...hooked one end to the frame and tighted the bolt out the other end. I can stand on it and it wont go anywhere. Took 15 minutes. Goodluck.

I wouldve just replied tot he very big thread, but anyways, go to home depot and buy the right size that would fit int he existing foglight holes. If your car actually still had the foglights when you bought it, just bring that bolt and find similar at your local hardware store.

I am using those existing holes and just bought longer bolts, I have been using it like this right before this kit started being trusted, and here we are now, I have no problems, because there are no problems using them.

I apologize for bumping this old thread but let me add something here for those who are installing this kit along with a 14, 16, 18, 20g turbo setup. This FMIC requires additional fabrication for that type of turbo. The driver side outlet on the FMIC had to be cut to 1/2 inch right before the bead on it. The j pipe must be cut down by about 3.5 inches and the reducer pipe to the driver side FMIC outlet must be cut 3 inches as well.

thewraith said:

I apologize for bumping this old thread but let me add something here for those who are installing this kit along with a 14, 16, 18, 20g turbo setup. This FMIC requires additional fabrication for that type of turbo. The driver side outlet on the FMIC had to be cut to 1/2 inch right before the bead on it. The j pipe must be cut down by about 3.5 inches and the reducer pipe to the driver side FMIC outlet must be cut 3 inches as well.

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I used it with a 14B and didnt cut anything..

I had to cut the long lower pipe. The short part that attaches to the intercooler was way too long. Couldnt even think about installing it because it was hitting the oil filter housing.

EclipseTrbo420A said:

I used it with a 14B and didnt cut anything..

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Not to be a smartass here but you have a 420a engine right? That's not even remotely the same setup as we have. If you're talking about another car you have or had then perhaps it has something to do with my car being a 2ga talon (although I don't think that would matter). Or maybe my j pipe was different from yours.

thewraith said:

Not to be a smartass here but you have a 420a engine right? That's not even remotely the same setup as we have. If you're talking about another car you have or had then perhaps it has something to do with my car being a 2ga talon (although I don't think that would matter). Or maybe my j pipe was different from yours.

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. He had one of the nicest 2G GSX's on this site before he sold it and got his NT/motorcycle. A lot of people didn't have to cut anything.

I did not have to cut anything else either. I was also able to find some longer bolts because i work at auto zone so it wasn't to hard.

Ahhhh, I see- but I honestly see NO WAY of it fitting the way I received it. Maybe they change the piping up?

thewraith said:

Not to be a smartass here but you have a 420a engine right? That's not even remotely the same setup as we have. If you're talking about another car you have or had then perhaps it has something to do with my car being a 2ga talon (although I don't think that would matter). Or maybe my j pipe was different from yours.

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Like said above It was on my GSX and the j pipe I used was the Dejon...best j pipe out I would say.

I used some beefy-assed self-tapping screws, two per side. Just get the intercooler jacked up into position, drill and then use the drill to screw them in. It's as solid as a brick shit-house.

BoostedinSoFla said:

. He had one of the nicest 2G GSX's on this site before he sold it and got his NT/motorcycle. A lot of people didn't have to cut anything.

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Just so you know, that depends COMPLETELY on which turbo/manifold you're running. A downward firing turbo will have its outlet in a totally different place than a 14b/16g with one of those spaghetti-looking J-pipes. It's a 300 dollar intercooler and piping kit built in a chinese sweatshop, of course the thing is going to have to be adapted to your setup. I'm not knocking it, since I'm running it and I love it, I just think you need to understand that it's not complete bolt-on. Mr. Yang Sung doesn't give a shit either, he only cares about making his slaves work harder.

Anyways, back on topic. My only complaint about the kit is that the flanges are warped, since they were welded AFTER they were ground flat. Minor issue though. Oh yeah, and the upper intercooler piping is just a HAIR short, so it could use a longer coupler to make the stretch.

All in all, it's not a bad deal for 300 bucks. Or yen. Or whatever the sweatshop charges.

thekellbeast said:

Just so you know, that depends COMPLETELY on which turbo/manifold you're running. A downward firing turbo will have its outlet in a totally different place than a 14b/16g with one of those spaghetti-looking J-pipes. It's a 300 dollar intercooler and piping kit built in a chinese sweatshop, of course the thing is going to have to be adapted to your setup. I'm not knocking it, since I'm running it and I love it, I just think you need to understand that it's not complete bolt-on. Mr. Yang Sung doesn't give a shit either, he only cares about making his slaves work harder.

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I don't need any advice/info buddy, I've sold tons of these kits. I know everything about them.

And what's with the chinese jibba jabba?

My bad, I didn't realize that you had direct experience with these kits. I didn't pick that up from your post. Some people (including myself when I first got the kit) might not realize that some adapting has to be done to run this. I just wanted to make that clear. It's not really a bad thing.

Anyways, about the Chinese comments - It's an SSAutochrome product. Where do you think they make their stuff? I don't see any 'Made in the USA' stickers on it...

BoostedinSoFla said:

jibba jabba?

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Beer.

I realized that some type of fabrication would be needed. I am using the stock manifold as many others have- but I can't offer a non biased opinion since I installed the fmic with something other then the stock turbo on the 2g. However any fmic kit i've purchased in the past and installed (and i've done a lot of them) has always fit perfectly with no fabrication necessary.

TSIMonsteR said:

I just went to lowes and picked up 2 new SS Bolts that were the same thread as the 2 old foglight bolts, but longer

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Thats why theres a gap between the bumper and the IC bottom. You have to drill new holes like stated above and it will fit without modification.

ebay_turbo_install_pictures_16g Photo Gallery by itsmeek at pbase.com

pics here..

So what you're saying is if you install it using the stock foglight holes, it sits too high?

Havent heard of that

kawboy said:

So what you're saying is if you install it using the stock foglight holes, it sits too high?

Havent heard of that

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it wil work but there will be a gap, I wanted it to look perfet so I just make holes in the lower rad support