Off subject but this is for turboglenn. Sorry I don't know how to send pics in PMs. The first pic is of the wiring and the old MAP sensor (still in place but disabled under DSMlink Misc). The second pic is of the GM sensor T'd off of the BOV.

Is there any reason you still have that MDP sensor, instead of just eliminating it and wiring the GM MAP sensor in its place?

I don't see how the GM MAP sensor would replace the stock one? PM me about this so we don't get too off topic on here

Yea you can use the map sensor you have. I have never heard of a 3.3bar should be a 3 bar. Kit comes with 5,7,10 nozzles. should have all your bases covered from mild to pretty modded.


Start and full is trial and error and tunning. Now Full is not always your max boost. If he nozzle is too big you can set full higher than max boost to lessen nozzle size.

Cool. Your kit should show up friday so I'll post if I have any problems after the weekend.

K, let me know if you got any questions. Post up some pics to if you don't mind.

Devilsown. I've emailed you 3 times now and no responce. Are you getting any emails from "turboglenn" that's what it shows up as.. either that or R.G. Miller

No. I have not gotten any from you. Which address are you sending them to?

edit

I just went and check our spam filters and some how they have gotten set to the most strict rules


Try again.

Devilsown said:

No. I have not gotten any from you. Which address are you sending them to?

edit

I just went and check our spam filters and some how they have gotten set to the most strict rules


Try again.

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I miss a lot of emails that same way. I'll send them again later, or just write new ones if they aren't still in my out box. Thanks for the reply

Here's a couple pics. Only of the tank and pump mounted. Had a question though. Is it ok that the pump is on its side like that or should it be straight up and down? Also, is that the proper way to wire the float switch to an LED?

More pics. I ran it up the drivers side under the carpet and through the firewall. Had just enough hose.

A lot of the fittings seem like the pneumatic and hydraulic stuff i get for my special moving parts builds and nitrous setup

So, my question is, can i use an external/internal FI pump, run through -3 lines and through a nitrous or fuel solenoid with no adverse effects on the colenoids? Or could i even put it through a pneumatic "310 valvve" I might not put the nitrous back on and unless i can get the meth/alky kit i need without all the extras, I'm going to have to build it myself. I've got the ECU capabilities to do it. Just wondering if it's safe on the NOS parts to put meth or "heet" through them. and what pressures does it need to be injected at? Also, are the nozzles just like nitrous nozzels ( like teh fan sprayers that mix teh fuel and n2o on teh simple we kits)

i'll weld up a sheet metal tank, so NO i'm not trying to use teh nos bottle before some one jumps on, doesnt' read the whole thing and starts yaking about that

I also emailed you AGAIN about a "bare bones kit" did you get it? i haven't gotten a response here or through email.

The green light on the controler isn't coming on and I don't think I'm injecting meth. I'll have to hook up my boost controller and see if that helps but does anyone have any suggestions?

Might have figured it out. The hose was crimped where I pulled it through the firewall. There was fluid in the line but it probably wasn't injecting like it should of. Could that have caused the green pump light not to come on? Also what do you guys use to seal your fittings in your tank? I'm getting a slight leak.

It worked! No knock at 20psi! I'd like to get a better timing curve but I'm happy right now. I turned my full setting up because it seemed like it was bogging. Weird thing was as soon as it hits it goes pig rich but then theres a lean spike from 4k-4.4k. From there it's a very smooth a/f. One other thing. The green pump light stayed on the whole time but the yellow light flashed periodically. Didn't seem to affect anything according to the log. Lemme know what you guys think. I might turn the boost up to like 23-25psi and give it another shwack.

Pump is still leaking though. Can't tell yet from where it's coming from. Could that be why the yellow light is flashing during a pull? I'll mess with it tomorrow. I can still get a steady a/f ratio and tune so...

Update: The pump is still leaking and I think it's causing tuning issues. I'm getting knock from probably an inconsistant pressure. Only thing I can think is that the pump is mounted horizontaly and not vertically. Other then that she's flyin.

devilsown : may i know the price of the DSM progressive and how much does it cost you to send it over to asia , thank you, let me know, water injection isnt practised in this part of asia , we could have a good deal to be a dealer here

I think I may have figured it out. I used this gas/oil resistant seal all that I used to seal the leaks on my tank. I think the leak was coming from the fittings. Have you guys gotten alot of problem with leaks at these fittings?

Update: fixed the leaks but still having problems. I installed the M10 nozzle too. I did 3 back to back logs of 3rd,4th gear pulls. 1st and 3rd logs showed knock but second didn't. The yellow light still flashes randomly at WOT. Any ideas?

I was thinking that since it's only at WOT my problem is too much (or too
little) voltage. I'm leaning towards too little since the wires are so small.
I'm thinking of doing a rewire similar to a fuel pump rewire.

Hiitman you can mount the pump in any orientations. As it says in the instructions i recomend putting a small dab of silicon on the washer. If the surfs is not very flat in the area it can sometimes not get the best seal. Might need to remove it all and sand the area with some sand paper and reinstall. Sounds like you might have some wires loose. A kink in the lines will just cause the pump to run and lights to be on but no fluid.

First need to start by going over all the fittings and ensuring there is no leaks. If there are leaks between the pump and tank, the pump can just suck air. This will lead to not getting the desired results. We have afew here in there but most people are able to tighten the fittings alttile more to keep them from leaking. Might need to pull them out and put more teflon paste on the threads.

If the yellow light flashes randomly you have a loose wire. Its the error light on the controller. How is your map sensor getting power? From our controller or did you wire it diectly to a power source?


turboglenn. i replyed to your email.

thilaksharma if you go to our site and put the kit in the cart it will figure shipping once you put in th country you live in.

I wired it using this instal guide GM 3 bar map sensor install for use with DSMLINK VFAQ. Would a lack of voltage cause this? I might run power wire for the controller since it's also powering the pump.

Could a fairly good size boost leak cause this? I just found one at my egr block off plate. So much so that it was spraying meth out of the leak. My other problem. I didn't pull the fuse when I was doing my boost leak test. Should I just follow the instructions to clear it out?

Hiitman said:

Could a fairly good size boost leak cause this? I just found one at my egr block off plate. So much so that it was spraying meth out of the leak. My other problem. I didn't pull the fuse when I was doing my boost leak test. Should I just follow the instructions to clear it out?

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I'm not sure if you determined that during the boost leak test or not. If yes, then you need to disable the injection when doing a boost leak test (or risk hydrolock). Either d/c the power to the pump or remove the hose at the check valve and point it in a safe direction. The benefit of this latter method is that you can confirm at what boost pressure the injection is activating at as well as confirming that you are indeed injecting fluid at the nozzle (relative to your previously stated concern).

I meant to remove power to the pump before the boost leak test. Is there a better method other then pulling the plug wires, holding it at wot and turning it over a couple times to clear it out?