Hey all,

I've been searching for some info on just getting into road racing. I've been doing the drag strip thing for years, and now that I've got another DSM, I was thinking about building her a little more tuned for Road Racing / Autocross and would love any input you guys could give me. This is my daily driver right now, so I'm not looking to go crazy modding my car. I just put new suspension on her and I am planning on starting to do power mods over the winter. I know we are basically at the end of the racing season, but I would like to start planning, as I intend to work on the car a bit over the winter.

I also have a few specific questions (please excuse my newb-ness):

Open Track Days? I'm assuming by the name that these are events that do not require you to be a part of a club in order to race? How can I find these in my area?

SCCA? I've looked around on their site as well as the WDCR-SCCA and have been thinking about joining. What does this entail? Looks to me that you pay to become a member and then have to take a few driving classes or something as well as race a few times to rank up to a Pro member from Novice?...this sound correct?

Braking - I know my car has a good deal of heat fade (I actually had my ceramic pads smoking one time....heh). Do you all recommend brake upgrades (can't you swap in VR4 calipers and rotors or something)?

Cooling - Is this a big issue w/ Road Racing? I've seen quite a few posts about it...

Spyder...? I've seen some pics around here and seen some little MG convertables racing, so I'm guessing it's not a biggie. Would I need a roll bar or something in order to race?

What other upgrades would you all recommend? Keep in mind this is my daily, and I'd just like to have some fun with her. I might possibly buy a track-only car eventually if I really end up getting into this......

Any / all info is much appreciated.

Thanks!

~ JK

First AutoX and track days are two different beasts. Your questions are more focused towards road racing.

Open Track Days? I'm assuming by the name that these are events that do not require you to be a part of a club in order to race? How can I find these in my area?


SCCA? I've looked around on their site as well as the WDCR-SCCA and have been thinking about joining. What does this entail? Looks to me that you pay to become a member and then have to take a few driving classes or something as well as race a few times to rank up to a Pro member from Novice?...this sound correct?


Braking - I know my car has a good deal of heat fade (I actually had my ceramic pads smoking one time....heh). Do you all recommend brake upgrades (can't you swap in VR4 calipers and rotors or something)?


Cooling - Is this a big issue w/ Road Racing? I've seen quite a few posts about it...


Spyder...? I've seen some pics around here and seen some little MG convertables racing, so I'm guessing it's not a biggie. Would I need a roll bar or something in order to race?


What other upgrades would you all recommend? Keep in mind this is my daily, and I'd just like to have some fun with her. I might possibly buy a track-only car eventually if I really end up getting into this......


and PM me for parts i am parting out a complete road race 1ga AWD.

What are the differences between Auto-X and Road Racing anyway?

By "hoop" I'm guessing you mean a simple bar behind the seats?

Well autoX is typically set up in a parking lot top speeds typically are 60mph-75mph. You run 1 lap at a time ~2minutes max. Upto 6 laps per day. Cost of ~40 bucks or less.

Road Racing (open track days) you typically run 20minute sessions typically 3-4 sessions a day. cost ~125+ per day. Expect to run through tires and brakes alot quicker in road racing.

Yes hoop I mean simple roll bar such as a 4 point/not full cage.

Check out Summit Point. It is a road course in West Virginia (close to Charles Town) and they have several open days (FATT, Friday At The Track) where you can register and run.

Read the rules before you start modifying! You want to compete at the top of your class. I built me engine first and that put me in an extremely tough auto x class. I was still on the stock turbo, exhaust and everything. you should be able to find the classes and allowable mods at scca.org Pick a class that you want to be in and do all of the allowable mods for that class.

First of all welcome! Second, hang on! This will be one of the most rewarding automotive experiences you will ever have. RusherRacing has some excellant points in his first post, but dont get too caught up in classes and modifying the car just yet. Baby steps first and that means lots of seat time.

There are a ton of organizations that cater to the weekend track day to Grassroots/Pro racing. I first started out in NASA in their HPDE program, but quickly learned that it wasn't the environment for me. I've spent the last year driving with a local organization (TDE) and PCA (Porsche Club of America) to get a solid foundation before jumpping into time trials. That's not to say NASA is not an organziation to start off in, but the Lone Star Capter was....well, how did Rich and Greg put it..."Mickey Mouse Club". Your local track will be very knowledgable about the organizations it associates itself too. Choose an environment that is safe and comfortable for you to learn in.

If the car is stock, then cooling shouldn't be much of an issue. Number one priority should be maintenance and reliability. This will allow you to make the most of your event (can't have fun worrying or fixing things). Most organizations also have a required tech check list to run through. It's a good starting point and will keep your car open if you decide to enter competition.

Brakes and tires are the only exceptions to the rule. A good set of brake pads will make all the world of difference and a good set of tires to learn on wont hurt either. Now you can over due it with the tires. As a beginner, you will benefit from a good street tire rather than rcompounds or slicks. The sticky rubber hides mistakes that inevitably grow into bad habbits. Street tires will help you discover driving at the limit and generally provide good indications when things are about to go wrong.

As a convertable, some organization will let you run in the lower run groups granted there is some type of factory roll over protection (pop up type included). If your vehicle does not come equipped with that, then a roll bar is mandatory (Miatas for example). It's a safety thing and a little insurance can go a long way. In addition I know PCA requires teathers or wrist restraints to keep the hands in out of dangers way.

Other than that, keep and open mind and get ready for the time of your life. Seat time is the most important thing in track driving. The driver mod ultimatly dictactes the speed of the car, not the car's hardware. Once you've cleared your first track day, things will be a lot less fuzzy and you'll be surprised how you're mod's list changes

The washington area has many events that you can go to. Autocross or road racing. Unfortunately we are a rarity, I typically am the only dsm out there in both road racing and autox. Although lately ive been getting some of my dsm friends into it.

Contact me if you want to know a little more......Here in the thread I post below you can see the difference between autox and road racing in the Washington DC region. I live in Vienna, or Tysons Corner as many know it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273197

Step 1: Hit the lottery.

adidalax said:

Braking - I know my car has a good deal of heat fade (I actually had my ceramic pads smoking one time....heh). Do you all recommend brake upgrades (can't you swap in VR4 calipers and rotors or something)?

Cooling - Is this a big issue w/ Road Racing? I've seen quite a few posts about it...

Click to expand...

Braking - You really don't need bigger brakes unless you're making a good deal more power than stock. Pads that can handle some heat ARE a requirement. I set some ceramic ones on fire and had to buy new calipers as the pistons fused to the inside of the calipers... Now using Porterfield R-4E pads, handle the track fine, are streetable (a little noisy and dusty, but work fine at low temps (including subzero)).

Cooling - I only hear of problems from people that have a stock radiator, A/C condensor, and a FMIC. Pick any 2 and you'll be fine. *Some* people even do OK with all 3. YMMV.

Last tip is to keep the power at a safe level. My car as setup now can do 20psi for one dyno pull before it heat soaks (makes 270whp), or it can run 18psi all day long. I keep it set at 16psi(250whp) at track days...

Defiant said:

Step 1: Hit the lottery.

Click to expand...

Complete.

Step 2?