[RESOLVED] Timingbelt Falling Apart [Merged 8-8] groove cut short bolt bolts

Niknuk · Aug 6, 2002

Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to show through. Obviously its time to change the tbelt. I was just wondering if anyone has heard of anything like this. It has to be something barely touching the belt to make it worn like that. Theres never any smell and the groove is no hotter (from friction) than any other spot. Should I do a full tbelt change and replace EVERYTHING or just the belt itself since everything was done 12k ago? :confused:

Oh yeah, is there anything else performance wise that I should do while i'm in there?

ilikespeeding · Oct 3, 2007

I dont have a BS anymore. The Water Pump is only 5k miles old. Do you think it's worth changing?

ROOKIE1 · Oct 3, 2007

I personally would not if you are sure of age .

ROOKIE1 · Oct 3, 2007

silver eclipse said:
Im gonna assume he ment bolt.

I will assume you "meant" meant . :tease:

Talesin · Oct 3, 2007

Balance shaft.

And yet another vote for that damn oil pan bolt. I lost a belt that way too, due to a stupid shadetree not listening when I told him about the one short bolt out of the set for the oil pan.

ROOKIE1 · Oct 3, 2007

moto x said:
someone help me im having a serious brain fart what does BS stand for

Bullshit
Bachelor of Science
Balance shaft

romeen · Oct 3, 2007

silver eclipse said:
...there is a bolt that is shorter than the others for the oil pan. If another one is used, it usually rubs the belt.

Talesin said:
And yet another vote for that damn oil pan bolt. I lost a belt that way too, due to a stupid shadetree not listening when I told him about the one short bolt out of the set for the oil pan.

I believe there are actually TWO oil pan bolts that are shorter than the rest, at least on the motors that I have seen. But agreed that this is the most likely cause.

silver eclipse said:
.....(closest 2 by the crank pully).....

silver eclipse · Oct 4, 2007

ROOKIE1 said:
I will assume you "meant" meant .

You will have to excuse me. I am by far not an english major. LOL

ilikespeeding · Oct 4, 2007

When I apply force to the timing belt inbetween the cams, should the intake cam move a little?

silver eclipse · Oct 5, 2007

Not unless your giving it a considerable amount of force.
You mean like barely touching, or baring down?

Splitpi · Oct 5, 2007

I could see a "little" twitch if you pushed down between the cams as there is a very small amount of slack it is not rock tight. But it would be almost un-noticible. The cam should pull up the belt which shoudl be locked to the Crank which in turn pulls down the the intake cam ... When you push down between the exhaust and intake cams. So they should be pretty much be locked in place.

If you are seeing considerable movement ... more than a degree of movement, then I would say there is slack in your timing belt and either the Hydralic tensioner or the Tensioner pulley or the tensioner arm is not working correctly or setup correctly.

That make sense?

luv2rallye · Oct 5, 2007

A tiny amount of slack is normal and it will vary depending on cams position.

SwitchSkier · Oct 20, 2007

I was replacing my oil pan gasket, and when putting it all together, the 2 short bolts stripped the threads out of the engine. I searched and found another person that this happened to, but they were using an air tool with a lot of torque. I was just snugging them down with a screwdriver attachment and it pulled the threads out clean. It looks like these don't bolt into the actual block, and to a cover on the side, which could be the reason. But why did they come out so easily? Will it just strip again? If it is prone to stripping like that, should I heli-coil the 2 holes, or tap them a bigger size?

DSMopar · Oct 20, 2007

Heh the title on this thread answers itself... They stripped because they're short. And if they go aluminum that just adds to it. Now that they're stripped you're going to have to heli-coil them if you want them to hold any pressure...

Defiant · Oct 21, 2007

Or, re-tap to ¼-20.

nc90awd · Oct 21, 2007

Yeah, you stripped the rear main seal housing. Aluminum is soft and easy to strip.

LV-DSM · Oct 21, 2007

I had that happen too. Retap it and make sure that you use an OEM length bolt! Anything longer will drag on your timing belt. There is very little clearance

DoyoFCT · Oct 21, 2007

All i gota say is, convert it to studs. i stoped pissing with bolts a long time ago, i convert everything i can to studs/nuts.

it makes sealing the oil pan a lot easier

ricktb · Oct 21, 2007

I have to change my oilpan gasket soon and was wondering about where I can find a set of studs and nuts for this? Alternatively, is there replacement OEM bolts available? What are the torque specifications for these bolts? Thanks for the advance info.

SwitchSkier · Oct 22, 2007

I can personally say now that torque specs=not a lot! I used my 1/4" socket wrench and just tightened them down with one hand. I think the book says 192in./lbs

Defiant · Oct 24, 2007

Fasteners this small don't use torque values, although the manual lists them in inch-pounds. You snug them up.
Any parts shop should have studs and nuts this size.

1gdsmraider · Oct 29, 2007

Alright I did a search and got two threads that were a bit .. old (2004) and sort of vague.

So here I go:

I stripped two of the bolt holes closest to the timing belt. The bolts that are closest to the middle. I have no idea what to look for in a tapping kit (dimensions, size etc.)

Where can I get items like these? I don't want to be running around buying, exchanging things and eating up valuable time listening to the local teenager who thinks he knows what hes talking about. I've done all kinds of work on the eclipse, but I have never had to tap/rethread a hole.

Rock on and thanks in advance!

ilikespeeding · Nov 17, 2007

Im pushing down with about the same amount twice the force used to flip a light switch off.

linksys42 · Nov 17, 2007

What could be causing this it is starting to really worry me. Its not the two oil pan bolts, but I do think it contacting in that area. Every thing is correctly lined up. And the tensioner is with in .15 to .18. All parts are genuine Mitsubishi except the power enterprises Kevlar belt. Any help would be great. pics below

talonTSIDriver · Nov 17, 2007

how many miles has this timing belt been on the car?

linksys42 · Nov 17, 2007

iugrad92turbo said:
Check the timing cover at the bottom,

Already did doesn't seem to be hitting the cover. I think its hitting the front casting. the cover bolted up fine and isnt warped or broken.

talonTSIDriver said:
how many miles has this timing belt been on the car?

Maybe 100 miles.

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[RESOLVED] Timingbelt Falling Apart [Merged 8-8] groove cut short bolt bolts

Niknuk

ilikespeeding

ROOKIE1

ROOKIE1

Talesin

ROOKIE1

romeen

silver eclipse

ilikespeeding

silver eclipse

Splitpi

luv2rallye

SwitchSkier

DSMopar

Defiant

nc90awd

LV-DSM

DoyoFCT

ricktb

SwitchSkier

Defiant

1gdsmraider

ilikespeeding

linksys42

talonTSIDriver

linksys42

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