Don't know what year you have. but that's not really important....

IMO timing belt jobs should consist of the following (if you don't have the balance shaft, then disregard the related items):

TB, BB, tensioner, 2 tensioner pulleys, idler pulley, water pump, 5 seals (2 cam seals, crank, balance shaft, oil pump shaft)

Some will say that you can get away with changing the water pump, 5 seals, and the pulleys every 120K. However I do it all every 60K as I'm just anal that way.

The motor has 171 miles on it, new crank, 2g slugs, new front case etc.

Are the 2 short oil pan bolts in the correct spot? It looks like thats what it rubbing the belt from the location of the marks. Change that nasty looking pulley to they are cheap enough.

LT1andDSM said:

The motor has 171 miles on it, new crank, 2g slugs, new front case etc.

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If it's only 171 miles, did you replace all the above mentioned parts?

If it's 171K, did you replace all the above mentioned parts?

If you replaced all the above mentioned parts then you shouldn't have any problems unless you got a defective part in the mix. Although from the pictures the first pulley looks to be used. Don't know.

The "notches" on the belt look like they could have come from the wrong bolt used in the front of the oil pan. Was it removed during your project?

there are 2 short bolts and they should be the same lenght on the oil pan, if not a larger bolt will hit the top of the belt and cause it to rub on it, i had to problem, just check the bolts on the oilpan, Good luck.

I think thats the problem I used the same size bolts all around. Do you guys think this has something to do with the fact the car keeps losing base timing?

Doubtful unless the belt is skipping teeth. Are you unplugging the logger, grounding the timing pin, and using a proper timing light to check it?

You need to replace the 2 bolts under the timing belt with short ones, asap.

well you dont have ANY of your info filled out but.. other than those two bolt's ive had an issue with my 95gsx wiht a 6bolt.. the tensioner pullie wqas rubbing aginst the pullie tracket arm thing and it wasnt spinning which casued a VERY simular t-belt to yours.. it all worked fine until i tensioned it all up then it woudl cause the issue i suggest ya check it.. i ended up grinding my tensioner pullie arm down a bit and its perfect now..

Problem FIXED!! One of those oil pan bolts was causing it. Now I can get this thing back on the streets Thanks to everyone

All my oil pan bolts are the same length. I heard that some are supposed to be shorter then others. My oil pan is leaking and I thought that could be the problem. Just wondering if someone could tell me how many short bolts there are and where they go on the oil pan.

Should be about 3 or four of them, they go directy under the crank pulley. They're shorter to avoid rubbing against the timing belt.

Its only 2 and they go in the hole under the oil pump sprocket and in the hole between the crank and oil pump sprockets. The one between the sprockets is the important one because a long bolt will rub the timing belt and cut a groove in it.

Ok, so I pulled off my timing belt cover. There is a groove on the side cloosest to the block. This belt is 5k miles old. ? My guess is this has something to do with my tensioner. If I apply force to the belt inbetween the cam gears there is a fair amount of play, but it is obvious that the belt is still intact. The car will not start. My guess is that the tensioner failed, skipped a tooth, and has ruined the belt. Anyone else with thoughts?

Is it on the smooth side?
Has the oil pan been removed before? If it has, there is a bolt that is shorter than the others for the oil pan. If another one is used, it usually rubs the belt.

There is usually a lil bit of play, a pic would help allot.

silver eclipse said:

Is it on the smooth side?
Has the oil pan been removed before? If it has, there is a bolt that is shorter than the others for the oil pan. If another one is used, it usually rubs the belt.

There is usually a lil bit of play, a pic would help allot.

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Yes. It's a 2.3 stroker. Its on the top of the belt, about a 1/8 of an inch from the side of the belt. I'll get a pic when I go back home. How do I realign cam and crank timing when I do a timing belt? I know hondas offer high tension belt tensioners. Has anyone heard about one of these for DSMs?

If it is close to the engine , inside edge . I second the oil pan bolt .

A new oem tensioner is good. Mitsu uses a hydrolic, Hondas I believe use spring. (correct me if im wrong on hondas)

As far as the groove(if thats it), I know from experience. I ended up just taking the bolt out of the pan (closest 2 by the crank pully) and grinded them down a small bit. That way you dont have to find which one is the correct one. If you can get the bottom cover off, them you can see if the bolt is sticking up out of the front case(were the pan bolts to the case).

The cam gears have notches on each. With the dowel pin at 12 o'clock they will line up. The crank has a plate (6bolt) or the trigger wheel (7bolt). There is a notch on it and a distinctive mark on the front case. If your not sure its the mark, Put the lower cover on and the crank pully. The crank pully has a mark, it should line up with the timing tab on the cover. The oil pump also need to be lined up with the mark on the case, as well as the BS if you still have them.

I had the same problem on my car the oil pan bolt was too long and creating a groove, in the belt. I used a smalller belt.

iugrad92turbo said:

I had the same problem on my car the oil pan bolt was too long and creating a groove, in the belt. I used a smalller belt.

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I don't think that was a good idea .

If it was a bolt, wouldnt the damage be on the side of the belt, not on the top whree the print is?

How the hell did you use a smaller belt?!?

It is where the bolt comes up on the oil pan . That is just how it is lined up . The belt is over the bolt .

iugrad92turbo said:

I had the same problem on my car the oil pan bolt was too long and creating a groove, in the belt. I used a smalller belt.

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Im gonna assume he ment bolt.

silver eclipse said:

Im gonna assume he ment bolt.

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That would make more sense. Well, there goes $300 between a kevlar belt, new tensioner, and a clear belt cover to prevent this shit from happening again without me noticing...

If you still have your BS and you havent changed the belt, I suggest doing it now.

And water pump.