The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Register Log in
Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sort by date Sort by votes
Without the water pump working, you really only have the outside air and fan cooling your motor. That's why it will overheat at idle. Get that done ASAP! It might not hurt to get the timing belt done while they pull everything off for the pump.
 
Upvote0
Now regarding the rumbling noise thats coming. Could it be from the bottom end because thats what the mechanic is saying. He says it could be the waterpump and the pump is leaking for sure. Its rumbling almost a knocking noise coming from the intake manifold side. Is that waterpump fins, has anyone else had this experience?
 
Upvote0
I don't mean to bump the thread but does anyone have any more suggestions. I have read about squealing noises but the noise I am getting is more of rumbling and I can feel in the gas pedal as well. Could that be the waterpump?
 
Upvote0
You won't know until you actually replace the waterpump first. Use a process of elimination. The waterpump is a possibility, so replace it. If that doesn't eliminate the noise (or drop coolant temps), then move on to another section of the engine. To help pin point the sound, take a big funnel or the cardboard part of a paper towel role, and hear through it for where the sound could be coming from. Also check your radiator for small leaks and getting a lower degree thermostat could also help with your overheating problems at idle.
 
Upvote0
so i replaced my water pump and timing belt about 5 months ago. I added a 16g turbo with new manifold and exhaust, and the car would overheat at idle really bad. So i just replaced the radiator with a fluidyne and it still has the same problems. when i drive it starts to cool down better than before with the new radiator, but idle is whats killing me. could it be the thermostat of fan? would either of those make that big of a difference? i also installed all the heat shields.
 
Upvote0
Since thermostats are cheap, I would go ahead and replace it. Have you been monitoring your coolant levels? Take it for a drive, get it up to temp, then park it and leave it running. Pop the hood and wait for the fans to cycle. If they never turn on (probably should take less than five minutes) then they are your problem. But if the fans do turn on then they can be eliminated. Let us know.
 
Upvote0
If the thermostat is bad and is not opening there will be very little circulation of coolant which could make a big difference at idle, also the fans cool down the engine at idle alot too becasue there si no airflow without them.
 
Upvote0
are you burning or leaking coolant?

I woud check that and then the fan/thermostats. New thermostats are pretty chap.

Also, what kind of water pump did you use? I've seen cheap ones do some pretty weird things in the past.
 
Upvote0
well i got an oem replacement pump, and did the head gasket also. im going to try the thermostat and check the fans. i may turn the on at all times with the dsm link. ill let you guys know. Thanks for the advice.
 
Upvote0
Alright I I have just dropped in my built motor, everything runs fine. EXCEPT every 2 miles EXACTLY (kind of odd) the temps will start to go up and it starts to overheat.

The water pump is new, I have a new MLS Head Gasket , I'm replacing the radiator as we speak but it looks to be good and worked on the car before the swap, i replaced the thermostat, replaced the radiator cap, burped the system added 2 slim fans, did a block test, head has been milled, block decked. I am stumped.

any ideas?
 
Upvote0
If you're replacing the radiator, do that and let us know if it's still over heating. There isn't going to be much left after that. You do have a FMIC right? Be sure your radiator is getting enough air flow. Are you running the stock fan?
 
Upvote0
I have the SSAC 2g FMIC, with 1 slimline fan. Once I get the radiator I'll be adding a second one(fan). I'm just hoping this isn't because of the head gasket not sealing correctly, that would really suck pulling everything apart again.
 
Upvote0
check for coolant leaks, just the other day i was driving and i started smoking white out of my engine bay, looked down and my temp was almost at high. i pulled over and had no coolant in my radiator hose. just randomly started leaking. make sure you have coolant though, and are not leaking in some hose in the very back of your engine bay like mine did.
 
Upvote0
Funny thing is too, theres no smoke at all and no smell of coolant at all. I will check the heater hoses, haven't thought of that, but I'm not losing coolant other then when I get hot and what comes out of the overflow tank
 
Upvote0
What is the correct way the fans should be spinning? should it be pushing air through the radiator and out towards the bumper or pulling the air back towards the engine bay?
 
Upvote0
Pulling air back. You want the cooler outside air to flow through the radiator fins to cool down the hot engine coolant, not the hotter air from the engine. Also pushing out would never work when the car is moving.
 
Upvote0
Replaced the radiator (stock one wasn't that bad) and wired in the a/c fan. Everything looks alright for the moment. I'll keep you posted.
 
Upvote0
if it heats up again check the heater core. It's probably your FMIC blocking airflow. I'm having this issue this summer also. If you have room setup two puller fans(like you did) or if you have to ty setting them up in front of rad as pushers.
 
Upvote0
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Dylaneclipse
  • Question
2G Overheated now it won't start.
Replies
5
Views
2K
AWD-Tony
AWD-Tony
SnowmanFD
  • Question
1G Car overheats when sitting still
Replies
5
Views
568
SnowmanFD
SnowmanFD
Eclipse5150x
  • Question
2G Car is overheating
Replies
11
Views
1K
avensis
  • Question
Engine still overheats
Replies
7
Views
712
DSM1G90
DSM1G90
Project97GST
  • Question
2G Mysterious Overheating
Replies
4
Views
1K
Project97GST
Project97GST
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top