If it ALMOST slipped off the crank then that means it never came off so it should be fine. I'm a little confused as to why you say there are 4 valves when there are 16?

If it ALMOST slipped off the crank then that means it never came off so it should be fine.

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The crank sprocket has a slit [keyway milled into it] on it that fits over a [Woodruff key installed in a hobbed-out half-circle in the nose of] raised part on the crank. This raised part on the crank does not go all the way to the end of the crank. The sproket slid past the raised part so it was still on the crank but not forced to spin when the crank would spin.

I'm a little confused as to why you say there are 4 valves when there are 16?

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I meant the 4 tops of the pistons because I checked 4 valves at a time when I filled them with parts cleaner.

Quicksilvergsx said:

The crank sproket has a slit on it that fits over a raised part on the crank. This raised part on the crank does not go all the way to the end of the crank. The sproket slid past the raised part so it was still on the crank but not forced to spin when the crank would spin.

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I see what you're saying... If you're not sure then I'd take it to a machine shop and get their advice rather then putting everything back together only to have to take it apart again.

With the head upside down, all the valves closed, and the bowl willed with a fluid, not leaking is a good thing. Pull the valves and check the stems for straightness. You should be good to go. Lap the valves while you have them out, and re-assemble. New timing belt and components, and get to boosting.

do yourself a favor and buy a vacuum gauge that's meant to thread into your plug hole. This is a tool most people never bother to buy, but can tell you quite a bit very quickly. Thread it in to the cylinder you're testing and remove all plug wires from other cylinders. Turn the motor over 3-4 times with the key(preferrably having someone else do this while you watch thr gauge under the hood). If the pressure stays put-you're good with that cylinder...move on to the next until you've checked them all. If you find one that has pressure drop, blow air into the plug hole with all four valves "closed". If you hear air coming through your intake-an intake valve(s) is bent. Through the exhaust-an exhaust valve(s) is bent.
Save yourself the burden of removing your cylinder head with this method.

9awd4g63tsi2 said:

do yourself a favor and buy a vacuum gauge that's meant to thread into your plug hole. This is a tool most people never bother to buy, but can tell you quite a bit very quickly. Thread it in to the cylinder you're testing and remove all plug wires from other cylinders. Turn the motor over 3-4 times with the key(preferrably having someone else do this while you watch thr gauge under the hood). If the pressure stays put-you're good with that cylinder...move on to the next until you've checked them all. If you find one that has pressure drop, blow air into the plug hole with all four valves "closed". If you hear air coming through your intake-an intake valve(s) is bent. Through the exhaust-an exhaust valve(s) is bent.

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You are describing (kinda) a compression and budget leak-down test.

9awd4g63tsi2 said:

Save yourself the burden of removing your cylinder head with this method.

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He already removed the head. See first sentence of post #1

Since at least 2 valves are (at least somewhat) open at all times, you would be very lucky if there were no bent stems assuming the crank turned and the cams didn't. It's possible I hear, but very lucky. I recommend bringing it to a head shop to have checked especially since you already have the head off (far better than putting the entire thing back together and then having a problem - you'll be kicking yourself). A stem might be bent smaller than you can notice - tell them what happened so they know what to look for.