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socalnicedude- where did you go? other than that hahaha i love my awd. we seriously got to stop pushing our cars so hard. i dont know how gavin does it man. LOL

Hah, never. Thats like never getting your car into boost. SOCALNICEDUDE- What happened:confused: Sorry to lose you on the run. Next time we'll have to exchange #'s. Keep us updated on that check engine light issue. Alex, sorry bout your car man.:cry: Try to get it back ASAP.
 
Hey its the way to go man. But really don't get worried about the check engine sign, its just something you going to expect when you get a boosted 2g eclipse. its probably something small. get the code from autozone and we can help u.
 
Wow. Mike had a check engine light on also. He didn't say what it was though. He does however have his honeycombs removed inside of his mass air flow sensor. Maybe you should check to see if your's are still there. (It really looks like a screen, in the shape of honeycombs).
 
I get that one all the time. Try unplugging the mass airflow sensor over night and plug it back in the morning. It can re-set your sensor. Or take out the negative side of the battery for 30 minutes and put it back on. It will take off the check engine light.
 
Yeah its wierd because I had the honeycomb off since I bought it and no idle problems. It just started after I put the bigger cone filter and it only idles bad after 20 minutes. I got to get a clamp for my intake to see if that helps. Oh we did the boost leak test and turned the crank 30 degrees and still only going to 3 psi. I even tried taking the dipstick out and still 3 psi. Took out the oil cap to listen, loud hissing. I read on the forums that its not supposed to leaking like that. #### it I'm taking it to Road Race Engineering sometime this week.
 
Aight I got the code today and its P1105. air fuel control asomething or other. Ledt me know your info. thanks crew

You might wanna stay open minded, but this is what I found:
Didn't see anything in"Haynes manual". But in "Chilton Manual" it says : P1105 Fuel pressure solenoid malfunction (turbo)
Definately look into this problem though. Your motor might depend on it.
 
Yeah its wierd because I had the honeycomb off since I bought it and no idle problems. It just started after I put the bigger cone filter and it only idles bad after 20 minutes. I got to get a clamp for my intake to see if that helps. Oh we did the boost leak test and turned the crank 30 degrees and still only going to 3 psi. I even tried taking the dipstick out and still 3 psi. Took out the oil cap to listen, loud hissing. I read on the forums that its not supposed to leaking like that. #### it I'm taking it to Road Race Engineering sometime this week.

Damn. Now you got me getting worried and confused. I heard of the 30 degrees, but dont know if it was before, dead on, or after 30 degrees- so I need to look more into that. I thought one way to do it was to just slowly turn the crank until the pressure starts to seal. (I would try that first before going to RRE.)
 
So is the meeting for this sunday at In-N-out? @ 10pm :rocks:

We'll be there. Unfortunately 1 DSM short:cry: :beatentodeath::notgood: :mad: Alex, you can roll wit me if you dont have a ride. If enough alot of cars show up I say we attempt to do the PIC thing at the 905 again, behind the warehouses.(The pic on my myspace was taken there:cool: , and thats where I thought we were gonna go.) Mike would have to be sure to bring his camera though:D . And lets leave early enough to have time to do it.
 
You might wanna stay open minded, but this is what I found:
Didn't see anything in"Haynes manual". But in "Chilton Manual" it says : P1105 Fuel pressure solenoid malfunction (turbo)
Definately look into this problem though. Your motor might depend on it.

I had the same thing before, the same exact code. Hahaha thats so ironic because your actually missing that solenoid Moses. Remember I was like what the? Wheres your fuel pressure solinoid? Yeah I had the same code and the mechanic just cleared it up and the cel never went on again. But the cost to replace it is 70 bucks from Mitsubishi if it worries you that much. That solinoid is useless. Heres a link to help you.

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/solenoids.htm

Its the green arrow. To be more specific "The right-most solenoid, marked with a green arrow, is the fuel pressure solenoid. This solenoid allows the engine control computer to temporarily raise the fuel pressure for hot starting purposes. This is accomplished by cutting off the vacuum hose going to the fuel pressure regulator. It is not used for anything else, but it can provide a useful tap-in point for a boost gauge, since the regulator "sees" the intake manifold pressure. (If you tapped your boost gauge in here, but it doesn't read any vacuum right after warm or hot starts, you probably connected to the wrong side of the solenoid.) "

Hope this helps. Just clear the code, trust me you'll be fine.
 
We'll be there. Unfortunately 1 DSM short:cry: :beatentodeath::notgood: :mad: Alex, you can roll wit me if you dont have a ride. If enough alot of cars show up I say we attempt to do the PIC thing at the 905 again, behind the warehouses.(The pic on my myspace was taken there:cool: , and thats where I thought we were gonna go.) Mike would have to be sure to bring his camera though:D . And lets leave early enough to have time to do it.

Oh you know I'm down to go, Ima bring my girl too, show her that we are chill compared to the hondas. We gotta cruise at 70 this time, so we don't get our cars taken away, no offense alex.

I didn't exactly turn it 30 degrees, But I turned it till I felt more pressure to turn it. So I stopped. I did so many boost leak test and same results. Going to RRE gives me a reason to get some Sonics.
 
thanks crew, mechanically i knew it was nothing, i figured it was an unstabil connection or something the our cars are getting old so thos little electrical things are bound to act wierd sooner or later. so that where you tap a REAL boost gauge huh? you guys will have to help me with that. thanks peeps
 
hey guys im gwtting a exhaust setup from greddy or rs-r 3" piping and im going to get a new o2 housing. what about those ones on ebay that are stainless and they have a atmospheric dump port. or is that going to make the car run way too loud and shuold i just find an evo 3. if i end up getting rs-r exhaust i think im going to go with a less of a can look. let me know.
 
hey guys im gwtting a exhaust setup from greddy or rs-r 3" piping and im going to get a new o2 housing. what about those ones on ebay that are stainless and they have a atmospheric dump port. or is that going to make the car run way too loud and shuold i just find an evo 3. if i end up getting rs-r exhaust i think im going to go with a less of a can look. let me know.

O2 dumps are loud. I wouldn't do it on a near stock daily driver. Check YouTube for the sund. The Evo 3 is a great upgrade, but the flange on the downpipe end is at an angle, so make sure to check the exhaust manufactures for fitment. I would rather find a ported 2g O2 housing. As far as ebay O2's I dont know...
 
i would have to disagree with that one and say exhaust will give you more than an intake, or just go ahead and get a K&N filter. BTW what parts did you buy socalnicedude? and moses i will take that ride, but most important who the heck am i gona ride with to mod now that my car went on vacation haha
 
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