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Jonathanlc05

15+ Year Contributor
103
1
May 3, 2006
Somewhere, Pennsylvania
which plugs/ wires would you recommend for a slightly tuned 420a?

also which type of gas should i use. i like premium cause its does better mileage but with prices the way they are im reconsidering
 
NGK-BKR5E Spark Plugs

Also, running premium gas won't give you better gas mileage. If you are NA, run whatever is cheapest in your area IMO.
 
Just a good set of wires will suffice. If you are a member on 2gnt.com you get a discount at ptuning.com and you can pick up a set of wires for a good price. Something to look into.
 
Jonathanlc05 said:
also which type of gas should i use. i like premium cause its does better mileage but with prices the way they are im reconsidering

Some myths about octane here: http://www.co.suffolk.ny.us/webtemp3.cfm?dept=3&id=2049
High CR, boost, or an aggressive ignition tune would require higher octane fuels by design. If you can actually notice a difference between premium and regular grades of fuel in your NT, you may have some serious carbon buildup. MCCC or Seafoam would help, in that case.
 
NGK-BKR5E Spark Plugs

Also, running premium gas won't give you better gas mileage. If you are NA, run whatever is cheapest in your area IMO.

NGK-BKR6E is the standard plug for the non turbo, unless your telling him to go one range hotter, you should specify.

Example: if you are turbo and looking for a good spark plug, I would suggest a NGK-BKR7E which is one range colder than the stock plug.
 
Seafoam would help

Locke, I've thought about using seafoam. All you do with it is run a vacuum line from the IM to the bottle of seafoam right, and let the car run till it clears everything out? If so, which hose from the manifold do you use? And you can find it at Advanced Auto or the like I assume?
 
NGK-BKR6E is the standard plug for the non turbo, unless your telling him to go one range hotter, you should specify.

Example: if you are turbo and looking for a good spark plug, I would suggest a NGK-BKR7E which is one range colder than the stock plug.

He said slightly tuned so I told him one range hotter.
 
Locke, I've thought about using seafoam. All you do with it is run a vacuum line from the IM to the bottle of seafoam right, and let the car run till it clears everything out? If so, which hose from the manifold do you use? And you can find it at Advanced Auto or the like I assume?

I used the PCV hose. You have to be careful, and modulate the amount of Seafoam you're sucking up. If you suck up too much at once the car will stall. Use about 1/3 to 1/2 of the can.

Turn the car off as soon as you're done and let it sit for 5-10min. Then, start her up, and drive around real aggressively for approximately 2-3 miles. A lot of thick smoke should blow out your exhaust.

I couldn't find it at Advance back in the day, but they might have it now. Autozone always carried it.
 
He said slightly tuned so I told him one range hotter.

Slightly tuned should take one range colder not hotter. The hotter plug will have a natural tendency to initiate knock sooner. This is a general rule although I've run stock heat range plugs into the 400 WHP range. I've owned a mildy tuned 420A and stock heat range was fine although I'd recommend a colder plug for a turbo application or high compression N/A

Thumbs up on the recommendation for a Seafoam treatment as well.
 
Well, there you have it.

If the OP's profile is up-to-date, I would just stick with stock heat range, unless his driving habits warrant the use of a colder plug. Read the plugs, and go from there.

I am personally considering using a hotter plug, as I am a pretty mellow commuter. I shift around 2500ish, maybe up to 5000ish to pass. I haven't seen red-line in a year or longer. Plugs don't fully foul, but do get pretty dirty.
 
Thanks Paul! I'm hoping to clean mine out with Seafoam soon.
 
Well, there you have it.

If the OP's profile is up-to-date, I would just stick with stock heat range, unless his driving habits warrant the use of a colder plug. Read the plugs, and go from there.

I am personally considering using a hotter plug, as I am a pretty mellow commuter. I shift around 2500ish, maybe up to 5000ish to pass. I haven't seen red-line in a year or longer. Plugs don't fully foul, but do get pretty dirty.

While on this topic, how would you read the plugs? What signs would suggest using a colder, hotter, or stock heat range?
 
I can think of alot of other things to assist with this tune up.

Cleaning IAC and MAP sensor. Cleaning and oiling your intake filter. Changing your fuel filter. Flush your coolant. Change your oil and filter. Check tire pressure.

I would say check the voltage to your fuel pump and all other sensors. But that's something outlandish I do too often. :shhh:
 
While on this topic, how would you read the plugs? What signs would suggest using a colder, hotter, or stock heat range?

Okay.

Rich = darker, oily type tips
Lean= scortched looking, possibly ashy tip. Tends to bare more metal. Light tanish.
 
WarSaw said:
While on this topic, how would you read the plugs? What signs would suggest using a colder, hotter, or stock heat range?

Plugs are self cleaning, but they have to be at the correct temperature for the cleaning process to happen. This is why we choose colder or hotter plugs.

If you often drive heavily, the plugs may be getting too hot, they will wear more quickly. Same symptoms as running lean, as Blitz pointed out. If you dont get your plugs up to their self-cleaning temperature, they will not be hot enough to burn the deposits off and foul quickly. They will have the same symptoms as would happen when running rich.

I drive my car way more gentle that would be expected of a DSM owner, and don't suspect my plugs spend much time at their proper temperature.
 
I drive my car way more gentle that would be expected of a DSM owner, and don't suspect my plugs spend much time at their proper temperature.


I'm with you Locke! My car sees boost (4-5 psi)maybe twice a week; if that. Since I've put the turbo on, I've never taken it past 6K, because I just don't know if I'll lean out on top yet. Until I get it tuned, I'm not risking my $10k motor!

Plus it's peace of mind when you DON'T beat the shit out it. The car becomes less prone to failures and damage.
 
Well, I'm glad that $10K went to good use... seriously, that's like buying a Ferrari just to keep it in the garage.
 
VelocitàPaola;151204496 said:
Well, I'm glad that $10K went to good use... seriously, that's like buying a Ferrari just to keep it in the garage.

I thought that is what most Ferrari owners did with their cars.

I'm with you Locke! My car sees boost (4-5 psi)maybe twice a week; if that. Since I've put the turbo on, I've never taken it past 6K, because I just don't know if I'll lean out on top yet. Until I get it tuned, I'm not risking my $10k motor!

Plus it's peace of mind when you DON'T beat the shit out it. The car becomes less prone to failures and damage.

A buddy had an old beat up carburated 80's chevy wagon. It pinged, knocked, clanked and dieseled from the first day he had it. He drove it for well over a year, and for whatever reason, decided to floor it once. Blew much of the engine out of the oil-pan.

So yeah, the probability of mechanical failure rises whenever you push the motor, old worn engine or fresh new engine alike.

Of course, my car runs about perfect, I am not really worried about all of that. I just don't have any urges to beat my car up. :) I think last year I may have brought it to redline once.



Back on topic:

Intake and exhaust will only free up a little power. Treat the car as stock, and use whatever you would use if you car was stock, as it basically still is.
 
VelocitàPaola;151204496 said:
Well, I'm glad that $10K went to good use... seriously, that's like buying a Ferrari just to keep it in the garage.

I am nowhere near putting it to use yet. No point in risking motor failure for 8 psi when it's going to see 20+ in the next 4-5 months. You of all people know my plans for the car. Just wait, you'll see (literally).. :shhh: :thumb:
 
VelocitàPaola;151204556 said:
And it's a damn shame... :|

+1


This is how it should be done.......and yes at that speed too....LOL:thumb:
 

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LOL 260mph better send you in the ocean... LOL

any wires you recommend and could someone post pics on how to do seafoam?
 
You shouldn't really need pics, but somebody might have taken pics. (???)

Squeeze the tube you are using to suck up the Seafoam with to modulate how much is going into the motor. Use pliers or something if you are using a tube you can't squeeze shut by hand. Really (really really) try to not let it stall out while you are doing this. If it does, start it back up immediately without the Seafoam. When it starts, continue with the treatment.

Just follow Paul's (VelocitàPaola's) instructions. It is pretty difficult to screw up. It usually helps quite a bit on worn engines. Lots-O-Smoke! Enjoy.
 
Jonathan, I just bought a can of Seafoam yesterday and I am about to go out and use in a few minutes. I plan to use the PCV as Paul said, but I'm going to stick a vacuum reducer in the end of it to regulate how much gets sucked in rather than pinching the tube with pliers. I'll take a picture or two and post it on here once I'm done... probably by 1:30pm EST.
 
Vacuum reducer? Pliers? This is getting more complicated than it should be. Just don't dip the end of the tube too far into the can. You'll get a feel for it right away; it's not difficult.
 
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