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Car wont start

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noluck

Probationary Member
24
0
Feb 1, 2007
Atlanta, Georgia
My buddy put in some new RC 550's in my car. Ran fine for a week. On the way home it started to run really rough and I was lucky that I was close to my house. I checked under the hood for something and thr first thing I noticed was the vaccum hose going to the fpr slipped off! Since I put the hose back on, It would start up but still ran like crap. Could not drive it at all. Sounded like a old V8, rumpidy, rumpidy, rump. Now it wont start at all. I have checked the following: Timming belt, coil pack, sparkplugs. Oh yes, I forgot, I had an check engine light code, but it is ussually for having an test pipe and a different friend maybe I should unhook my batt to reset the car after hooking up the vac hose to the fpr. Anyhelp would be great.:thumb:
 
definitely unhook the battery and reset the ECU its possible its running like crap now because it was trying to 'fix' what was originally wrong.. but i think your problem may lie elsewhere. check all your vac hoses and maybe do a boost test. does it sound like your down a cylinder? is everything sparking properly? pull that code if you can, it might not be worth anything but who knows.
 
If it happened after the install job, chances are it has something to do with the injectors. Did your friend or you reuse the old o-rings for the injectors? If you did, they're probably hard and brittle and are causing some serious boost leaks.

Check for leaks, check for base fuel pressure (if you're running an afpr), check to see that all of your injector clips are plugged in, check your fuel filter, check your fuel filter lines, check your vacuum lines, check ignition coil plug is plugged in, check resistor pack is plugged in, etc.
 
I can smell the gas when I am turning over the engine. The engine will not run. I have checked all plug wires. Can I still get a code after disconnecting the battery?
 
If the problem persists the code will return. If you can start the car it is most likely the code will come up. If you can still get it now then do. The ECU's are fairly adaptive and will compensate for some air/fuel problems. I drove home with an I/C pipe blown off and I had to reset the ECU to get it to run right (once I fixed the pipe). Also check the injector harneses make sure all the electrical items are clean and connected properly.
 
I know its a shot in the dark, but double check you don't have the spark plug wires mixed up... I've done it, you will get fuel and spark but it wont catch, just double check it... its simple enough to overlook.
 
If the Crank angle sensor is anything like the Cam angle sensor the car will start and then just die. I just went through the CamAS and it started and then died. Also did any other line slip off or there are a few wires and connectors under the fpr area did you check those? Have you tried putting the stock injectors back on? You know just for s**ts and giggles.
 
when you crank it does the tach moves ??
 
why would it drive perfect for a week and then drive crappy, then not start at all?
 
by the way it will not start at all, the engine will turn over so my starter is working.
 
Did you reset your ECU by unplugging the battery yet? I would try to pull the code just in case it isn't the test pipe. You should check if your injectors are actually spraying, and if they aren't it could be a cam or crank sensor. Another good check is if you have a logger you can see if you are getting a signal from your cam sensor or crank sensor.
 
unfortunately I did unplug the battery. Can I still get a code? I do have a test pipe, so I always have a code. I thought I fixed the problem by reattching the vac hose going to the fpr, then disconecting the batt. Now I have no codes and the engine needs to be driven to repeat the cycle? right?
 
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