Im in the process of trying to make 500hp to the wheels on a 1g fwd. If I can get around 450 to 475 Ill be happy. Im starting from the bottom. I have already gotten the block done. I have manley rods, ross racing pistons 8:5.1, acl race bearings. apr main and head studs, and removed balance shaft. Im taking the head tomorrow to get springs, retainers, ss valves, a 3 angel valve job, port and polished, and revised lifters, but Im kinda stuck on what turbo and what injectors to use and what size I should go with. Could any one point me in the right direction? Also, I will be using this as my daily driver.

Thank You

If it's gonna be your daily i would go with a turbo with twin ball bearing center section.

First off, heres a link to the tech: http://dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=1gtupgrades
You should do everything it says in there first. Make sure you plan accordingly. Your not gonna want to start off with an safc2 and 550 injectors, because that would be pointless to getting you there. I would highly recommend getting Dsm Link for your tuning device right off the bat. If money is an issue then getting to 500 hp is going to be near impossible. You will definetely need an upgraded transmission, becasue the one in our cars are junk. I recommend TRE or SHEP becasue both are well known and proven. I think 850cc injectors would be good to give you some good working room, and probably a 255 fuel pump and FPR(fuel pressure regulator).

Just do your research and planning before going out and buying something. Keep a good budget and dont always think brand name parts are the way to good, that not always the truth. That could end up saving you alot of money. Just follow the tech, it is well proven and will keep you from blowing that nicely built engin of yours. Keep in mind the tune is going to get you to the hp you want.

BB turbos yield 15% quicker spool... So say a 56 trim spools at 4500 rpms, that 15% sooner isn't that much more "streetable". I have a DD with a "slow spooler", and I don't mind.The best thing about bb turbos is their durability! I believe that's the main reason for Formula One racecars having them.

Your hot side (turbine) is your main concern here. Many compressors deliver the results you want:

50 trim (at the very limit)
60-1
56 trim
Even RayPeters got a 18G to flow enough for 460 awhp. Theres more.

But we have small displacement engines so to yield an kind of usable boost on the street we have to mind our hotsides and get a small a/r housing and/or small turbine wheel. Yet, if you do this you will limit how much gasses your setup will ultimately exhaust. This will limit how much you can intake and consequently how much torque and horsepower you produce.

Big laggy hot side = 500+hp

Nitrous can get one around this however. Also a stroker setup. or building the head and raising the revlimit and keeping her in the power band.

Good advice, just think you should rephrase this sentence,...

Even RayPeters got a 18G to flow enough for 460 awhp.

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...to say -RayPeters even got a 18G to flow... -etc.

Ray's quite an intelligent and talented man.

Oh, man. No I don't want anyone to think such things. Ray is a masterful back yard engineer! He's done a great job w/ several machines!

Make sure not to go with an safc2 no matter the injectors you will not be able to reach 500 whp on just an safc2 an logger. You will need to go dsmlink, aem, or even megasquirt although im not a fan of it. Also i would not suggest a 50 trim because it will be nearly impossible for oyu to reach your goals. With the right set up a 56 might make for a good street 500 whp, but be prepared to maybe still fall a tiny bit short without a stroker. I'm with the big laggy turbo to reach over 500whp. Also im no expert, but if you are doing all this why dont you just get a 5 angle valve job instead of a three? I would personally go with http://slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=6125&cat=4752&page=1

if you're looking for 500whp on a dynojet...i say get a gt30r. that will net the power you want, with a tiny bit of room to grow. i'll have dyno sheets to prove it soon

injectors: do it once, go with either PTE or FIC, 1000cc

tune with dsmlink or aem

A GT30R is a great turbo and very streetable. I would suggest a GT35R though just because 500whp is at the top of the GT30R hp range. The 35R will give you some room to grow if you want it and spool isn't terrible. I run a GT3582R on my daily driver.

bob123131 said:

Make sure not to go with an safc2 no matter the injectors you will not be able to reach 500 whp on just an safc2 an logger. You will need to go dsmlink, aem, or even megasquirt although im not a fan of it. Also i would not suggest a 50 trim because it will be nearly impossible for oyu to reach your goals. With the right set up a 56 might make for a good street 500 whp, but be prepared to maybe still fall a tiny bit short without a stroker. I'm with the big laggy turbo to reach over 500whp. Also im no expert, but if you are doing all this why dont you just get a 5 angle valve job instead of a three? I would personally go with http://slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=6125&cat=4752&page=1

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hearsay is not needed on this forum.. you can make 500whp with a safc and logger.. is it the best and safest way? nope probably not, but it can be done.. do i reccomend it? nope, dsmlink is the way to go.

Burnett03 said:

hearsay is not needed on this forum.. you can make 500whp with a safc and logger.. is it the best and safest way? nope probably not, but it can be done.. do i reccomend it? nope, dsmlink is the way to go.

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Not saying it can't be done... but I'm just curious, how would you go about making 500whp with only an SAFC for tuning? Fuel demands for that much power would mean a large injector, at least 800ish to keep IDC below 90%, so the SAFC's MAS offset would cause huge timing advance and likely uncontrollable knock. Also the bigger the injector, the larger the injector dead time, so your idle/low throttle gets pretty difficult to tune.

I am skeptical it can be done with a piggyback like the SAFC. -Maybe if you can retard the base timing just enough to not completely kill the low end or create retard related knock.

delta448 said:

Not saying it can't be done... but I'm just curious, how would you go about making 500whp with only an SAFC for tuning? Fuel demands for that much power would mean a large injector, at least 800ish to keep IDC below 90%, so the SAFC's MAS offset would cause huge timing advance and likely uncontrollable knock. Also the bigger the injector, the larger the injector dead time, so your idle/low throttle gets pretty difficult to tune.

I am skeptical it can be done with a piggyback like the SAFC. -Maybe if you can retard the base timing just enough to not completely kill the low end or create retard related knock.

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There are ways of fighting the timing advance. He has a 1G head and cas, right? He can retard his base timing. He'll have sluggish off idle and otherwise all closed loop operation. But nevertheless, it's not too difficult to overcome. I do not recommend it either...

As well, his deadtimes will monkey w/ his brain as injectors large enough for sucha fuel demand would in deed have very high dead times. Another reason for a more complete fuel management upgrade. However, others have done it and even if he could never get a great "drive around town" tune. Dead times seam not to affect WOT or higher airflow runs (like at the track). . . I do believe that a few around here do have daily drivers at near or above that hp level w/ a simple safc. . .

More importantly. . . 1slowlaser, your stock maf will never get you to such a level w/out overrunning terribly. This is an engine killer. Overrunning the maf causes it to skip counts and tricks your ecu into running extemely lean during a WOT/high flow pull. You will melt pistons or atleast kill head gaskets LONG before you get to 500 hp airflows. You'll need to ditch the maf, or research Al Blaha. . . But I doubt even a 1G maf modified like Al Blaha could take you to such a level and give you an easy-to-commute vehicle.

Not to argue with dsm onster since im sure you know ten times more about it than me, but i highly doubt many are running 500whp on an awd with just an safc. Also even if they are for the money he is already talking about spending it would be ridiculous to not spend that extra 400 diff between an safc 2 and logger vs dsmlink. The issues it will cause with timing are enormous and the harm any non extremely experienced dsmer could cause is not even close to worth it. If is truly experienced enough to safely build a set up like this then he could just go with megasquirt and not end up spending much more than safc2 and logger.

bob123131 said:

Not to argue with dsm onster since im sure you know ten times more about it than me, but i highly doubt many are running 500whp on an awd with just an safc. Also even if they are for the money he is already talking about spending it would be ridiculous to not spend that extra 400 diff between an safc 2 and logger vs dsmlink. The issues it will cause with timing are enormous and the harm any non extremely experienced dsmer could cause is not even close to worth it. If is truly experienced enough to safely build a set up like this then he could just go with megasquirt and not end up spending much more than safc2 and logger.

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Oh, to clarify, I am by no means recommending an SAFC alone. It's just simply possible. And if it's possible someone here's done it. That's a foregone conclusion I've drawn. It is cheap but unreliable. What's the old rule? . . .Cheap, fast, reliable; pick two.

I do truely praise and recommend dsmlink. This has been my most prized and satisfying upgrade I have ever purchased. Don't forget to fork over another 150-300 bones for an e-prom ecu. . . Research how to get a 92-94 ecu into a 90-91 car if you come across one for cheaper than a 90-91 ecu (highly likely).

Another option get just the eprom ecu and a used ebay safcII. Burn the chip for base settings (for deadtime remedies, your choice of timing advance, NLTS, als, etc.), then fine tune at a dyno or track w/ safcII.