i have the EXACT problem, if i figure it out man, ill let you know!

wow, we should start a club because i have that same problem too. i can hear the solenoid click but the actuators wont unlock or lock the doors. its like they got worn out, because i can see the lock on the handle move the littlest bit and you can feel it if you put your finger on it. almost like the little door lock that couldnt.

I'm having the same problem, my passenger side will lock/unlock but the drivers side won't.

Wow, I have also had the same problem for the past 3 years... Even paid a body shop to fix it when I first bought this car. Only lasted for little and then my driver's side broke again!

kevint427 said:

wow, we should start a club because i have that same problem too. i can hear the solenoid click but the actuators wont unlock or lock the doors. its like they got worn out, because i can see the lock on the handle move the littlest bit and you can feel it if you put your finger on it. almost like the little door lock that couldnt.

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exactly my problem when u push unlock i can hear it tick but lock makes no noise.. im lost to what it could be

i figured it out........its the curse of the dsm!!!!!!!! well i took apart everything under my dash because thats where i heard the infamous "clicking" from, and when i hit the door locks again to hear the clicking better, i could not hear anything. i think i am going to ditch the locks altogether and weld the doors closed. i like getting in the car nascar style anyways!

If I recall correctly theres a relay in where the radio sits. Its down toward the bottom and a little more toward the passenger side. I'm pretty sure thats where the clicking is coming from, might be worth looking into. I'm still trying to remember because I haven't been in there in a while and I sold my car but I think there are two relays side by side. I don't know maybe someone else can help out a little more.

kevint427 said:

i figured it out........its the curse of the dsm!!!!!!!! well i took apart everything under my dash because thats where i heard the infamous "clicking" from, and when i hit the door locks again to hear the clicking better, i could not hear anything. i think i am going to ditch the locks altogether and weld the doors closed. i like getting in the car nascar style anyways!

Click to expand...

yep i have the clicking by the radio tooooo

Try rekeying your remote entry?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221223&highlight=remote+entry

Also:

Common.... Common problem... there are so many people out there with this problem.. ive studied it for awhile now... ive heard that the tar that holds on the clear peice of plastic behind the panel gets in the arms that the locks lock by and make them sticky so the dont work and ive heard that actuators in the doors go bad... ever have any problem with the grinding... because thats what mine did... so i replaced the actuator and it worked for a bit and then stopped working again... so now im just going to get aftermarket actuators and install them instead.. ill make sure take pictures and note for wires during the install.

From what ive heard new factory actuators cost around 200 a peice so the aftermarket ones are wayyy cheaper at $20 a pop.

If anyone is having a problem with it drawing on their battery like crazy its the door locks also... i had the same problem and pulled my door lock fuse and everything kept a charge... so thats a temp. fix until they get fixed for good.

for a 97 eclipse its Mitsu #MR199135 (Left hand~$ 145.29), MR199136 (right hand~$ 133.38) case any one is interested for door latch assembly (#6) in diagrams above.

Hmmmm... best bets might be to just dissassemble it ALL and then break out the elbow grease and clean and re-lube everything. Aftermarket solenoids might be better if they are stronger, too. Question is, how will they fit up?

slipstream808 said:

Hmmmm... best bets might be to just dissassemble it ALL and then break out the elbow grease and clean and re-lube everything. Aftermarket solenoids might be better if they are stronger, too. Question is, how will they fit up?

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has anyone tried swapping relays to fix this at all?

I would stick to the actuators if I were you guys. Countless threads....even a tech article.

v2ner said:

I would stick to the actuators if I were you guys. Countless threads....even a tech article.

Click to expand...

but both at the same time out of nowhere?

Any update on this i have the same question

dont hate on my car cause it doesnt have the problem, but i do feel all ## pain

I just bought my dsm and i also noticed that being a problem. I can't even unlock the drivers side door with the key. But i hear a clicking noise too and only the passenger door unlocks but doesn't lock. How about all us dsm owners storm in Mitsu at the same time they might make it a recall hahhaha.

I just changed mine a week ago. I took it all apart. I had the door latch assembly (part #6 in post 10) in my hand and plugged it back in to the car door harness. When i pressed the unlock switch the latch tried to unlock the door. When that happened i noticed the motor in the asembly (part #6 in post 10) glow a bright orang color. I took the entire unit apart cleaned the motor regreased everything. I even unsoldered the motor and took it out and used dieelectrical grease. ( i used to race RC cars ) sanded and cleaned all brushes, contacts and the copper part of the armature. Put it all back together and the motor still was shot when i tested it. I purchased a new door latch assembly from the classifieds. i tested it on the driver door. when it was all connected the doors both unlocked like new. i cleaned it, greased it all up and put it back together. Now it works great.

The problem was it shorted and fried the wires in the armature. When it was in the car it seemd to cause both doors to never lock properly. Once i fixed the driver side the passenger side worked great. I could not take a chance. So i took the pasenger side out and cleaned and greased it as well. it was starting to bind because the old grease was getting real hard.

if you unplug one door (part #6 in post 10) and try the lock, you can see the other lock if it works or not. when i did that the driverside door was disconnected the passenger door lock was working great. as soon as the driver side latch was reconnected the doors did not work at all.

Works like new.

i used lithium grease on all moving parts.

What about replacing the relays?

alot of ppl are saying that replacing them both might work, give it a shot and post it so everyone knows if that works or not

I never had a relay go bad. Maybe the contacts or terminals get a little corrosion on them. cleaned conectors regreased them with electrical grease.

Well i took it that if the relax is clicking, both of them, that they are bad

Having the same problem... or should i say been HAVING the same problem. Relays are easy to replace... please tell me its the relays.