DSM-Talon-John said:

if it caused fuel cut your gonna have reset your computer by detacthing the negative terminal for 30 seconds after you fix it, I believe so anyways.

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The more fuel cut you hit within a given amount of time, the more the ECU lowers the air flow threshold so it's definitely a good idea to reset the ECU.

good ole octane value and mits safety measures!!! what are your plugs gapped at by chance and what rpm is this happening at? i used to get that at 5k rpm checked for boost leaks and then I regapped my plugs and stuff and it went away but you really need more fuel like a pump and rewire to run a 16g i would also suggest at least 550cc injectors and a(n) safc

I'm getting fuel cut. Here is a list of mods to help you create a solution. Just give me some ideas.

K&N filter
Injen Intake
3" Cat-back
3" Downpipe
New fuel filter
Cleaned throttle body
Removed wgs nipple/restrictor
Platinum spark plugs (very stupid, but don't think this is creating problem / getting NGK's)

Did you do a boost leak test yet? It's probably the number one cause of fuel cut.

I would definitely do as stated above and do a boost leak test.

I would also get those NGKs in there ASAP.

Are you sure that its fuel cut that you are experiencing, or is it more of a stumbling?

Nope it's fuel cut. I am going to do a boost leak check and get ngk's on monday. I am also going to take out bottom honeycomb and see if it helps because I am running rich.

What you say about it running rich also supports the boost leak idea of MrBoxx above.

A boost leak test should show your problem. You might want to hold off on taking the lower honeycomb out until you have done a pressure test, as fixing the leak should also help the running rich symptom.

If you do the pressure test and find nothing and or fix a leak, and it still runs rich, then take the honeycomb out.

I dont think your hitting fuel cut? Whats your version of fuel cut?

Probably boost leak if that supports the running rich theory.

So i found that my car as an exhaust leak, it was the headers, i got that fixed, now when ever i boost fast my car turns off and some light tunrs on (looks like the back of a nickle) and i have to turn my car on again to get it going..... im going to replace my 50trim for a 14b, is this a good idea? im looking for a car that is fast enough to kill hondas and some v8s but still pass a smog test in cali

You need some fuel brotha...Get the 14B on then buy shit in the order it appears on the upgrade path...if you already have it skip it and go to the next step. Better yet if your in school or college and need this car to commute, put it on hold untill you graduate so when you blow something up you dont fail because you dont have a ride to class.

Get 14B
Follow path
play it safe

I have only bolt ons everything else is stock.
I have K&N FIPK filter
Injen look-alike intake
Greddy Rs BOV
Removed WGS restrictor
3" cat-back and downpipe

What kind of fuel system should I look towards if I'm running 13-15 psi of boost or what can I do to fix the problem? As of now I rewired my fuel pump and put on a new fuel filter. Try to keep in cheap only in high school .

-Kyle

The most common cause for fuel cut is a boost leak.

You should start off by doing a boost leak test.

diablos991 said:

The most common cause for fuel cut is a boost leak.

You should start off by doing a boost leak test.

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Exactly.

Fuel Cut is caused by airflow and has nothing to do with fuel. The only way you could be flowing that much air is with a boost leak.

Ok i just got my kinked exhaust fixed today. I got a MBC from my buddy. I keep adjusting the MBC and its not doing anything it still creeps the wird thing is that it dosen't creep in 1st only in second and higher. I dont kno what to do

Did it creep before the MBC install? what size exhaust do you have? Also you did not ask a question about fuel cut, what did you need to know?

For creep to appear in 2nd gear and not 1st is completely normal. This is caused by an increase in engine load.

Well i have 3in all the way back from o2 and it gets fuel cut when it creeps over 14 psi at like 4200 rpm's. the Boost is building boost way too fast goes right from 2 to 14 like nothing.

Ok this is easy. Same thing happened to me when I first put on my exhaust. First, decide how much money you want to spend and what your goal is. Easiest.. and cheapest to try would be to port your turbine housing at the wastegate. Or... get a bigger flapper and port the wastegate while you change it. Or.. just get an external wastegate. thats going from cheapest to most expensive but also most reliable for fixing it. Porting you have about a 35% chance to fix it with just a port job.. about 75% chance with a bigger wastegate and a 100% chance with an external wastegate.. assuming its large enough. This is based on what ive seen.

You can of course read what causes this in many threads posted.. ive already explained it many times so its out there.

One more thing.. get it fixed quickly if you want to boost.. and do your best NOT to let it spool up to fuel cut as you will blow your head gasket very soon doing that.

Wow i diden't know that about creep actualy when i run my car hard i let it run for like 2 min and shut it off and the fluid in the overflow starts boiling and comming out. but not rapidly just slow.

i would recomend getteing the external wastegate it helps get rid of boost creep on like the others were there is a good chance that it will come back. fuel cut could be because your pushing more boost then the stock injectores can handle i dont know about the over flow thats just wierd

If you port the turbo correctly it will cure your problem with boost creep. I have no creep with full 3inch exhuast.

Well would it be worth it to run an external gate on a stock 14b. Or could i run like an 02 dump i just want to get this problem solved and i think i have air in my cooling system.

You can if you want, but I would just port the turbo. It should only cost like $40 at a machine shop and make sure they know mitsu turbos. You could ship it to a shop or look how to do it yourself.