SkinnyBAM
15+ Year Contributor
- 203
- 2
- Oct 22, 2005
-
Paradise Valley,
Arizona
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Its got like a muddy texture but it all rubs off. And to the guy who said antifreeze wouldnt do that over 5 years, its not only antifreeze thats in coolant and plus, whats the worst thats going to happen if I run it like this? Its going to get to rediculously hot tempertures and ill shut it off as soon as this happens, ill tell you guys you were right, and start looking for a new block.ALLBoostAWD said:looks to me like someone thought it would have been a good idea to use the Dex-Cool Antifreeze (Orange 100K). If you car was not made from that particular antifreze, stuff like that can happen. Sorry man. If that is the case then the entire cooling system is jacked.
I have seen people do this before, but never this bad.
Does it rub off or is it actually built up to the point were it feels like rust?
95talon_in_ma said:Tell me after you detected this (or even before) you at least dropped the Oil pan to see it's condition. If the water was this bad, ya never know what inside the motor looked like. It would suck to start it up and hear a huge knock...
dr1665 said:If it goes on you, I have a spare 6-bolt in my garage
I like the way you think, most people on these forums will automatically jump to a rebuild or just a new engine....a few months ago I put a picture up of one of my cylinder walls that had a little rust and right away everyone told me to get it bored and put in bigger pistons, instead I went to checker, got some 600 grit sandpaper and went at it. When I was done the wall was as smooth as all the others. Now I understand everyone trying to do things the "right way" but im 18 years old and do not have a lot of money or time, so when there are alternatives to the expensive route im going to take them.crankbender said:Here is all I have to say...from somewhere else. This assumes the oil/pistons/pan/cylinders look good.
A cooling system problem will not immediately blow the engine......
At worst he gets no coolant flow and the temps never stabalize...much easier to try it and see if you can get the system flowing.
Clean it all out and put it back together. Pull the upper radiator hose from the radiator and hang over the front of the car. Put the water hose in the radiator and turn it on. Once the radiator is full (flused already before assembly) start the car. At idle you won't hurt the car with water flow and the pump may just blow all the gunk out.....
This seems much easier than a new engine block and internals.
We are talking about like 3 hours including the timing belt change. And if it doesn't work what is the harm? You will NOT hurt anything in the engine or car if you don't overheat it.
Hell I have driven my DSM with no coolant (bought it with a bad bad bad leaking water pump) just keep the temps down and you are fine for a test drive so some idling will not hurt it.
It is very possible that the impeller or housing on the water pump was made of a material what was anotic to the block and corroded saving the block!!!
I have to say I am a bit disappointed in most of the people in this thread. I know I havn't been around for a few months (like 9-15) but the DSM community was NOT built on bolt ons and prissy building. Back in the day we would make ANYTHING run...that was the beauty of DSMs.
Don't be afraid to try something and take a shot at it. Understand what harms what and where you will have problems. Teach yourself something along the way and save that money for a turbo instead of a block...or maybe new pistons (depending on the dents). If you are looking at a total engine rebuild and there is little chance of hurting the head significantly (anyone can replace valves for almost nothing if you have minor dinging) try something. Heck the old mantra in the 14b stock car race was "lower compression numbers mean you can turn up the boost!!!"
Forge ahead and beat a new path. If nothing else you will learn something along the way and be better off.
Never fear to do something just because most people won't. Make them tell you exactly why...opinions are like..........
Do me a favor and hold onto that for a few weeks. Unlike these other guys who want it I dont have a running dsm yetdr1665 said:If it goes on you, I have a spare 6-bolt in my garage up off 19th Ave and the 101. It's still got the head on it and I know it had coolant/water in the cylinders for a while in northern New Mexico before I picked it up. This will need machining and a rebuild, but it's an option just in case. If you opt for the $500 rebuild (steal, imo), that's cool, but I figured I would offer since I'm local.
Good luck to you, man.