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2G Holy **** look at this!! Just pulled my water pump

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SkinnyBAM

15+ Year Contributor
203
2
Oct 22, 2005
Paradise Valley, Arizona
So im in the middle of doing a timing belt job before cranking her up for the first time, pull the water pump and heres whats there

What do I do? Obviously theres no point of me putting the new water pump on
 

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looks to me like someone thought it would have been a good idea to use the Dex-Cool Antifreeze (Orange 100K). If you car was not made from that particular antifreze, stuff like that can happen. :notgood: Sorry man. If that is the case then the entire cooling system is jacked.

I have seen people do this before, but never this bad.

Does it rub off or is it actually built up to the point were it feels like rust?
 
ALLBoostAWD said:
looks to me like someone thought it would have been a good idea to use the Dex-Cool Antifreeze (Orange 100K). If you car was not made from that particular antifreze, stuff like that can happen. :notgood: Sorry man. If that is the case then the entire cooling system is jacked.

I have seen people do this before, but never this bad.

Does it rub off or is it actually built up to the point were it feels like rust?
Its got like a muddy texture but it all rubs off. And to the guy who said antifreeze wouldnt do that over 5 years, its not only antifreeze thats in coolant and plus, whats the worst thats going to happen if I run it like this? Its going to get to rediculously hot tempertures and ill shut it off as soon as this happens, ill tell you guys you were right, and start looking for a new block.
 
Wait now. If it rubs off and it's not a big issue, then just get the block cleaned. Just make SURE the stuff rubs off no problem, and that you will be able to see normal coolant jacket/water pump parts.

If you want to, you could try to flush it. Only if though, in your opinion, the water pressure will remove that stuff as easily as you do by hand. If it doesn't, it's not worth it.

There's nothing wrong though with running it and seeing what happens. At worst, the engine goes. In that case it was ###### screwed anyways.
 
Yea i actually already cleaned it and ran water through it until it came out clear and the new pump is on...I wish I would have taken pictures, after I cleaned it you would never had been able to tell it was there
 
If it goes on you, I have a spare 6-bolt in my garage up off 19th Ave and the 101. It's still got the head on it and I know it had coolant/water in the cylinders for a while in northern New Mexico before I picked it up. This will need machining and a rebuild, but it's an option just in case. If you opt for the $500 rebuild (steal, imo), that's cool, but I figured I would offer since I'm local.

Good luck to you, man. :thumb:
 
HEHE I think I'm gonna get that shortblock for me :D
 
Here is a cheap way to remove the rust out of your block.

First do this...

There is a pulley on the bottom end on the righ side of the engine. Grab a wrench and try to crank over the engine. See if it smooth or not, wheather it turns at all!

After that, remove all the oil from the engine!

Then soak the thing in Marvin Mystery Oil, My engine was hydrolocked for about two weeks, it wouldnt crank by the wrench method. I soaked it in Mystery Oil for 4 hours and it cranked over. Due to lack of time and all Mystery Oil has been in there for almost two months. But each and everytime I crank the cat by the wrnch it gets smoother!

I say If I were you, spend $10 get the oil fill the sucker up and wait 1-2 weeks.

After the first week, I would crank it everyday. Last day of the week, try to drain out the oil, and blow the rust out....air compressor and tool.

Then add regualr oil and start th sucker up. Your engine is going to smoke first (due to the Marbin Mystery Oil). All the rsut that is left inside your engine will exhuast. These peices are minute in size so they won't hurt your engine!

Just an idea while you find a new block.
 
Tell me after you detected this (or even before) you at least dropped the Oil pan to see it's condition. If the water was this bad, ya never know what inside the motor looked like. It would suck to start it up and hear a huge knock...
 
95talon_in_ma said:
Tell me after you detected this (or even before) you at least dropped the Oil pan to see it's condition. If the water was this bad, ya never know what inside the motor looked like. It would suck to start it up and hear a huge knock...


Somethigs are good to be true. When you get a good deal on a dsm there is always a catch. Exseciall when you get one that was donated? Who in their right mind would donate a TURBOED DSM?
 
dr1665 said:
If it goes on you, I have a spare 6-bolt in my garage

I wouldn't mind having a spare 6-bolt. Actually, I've been looking for one to start my next project. I've also been looking for a huge sack of money for my next project. Wanna help me out with either? :sneaky:

Oh, and BTW, New Mexico sucks. ;)
 
Here is all I have to say...from somewhere else. This assumes the oil/pistons/pan/cylinders look good.

A cooling system problem will not immediately blow the engine......

At worst he gets no coolant flow and the temps never stabalize...much easier to try it and see if you can get the system flowing.

Clean it all out and put it back together. Pull the upper radiator hose from the radiator and hang over the front of the car. Put the water hose in the radiator and turn it on. Once the radiator is full (flused already before assembly) start the car. At idle you won't hurt the car with water flow and the pump may just blow all the gunk out.....

This seems much easier than a new engine block and internals.

We are talking about like 3 hours including the timing belt change. And if it doesn't work what is the harm? You will NOT hurt anything in the engine or car if you don't overheat it.

Hell I have driven my DSM with no coolant (bought it with a bad bad bad leaking water pump) just keep the temps down and you are fine for a test drive so some idling will not hurt it.

It is very possible that the impeller or housing on the water pump was made of a material what was anotic to the block and corroded saving the block!!!

I have to say I am a bit disappointed in most of the people in this thread. I know I havn't been around for a few months (like 9-15) but the DSM community was NOT built on bolt ons and prissy building. Back in the day we would make ANYTHING run...that was the beauty of DSMs.

Don't be afraid to try something and take a shot at it. Understand what harms what and where you will have problems. Teach yourself something along the way and save that money for a turbo instead of a block...or maybe new pistons (depending on the dents). If you are looking at a total engine rebuild and there is little chance of hurting the head significantly (anyone can replace valves for almost nothing if you have minor dinging) try something. Heck the old mantra in the 14b stock car race was "lower compression numbers mean you can turn up the boost!!!"

Forge ahead and beat a new path. If nothing else you will learn something along the way and be better off.
Never fear to do something just because most people won't. Make them tell you exactly why...opinions are like..........
 
crankbender said:
Here is all I have to say...from somewhere else. This assumes the oil/pistons/pan/cylinders look good.

A cooling system problem will not immediately blow the engine......

At worst he gets no coolant flow and the temps never stabalize...much easier to try it and see if you can get the system flowing.

Clean it all out and put it back together. Pull the upper radiator hose from the radiator and hang over the front of the car. Put the water hose in the radiator and turn it on. Once the radiator is full (flused already before assembly) start the car. At idle you won't hurt the car with water flow and the pump may just blow all the gunk out.....

This seems much easier than a new engine block and internals.

We are talking about like 3 hours including the timing belt change. And if it doesn't work what is the harm? You will NOT hurt anything in the engine or car if you don't overheat it.

Hell I have driven my DSM with no coolant (bought it with a bad bad bad leaking water pump) just keep the temps down and you are fine for a test drive so some idling will not hurt it.

It is very possible that the impeller or housing on the water pump was made of a material what was anotic to the block and corroded saving the block!!!

I have to say I am a bit disappointed in most of the people in this thread. I know I havn't been around for a few months (like 9-15) but the DSM community was NOT built on bolt ons and prissy building. Back in the day we would make ANYTHING run...that was the beauty of DSMs.

Don't be afraid to try something and take a shot at it. Understand what harms what and where you will have problems. Teach yourself something along the way and save that money for a turbo instead of a block...or maybe new pistons (depending on the dents). If you are looking at a total engine rebuild and there is little chance of hurting the head significantly (anyone can replace valves for almost nothing if you have minor dinging) try something. Heck the old mantra in the 14b stock car race was "lower compression numbers mean you can turn up the boost!!!"

Forge ahead and beat a new path. If nothing else you will learn something along the way and be better off.
Never fear to do something just because most people won't. Make them tell you exactly why...opinions are like..........
I like the way you think, most people on these forums will automatically jump to a rebuild or just a new engine....a few months ago I put a picture up of one of my cylinder walls that had a little rust and right away everyone told me to get it bored and put in bigger pistons, instead I went to checker, got some 600 grit sandpaper and went at it. When I was done the wall was as smooth as all the others. Now I understand everyone trying to do things the "right way" but im 18 years old and do not have a lot of money or time, so when there are alternatives to the expensive route im going to take them.
 
dr1665 said:
If it goes on you, I have a spare 6-bolt in my garage up off 19th Ave and the 101. It's still got the head on it and I know it had coolant/water in the cylinders for a while in northern New Mexico before I picked it up. This will need machining and a rebuild, but it's an option just in case. If you opt for the $500 rebuild (steal, imo), that's cool, but I figured I would offer since I'm local.

Good luck to you, man. :thumb:
Do me a favor and hold onto that for a few weeks. Unlike these other guys who want it I dont have a running dsm yet;)
 
Hey just try in like you were going to. Like you said it not like you got anything to lose if it is bad it was bad. And if that was the case all you did was try to fix it. Some people forget why most of us buy these car we have no money to buy anything faster so we get these and play with them and learn to like them. So go for it and let me know how you make out?
 
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