I have a 2g 420a dsm. My timing belt broke last week im dooing the repairs myself. Im going to try and put a new timing belt on there and do a compression check to see if the valves were bent see if i can save some money.. but to the point of this thread my udp pulley is on the crank so good that i cant get it off i bought the special tool required and broke two of them now and im starting to do some damage to the end of my crank. I have tried heating it up and removing it. Im about ready to just dremel the damn thing off if anyone has a tricks or tips they would be greatly appreciated. I did a search but couldnt find anything this specific.

brandonsask8er said:

I have a 2g 420a dsm. My timing belt broke last week im dooing the repairs myself. Im going to try and put a new timing belt on there and do a compression check to see if the valves were bent see if i can save some money.. but to the point of this thread my udp pulley is on the crank so good that i cant get it off i bought the special tool required and broke two of them now and im starting to do some damage to the end of my crank. I have tried heating it up and removing it. Im about ready to just dremel the damn thing off if anyone has a tricks or tips they would be greatly appreciated. I did a search but couldnt find anything this specific.

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starting to damage your crank? hopefully you mean the pulley.
just go to autozone and rent the harmonic dampener puller for free. and get that baby off.

You've inserted a piece of M12 threaded rod, or a suitably long bolt, for the puller to push against, right? I made that mistake the first time I ever took off one of these pulleys.

Other than that you can try heating it, although that never worked too well for me, and you may damage your front main seal.

If you don't need the pulley anymore, and it is being really stuborn, I recommend carefully grinding it off with a grinder.

m12 threaded bolts that are long enough are freaking HARD to find. so when you do get some keep them forever. it took me a whole day to find some ill never let them go.

im haven the same problem guys i used a three jaw puller from advanced auto parts and it didnt work so i went and got a long long bolt to fit through and it still didnt work any other advice?]

site for the bolts http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Boltthreads.htm

For the record:

To remove the stocker:

* Used to remove the Harmonic Damper on most Chrysler/Mitsubishi engines.
* Its compact, low profile design aliminates (sic) the need to pull the radiator prior to removing the pulley in most cases.
* Instructions included.

To remove the AFX UDP:

* Puller removes balancers, pulleys, and gears with tapped holes.
* Floating swivel prevents damage to the shaft end.
* Tool bolts to balancer with center screw on the end of the crankshaft.
* Puller includes 3/8-24 UNF, 5/16-18 UNC, 3/8-16 UNC and 10mm x 1.5 screws for most American and imported cars.
* Tighten while tapping on the screw head to remove balancer.

Both can be found here.

If you're using anything that looks like this:

You're only bending yourself over and asking to be ass raped by that pulley. Get the right tool. Read the instructions. Take a deep breath. Remove the part easily enough by using the right tool for the job.

Took Me 10 minutes with the 3 jaw in the post above. But I do agree, use the RIGHT tool for the job, and the job gets esier.
Mike

mike i tried it with that puller and i MESSED that puller up i tore the threads up on that puller and i cant find the pullers anywhere on the market

Yeah I had the same problem twice. The first time when my timing belt busted and the second time when I bought the Unorthodox pulley. I gave up both times and had my mechanic take it off. It seems that everytime somebody else does it they make it look so easy. But to answer your ? the three jaw puller does work. put a bolt in the center so that the 3 jaw puller can pry off of it. Slowly try to pry it off and hit the pulley with a mallet so that it vibrates and for some reason it actually comes off. Dont hit too hard you dont want to bend and ruin your pulley.

solo_one87 said:

mike i tried it with that puller and i MESSED that puller up i tore the threads up on that puller

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You might have striped the threads on the pulley, which would cause the bolt to strip as you try to put it in.

solo_one87 said:

and i cant find the pullers anywhere on the market

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AutoZone should carry the pullers, hence the link up above. Good luck.

yea i seen that link after i posted and i ran to the car and did about 45 all the way there(i was in my gurls neon she wouldent let me drive......) just made it in time and i JUST got it off....... the pulley actually CRACKED when i tried to pull it off i got it off though with the use of a crowbar and what do u know 30 mins & 4 busted knuckles later im a happy little tunner again(definatly dont take little litteraly)

thanks all that had contributed if i knew how to give rep i would ill try to find out now

I never thought of hiting it with a mallet while i was pulling on it i broke my three prong puller. What i ment by damaging the end of the crank was the circles i was scratching into it and when the puller broke it gouged the metal a little nothing serious. I wish my crank pulley would just brake off it would be much easier. Thanks for all the tips. When i get back to georga im going to go back to work on the beast. Oh and why would you have to remove the radiator to get to the udp.

solo_one87 said:

the pulley actually CRACKED . . . got it off though with the use of a crowbar

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Oh Jesus. I hope you didn't re-use that cracked pulley. Sounds like you had a crazy adventure with this thing, but be safe and use the right tool for the job next time. There is a chance you might have damaged a bearing on the crank, depending on how hard you pried against the block. Damn. Good luck to you.

solo_one87 said:

thanks all that had contributed if i knew how to give rep i would ill try to find out now

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There is a little scale icon on the lower left corner of each person's post. If you click it, a window will open, giving you the option to rate them up or down. Give it a shot. Eventually, you will be the one helping some newbie and they will be wanting to give you points for your help.

brandonsask8er said:

Oh and why would you have to remove the radiator to get to the udp.

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You do not need to remove the radiator to remove the UDP. That's like saying you need to flip your windshield wipers up off the glass to disconnect the fuel pump. Hahaha.

I ran through the same problem i also used the 3 jaw puller, chiped my pulley and f@^&* up the threads. After 3 long days mechanic came "hit the pulley with a mallet" and like magic it came off yo.

I have had that damn pulley off 3 times. Each time I used a 3-jaw puller. I Just Put a smaller.. longer bolt that bottomed out in the crank, and got it off in like 10min each time. Expect to half to remove the motor mount and drop the engine a little for clearance. I had problems the first time I tryed to remove it. The problem was the puller was pushin on the bolt, but the pulley bottomed out on the head of the bolt i was pushing on.. so I was workin aginst myself. After I noticed this and got a longer bolt, the pulley came straight off.

This is the one thing I really don't miss about my ESI, you have to use the proper 3 jaw puller, those cheap ones you buy at the parts store will not work...period. If at all possible do not use the stock bolt to push against either, if you bend one its terrible finding a replacement, going through the dealer was the only way I found one. Also when you put the new/aftermarket one on make sure you get it all the way on or you'll start ripping through belts