im going to be installing an evo316g on my 2g along with a new manifold and o2 housing. what i want to know is can i just unbolt the manifold from the block and o2 housing from the downpipe and unhook all the lines so i can pull the manifold, turbo and o2 out in one piece? also can i do the same thing when putting the new stuff in, just bolt them all together then attach the manifold to the block and o2 to downpipe and hook up all my new lines? or do i have to do it piece by piece like bolt on manifold to block then bolt turbo to manifold then bolt the o2 on? seems to be alot easier if i can put it all together then put it on the car
thanks for the help guys

yeah i dont see why not, i mean itll be really heavy getting that stuff in and out and u dont want it to drop, but yeah it seems like there shouldnt be a problem with it make sure u have sumtin to assist you in holding it up like bungee cords.

If your going to be taking your old turbo out, i wouldn't even worry about taking out the manifold unless you plan on porting it or something. When i did my evoIII i just left the exhaust manifold in there. I can tell you that you can bolt the turbo w/ the o2 housing back in as one piece with the manifold still on there.

Anyway what your saying doesn't make sense though. If your installing a new turbo, your going to have to take all three pieces apart to put the new turbo on anyway so whats the point?

Good luck with the install man

i think he mainly meant when he is putting it back on as one peice....like can he just have em all connected and just bolt the mani to the head and the o2 to the downpipe and have them preconnected to the turbo.

what im doing is putting on a evo316g and a new evo ported manifold and a tubular o2 housing on at the same time so i was going to go ahead and bolt them all together and put them in as one piece. and i wanted to know if its ok to do it that way. or will anything get in the way?

Yes you can if you remove the radiator, didn't try with it in. Only tough part is unbolting things when you have it removed but you could probably do it in a vice.

Installing things is the same but make sure you attach the oil lines and water hard lines to the turbo.

you can probably do it with the radiator in but you must take out atleast the drivers side fan and still it will be a tight squeeze

yea i dont know if doing that is going to be any easier, and its going to be hard to really torque down the bolts connecting the turbo to the manifold if theyre not connected to anything

Yes, you can take it all out together and put it all in together. I did it with my 14b. It's heavy as hell.....

Bringing this back from the dead...

I am looking to install a new manifold and my 16G at the same time.

Is it easier to bolt the new parts together or separately?

Yes, it will be heavy as hell as already mentioned. Or put on manifold first, and bolt up the o2 housing to the turbo, then bolt it to the manifold.

Is it possible? Yes. It is very difficult to put the turbo/manifold in at the same time for the fact that it is very heavy and you have to hold them up and try to fit them in. I tried it, it's so tight of a squeeze I wasn't able to do it because it took too much energy and chance of dropping/ getting them stuck somewehre. So I took the turbo/ manifold apart and installed them in 10 mins.

I put my tubular header with my gt35r and o2 housing in at the same time, everything that would have got in the way was off the car already(ie radiator, power steering pump and its bracket). It was kind of heavy put it was easier this way because the wastegate was a pain to put on when it was out of the car.

I've found that when you're pulling everything, its easier to leave it all together and just drop it out in one piece. For example, unbolt the O2 housing from the downpipe and unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head and then remove the manifold, turbo, and O2 housing in one chunk.

On the other hand, when you're putting everything together I think its better to do it piece by piece. Its easier to get everthing lined up and torqued properly when you put everthing in one at a time.

Zmann42087 said:

I've found that when you're pulling everything, its easier to leave it all together and just drop it out in one piece. For example, unbolt the O2 housing from the downpipe and unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head and then remove the manifold, turbo, and O2 housing in one chunk.

On the other hand, when you're putting everything together I think its better to do it piece by piece. Its easier to get everthing lined up and torqued properly when you put everthing in one at a time.

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i think i will try your method tomorrow

I just did this last night on my VR4 and had no problems doing it by myself....this included big 16g, 2g manifold, and ported 2g o2 housing. I'm a monster, I know

Back from the dead again...


What tool do I use to take off the 2g manifold? I got a 12mm grip wrench, but the nuts are kinda awkward on it.. lmk

12mm box-end wrench does fine for my nuts.

That sentence sounds so funny .

I used the ratcheting wrenches when I pulled mine. It fit really nice in the holes between the runners. I'm still not quite sure how I'm going to get the washers and nuts back on there when I put everything together. It's a little tight to get your fingers in there.

Now all I have to do is get this damn bolt out of the turbine housing. So far I've went through 23 drill bits (no lie), and snapped off an extractor tip inside the bolt. I was able to get the extractor out last night, but we'll see what the machine shop says today about getting the bolt out.

Are you using ordinary hardware store grade drill bits? You need to step up to a cobalt bit or something like that, use TONS of PB blaster, TONS of heat (oxy-acetylene torch) and make damn sure your hole is dead on center. Then extract it.

thekellbeast said:

Are you using ordinary hardware store grade drill bits? You need to step up to a cobalt bit or something like that, use TONS of PB blaster, TONS of heat (oxy-acetylene torch) and make damn sure your hole is dead on center. Then extract it.

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I used half a can of PB blaster over a period of 2 days along with every drill bit I could get my hands on. Cobalt, Tungsten Carbide, Black Oxide, Titanium, etc. They lasted about 20 seconds and then they were smoked. Finally got a hole big enough to get the extractor in and snapped it off.

I was able to get the extractor out with a torch, cutting wheel and a BFH. Finally got frusterated with it and dropped it off at a machine shop. He said he'll have it done by Thursday since he has a job going all day tomorrow, but I'm not so sure if they will be able to get it out. My friend and I have a bet going to see if he can get it out. I hope I win the bet or I'll be buying a new turbine housing.

spyderturbo007 said:

I used half a can of PB blaster over a period of 2 days along with every drill bit I could get my hands on. Cobalt, Tungsten Carbide, Black Oxide, Titanium, etc. They lasted about 20 seconds and then they were smoked. Finally got a hole big enough to get the extractor in and snapped it off.

I was able to get the extractor out with a torch, cutting wheel and a BFH. Finally got frusterated with it and dropped it off at a machine shop. He said he'll have it done by Thursday since he has a job going all day tomorrow, but I'm not so sure if they will be able to get it out. My friend and I have a bet going to see if he can get it out. I hope I win the bet or I'll be buying a new turbine housing.

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Ah the beauty of broken bits. Ask any machinist and they will tell you all the same exact thing. DO NOT use an EZ out or typical extractor for a bolt/stud that goes through continuous heat cycles (not to mention hardness grade), all you will do is end up snapping it and creating an off-centric hole for the machinist to play with. Everytime I snap a bolt in the housing (thankfully the last time was over 2 years ago) I would immediately just drop it off at the machinist. 30 bucks and 3 days wait is well worth avoiding the hassle of fixing it yourself.

blcknspo0ln said:

Ask any machinist and they will tell you all the same exact thing. DO NOT use an EZ out or typical extractor for a bolt/stud that goes through continuous heat cycles (not to mention hardness grade), all you will do is end up snapping it and creating an off-centric hole for the machinist to play with.

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Oh, yeah, now you tell me Tom.

I also found out there are much better extractors than the ones I was using. I had the tapered kind, that sort of look like an ice cream cone. My buddy had a really nice set that looked like dowel pins with teeth. They were the same diameter all the way down and were made to be hammered into the drilled bolt. Oh well, live and learn. At least I was able to get the one out of the head. That's a little more difficult to drop off at the machine shop than the housing.