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johnny racecar's fmic, who has one?

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trebornash said:
Yo Stoner,sounds like you've worked in muff shop before. I bent my UICP
outta 2.5 alluminized. We stopped using regular steel tubing a decade ago. Rusts out too quick and is way too heavy.

No, just another Garage Monkey here. I did stay at Holiday Inn Express last night though :D
 
I doubt the inside a ic pipe would rust, most all cars have atleast a little oil mist in the intake track, even ones with oil catch cans. The oil film would protect it I would think.
 
b17tuner said:
I doubt the inside a ic pipe would rust, most all cars have atleast a little oil mist in the intake track, even ones with oil catch cans. The oil film would protect it I would think.
That’s the hope, but if everything is tight it should not pass much, if any oil, and if their is no vent to the intake track, the turbo would be the only thing their to oil it up. I am just saying I have seen some horrid rust action, but I never said every car I have taken apart was like this.

98spyder, you live in Cali, shits a little different when you have to drive in winter with snow and mass amounts of salt!
 
What exactly is the purpose of that line from the valve cover to the intake pipe that oil runs thru anyways? Why did mitsu/chr/dalmer/whatever design it like that?
 
elementalwindx said:
What exactly is the purpose of that line from the valve cover to the intake pipe that oil runs thru anyways? Why did mitsu/chr/dalmer/whatever design it like that?

Its there to help ventilate the crankcase.
 
When you run lots o' boost, you will want as much ventalation as possible. Hell, even having a vacume pump will yeild you gains when running high boost.
 
sorry to bring this thread back to life, but i was searching through this thread and i didnt find anyone posting what bends and parts i need for short route piping. I noticed a couple of you used this core and made short route piping. what bends and parts do i exactly need to buy to make short route piping?
 
DSMhelex said:
sorry to bring this thread back to life, but i was searching through this thread and i didnt find anyone posting what bends and parts i need for short route piping. I noticed a couple of you used this core and made short route piping. what bends and parts do i exactly need to buy to make short route piping?

Then I guess you did not read far enough. Ion still has yet to come back online and it has been a month now, so I think I am just going to try to edit the walk thru as best as possible and post it soon in the articles part. There is a list of bends and u can buy them from RRE somewhere in the many pages of this thread.
 
the end tanks extend beyone those holes that the normal short route runs through. You'd actually have to have an elbow that bends at 70 degrees back
 
I posted what you needed awhile back. You will need 3 U bends, a couple of feet of straight pipe and a whole lot of clamps. I would suggest getting the U bends from Jegs. I got mine from RRE and the radius on those U bends sucks, I had to cut all of them in half and use a coupler to make it longer.
 
coltboostin said:
As far as rust, well, you live in Cali, so it may not be a problem for you. I used to always use mild piping on intercooler plumbing until I saw some horrid looking (inner) piping off of cars that have one had the piping in question for 6 months to a year, but the worst case cars were winter driven, so Im sure that contributed.

I've had a Dave B. pipe for about 3 years and no sign of rust inside, and I'm in Michigan ;)

I did have a problem with the outside where some paint rubbed off with the couple though :D

I know this was an old post, so don't say nothing about it :p
 
hakcenter said:
i checked out jrc's webpage today to take notice, hes not selling backdoor designs...

they 'disappeared' i havent emailed him to see if he might carry it again...

Bargain buy at the time i guess?



He sent me an email about 3 weeks ago when I asked about them. They are special order and he does not stock them. It sounds like he will still make them you just have to wait a bit longer for him to make it.
 
I'm running the HRC super 16g on 10cm housing. Hopfully soon the 7cm. Hopfully July I'll have injectors and exhaust, possibly arp studs and cometic hg and THEN I'll hit up a dyno ;)

P.S. I'm still waitn for Ion to come back online. I havn't seen him in months. When I get the time I'm going to go ahead and release this how-to on the pipe setup and install. I'm in the middle of moving out, and advertising my pc repair business and then starting up a 2nd job all at the same time. Kills all the free time I had :)
 
elementalwindx said:
I'm running the HRC super 16g on 10cm housing. Hopfully soon the 7cm. Hopfully July I'll have injectors and exhaust, possibly arp studs and cometic hg and THEN I'll hit up a dyno ;)

P.S. I'm still waitn for Ion to come back online. I havn't seen him in months. When I get the time I'm going to go ahead and release this how-to on the pipe setup and install. I'm in the middle of moving out, and advertising my pc repair business and then starting up a 2nd job all at the same time. Kills all the free time I had :)
I read the HRC super 16G with the 10cm turbine housing pulls hard on top end, too much lag? Mark
 
sweet97 said:
I read the HRC super 16G with the 10cm turbine housing pulls hard on top end, too much lag? Mark

It pulls hard on NO end, the HRC turbine housings are such a hunk of crap. Run one and find out why no one wants one.
 
sweet97 said:
I read the HRC super 16G with the 10cm turbine housing pulls hard on top end, too much lag? Mark

Well I got my turbo for $150 + $280 for the kit. So I can't complain too much, and it also matches up to my piping setup.

and yes it does pull hard for that last little bit after 4k rpm. I am trying to trade housings w/ a friend of mine who wants to spool further up in the rpm band, so I can get a 7cm.
 
pianoman said:
Anybody have any updates or numbers?


Here is a log from my pocketlogger the other day. Also a little info on my car:
Ported turbine housing on the stock 14B turbo 115000 miles. NO shaft play. FIC 650's
3" MAFT, JRC Core, DSM Chips Stage 3.

I got everything but the MAFT at the same time (this winter). Before I put all those parts on I was running the stock 450's, stock sidemount, walbro 255, FTS AFPR and the MAFT last year.

Last year my knock was pretty good with 1X knock numbers in the top of third with the stock parts and boost at 15 psi. 13.60 was the best 1/4 mile 1.7 60 ft. I could put down last year at the track, however I was only able to run my car twice.

The log below shows what is going on with the same stock turbo at 20 psi on 93 octane pump gas.

I can say one thing, the turbo spools up SOOO fast now that my HKS External wastegate cannot open fast enough and I get boost spikes of 22-23 psi. OMG

Anyway here ya go

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I just ran a 13.2 @ 102mph at the track. Previous best was a 14.1 with no jrc fmic or dsmlink.

Spun a Rod Bearing or something in the bottom end so I didnt get to run too many times and my tune wasnt the greatest. This was on 93 pump and about 18psi 1.8 60ft.

I should have more times after I swap in a 6 bolt :D
 
Mounted mine tonight. doing pipeing this Friday. Anyone have some damn good pics of driver side pipes for a 1G? It looks REALLY tight on that side to run a 2.5" pipe.

O yeh added alky injection. :)


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