Yea, something definitely seems wrong. 297 was put down on the V-trim at a PSI less.

Go over everything again, and let us know if you find anything.

what intercooler is it that you have? if you have an intercooler that doesn't have good cooling and flow abilities that will restrict you as well. With the numbers i have seen and the data on the H3 it should definately do more than that man.

wooh...you dyno less than nazthug with the vtrim on 91 pump gas :thumbdown
damn....you gotta be a little disappointed

didn't have any time to log tonight, but I did get to make a quick run on some dry salty road after class. Burned 3rd really easy and 4th wasn't much of a problem either.

I'm working on getting a boost leak tester this weekend if I can get away from the fam since this motor is finally broken in.

One thing I did notice is I thought I heard a bit of flutter on one of the pulls. After I get the leak tester I'll tighten up the BOV (to check and see if that was the problem since I don't have a dyno of my own.... and the ass dyno doesn't do much when the tires just roll)

I'll be sure to keep you guys updated

If you want someone to run with... or help with some logs let me know. Im just around the cornor

99gst_racer said:

That turbo is rated at 48lb/min, which is about 10lb/min above the B16G. I just would've expected higher numbers even on a pump gas tune.... At 18 PSI, I would've expect to see around 350 WHP. On the site, there is a dyno of a 99gst that has basic mods and feul mods and cams, and they are at 401 WHP at 20 PSI. I just dont understand the difference.... Fosty has more mods than the other guy and about 110HP less..... Just a little confused, thats all.

Click to expand...

To be honest I told Jon I've seen the same HP results with a big 16G on similiar mods. Granted cams would have added about 25whp, but still we'd be at 310-320whp all said and done. The only thing mechanically that comes to mind would be a boost leak. That would affect the HP for sure but there wasn't one when the car left the shop the first time. And it there was a boost leak the A/F ratio would drop off the charts rich (you're venting metered air), which it didn't on the dyno. A/F ratio was in the mid 11's, and i had to pull a bit of timing out because the knock sensor was getting tripped at higher RPM's. I did a number of pulls to be consistant, not just one, pull timing and leave it at that.
BTW I just looked at Bullseye power website and looked at the pics of the turbo, check the pics Jon posted of his compressor wheel, and then look at the pic of the H3 on their website, notice the back-curvature of the compressor wheels on Jon's, and not on the one the website? Unless their pics are goofed on Bullseye's website, it doesn't match up.

Can you show me the link where it makes 400whp on 20psi on pump gas?
I'm not trying to blame the turbo, just explaining the tuning process and that everything seems to be funtioning as it should. Of course to really know you'd have to dig deeper, do a boost leak test, leakdown test, ect...

-Martin

This is the first time I actually looked closely at your pictures and it looks like we have solved the mystery. For the last 5 weeks we have been missing a T04E 57 trim out of inventory and it looks as if thats what you received. We have apparently made a serious shipping error, that is certainly not an H-3. This would also explain your lack of HP at 19 psi. Even though both the H-3 and the 57 trim are 50 lbs/min, the 57 trim is more of a "high pressure" wheel and would likely not make the HP you expected until you reach a much higher boost level. The last 57 trim we tested made 424 HP at around 25-26 psi, the H-3 would likely do that at 20-21 with all supporting mods. From all of us at Bullseye Power we sincerly apologize and will be more than willing to send you a brand new unit for you to swap at your earliest convenience. Thus eliminating any down time you may have on the turbo swap. Please contact me directly to work out the details.

Please post any updates. My H3 will be coming next week, I'm very interested in the result of this thread. Thanks.

1029TSG... I PMed you about our options...

I"ll let everyone know whats going on once things started to get sorted out a bit. I was actually thinking about getting a t04e before I ordered the H3... but I was a bit worried about install and streetability and such. If I just havn't gotten into the efficiency range of the turbo then I guess I'll just have to sometime . Now that everything has been done to get this turbo on I may just keep it... but I may look into getting the H3 so I can run a more consistent higher HP at lower boost since I don't wind up at the track too often.

In case martin happens to come back to this thread... do you remember what the PTE 680s duty cycle was at while we were maxing?

I just PM'ed you back and if you'd like to post on here my response be my guest.

Damn 290... I think I had more outta my 14b setup on the old 94 talon... I easily was making over 300 awhp

ive personally seen a sm 16g on a 2gb fwd make 290 hp and 300+tq on a dyno

1029TSG said:

fostytou said:

I guess this comes down to a semi-interesting situation. There were obvious costs in getting this turbo to fit (new rad fan/some other issues) and getting a new turbo on is not something I can do right now (no garage, plus I would prefer to have AMS do it) plus another tuning session. I guess the question comes down to the cost for both of us. Since I have forged internals and a nicely built 6 bolt do you think I would be better off keeping the turbo and saving us both the costs of shipping/install/porting/downtime/you getting a used turbo back and just turning up the boost? I'm looking for obvious streetability, which I think this one is fine with.... and I wouldn't mind running higher boost at the track and keeping this one on low for the daily drive.

I was originally thinking of ordering one of these actually, but I figured the H3 would be a bit better on the street. I guess lets just start out here and let me know what you think.

Click to expand...

First of all, thanks for your understanding in this matter. Its seems you received a bigger, slightly better at high boost and more expensive turbo. Believe me we are ok with that since it was our mistake. I would say in light of your situation "RUN THE PISS OUT OF IT" and I will extend your warranty to 24 months free of charge. I should think you'll reach your goals after fixing your boost leak or any other issues you may find and turning it up on race gas. Even if a year goes by and you think you want to try one of our other combinations we will work with you on a turbo swap. Does this sound fair to you?

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This sounds GREAT! I guess I should change the title to "got my T04E.... no wonder this thing is so huge!"

a few questions for 1029TSG....

1. What kind of numbers do you think I could run on pump now that you've seen where the turbo is at on 20psi (with possible problems)?
2. What kind of knock problems do you think I would be looking at since we had to pull a couple of degrees already?
3. What am I looking at for max pump boost and max 100/110 octane boost psi?

Thanks alot!

That sounds like a great deal.

Hey david, can you purposely ship me a umm...Holset HX40 by mistake as well.

Well, I should think that 280 and change at the wheels will net you a mid to high 12 in an AWD. I think you had an FWD which I have little to no experience with at the track so maybe someone else can chime in. I cant see why you would have any significant knock unless your FMIC is not up to snuff. Did you ever get a flow rate or brand name on that core? I have run in the low 12's (340 whp) on stock cams with a similar sized turbo before. At that HP level on a T04E turbocharger and adding cams, you should see at least a 40 HP gain. So, high 300's to the low 400 range is well within reach.

oldman said:

That sounds like a great deal.

Hey david, can you purposely ship me a umm...Holset HX40 by mistake as well.

Click to expand...

Now there's an idea, although we probably wouldn't stay in business for very long.

fostytou said:

Anyway, so far everything seems all nice. A couple of things I noticed were that the RPMs hunted 750-800 pretty good, but as soon as you tapped the clutch (not even close to disengaging) they would fall to about 200-400. Not sure how the motor kept running (and a couple of times it didn't).... it seems this is a problem alot of dsmlinkers are seeing. Trying to figure it out now.....

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Actually it's NOT a problem.

If you would look on the support forums you see why it does it, and which of the settings YOU control causes it.

Hal

Hal said:

Actually it's NOT a problem.

If you would look on the support forums you see why it does it, and which of the settings YOU control causes it.

Hal

Click to expand...

I hadn't tried to install the clutch cut wire because it was the middle of a snowstorm when I got my car back. I was unaware that AMS had gone through the trouble of hooking it up (extra points!) but no one enabled clutch cut on DSMLink when I got it. I didn't know why it was happening and Thomas Dorris helped me out. chill dude

H3? V-trim? Are these turbos straight out of the 1960s? Why would anyone sell or buy turbos with these archaic compressor wheels in them? With shops like FP and AMS testing and experimenting with all the newer GT compressor wheels and the things that the GT exhaust wheels are capable of, it is weird to see turbos like these sold that make TO4E 50-trims look like new technology.

ecoli said:

it is weird to see turbos like these sold that make TO4E 50-trims look like new technology.

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:laugh:

ecoli said:

H3? V-trim? Are these turbos straight out of the 1960s? Why would anyone sell or buy turbos with these archaic compressor wheels in them? With shops like FP and AMS testing and experimenting with all the newer GT compressor wheels and the things that the GT exhaust wheels are capable of, it is weird to see turbos like these sold that make TO4E 50-trims look like new technology.

Click to expand...

I was actually looking at the AMS kit... could have gotten it for about $300 more after everything I did to hit full potential... but it was too late, I was already in the process of getting this because I was planning on doing it myself. If I would have gone the AMS route though I'm sure I wouldn't have wound up with just the $1800 kit... I probably would have spent something more like 3k and gotten a tubular header too.

ecoli said:

H3? V-trim? Are these turbos straight out of the 1960s? Why would anyone sell or buy turbos with these archaic compressor wheels in them? With shops like FP and AMS testing and experimenting with all the newer GT compressor wheels and the things that the GT exhaust wheels are capable of, it is weird to see turbos like these sold that make TO4E 50-trims look like new technology.

Click to expand...

These turbos are being used to compete with turbos like the Mitsu 16G. These are direct bolt-on and more efficient at higher HP ranges. Nobody said these are the best or newest technology. Of course your GT turbo or FP Red is going to be a little better; it will also cost twice the price. These bullseye turbos are great for price, compatibility, and power. They are a great bang for the buck. What else could you get for $569?

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Well, for around 290whp, why not just get a 16G or get an EVO 3 16G and make even more.

99gst_racer said:

These turbos are being used to compete with turbos like the Mitsu 16G. These are direct bolt-on and more efficient at higher HP ranges. Nobody said these are the best or newest technology. Of course your GT turbo or FP Red is going to be a little better; it will also cost twice the price. These bullseye turbos are great for price, compatibility, and power. They are a great bang for the buck. What else could you get for $569?

Click to expand...

You could have spent $200 dollars more (not 2x the price) and gotten a PTE turbo. The are light years ahead of this stuff, and bolt right up. You can't even begin to compare the deseigns of these turbos to what he bought.

I personally made 481whp on my old FWD with a scm61, This was on a stock bottom end, stock computer, and only a MAFT for engine control. I bought mine new for $650, but I got them at wholesale prices. You could have got it for a few $100 more, and never had any complaints.

Research!!!

ecoli said:

Well, for around 290whp, why not just get a 16G or get an EVO 3 16G and make even more.

Click to expand...

that's a weak ass statement. why not? because the to4b v-trim or the to4b-h3 is the SAME price you can get a turbo that is DIRECT BOLT ON and has better flow numbers.

hypothetically, why spend 1000 bucks on a 44 lb/min turbo, when you can get a different turbo for the same price that will flow 49 lb/min; all else equal?

trbotalon2 - agreed. but then again, you're comparing apples to oranges. the 50 trim was never, and never will be compared to a 16G..