Just about finished w/ a 1 off custom top mount header we will probably be using on our RWD car. This should also fit under the hood of a 1G w/o power steering and if you cut the upper mount.

About 95% finished, just have to added the wastegate flange and some finish welding. Constructed of 304 SS w/ SS flanges as well.

Nick
SLS

thats SICK!
I love that design hopefully ill make one like that one day

tight, i wanna see that in the car with the turbo poking out the hood

Looks good, but why exactly did you do that?

Because i can.

And why not??

ChicagoGSX said:

Looks good, but why exactly did you do that?

Click to expand...

We needed a manifold flanged for a T3/T4 and setup for a RWD configuration so thats the main reason as to why i did it. Not really to found of any of the T3/T4 manifolds that are out for the DSM so we are going to start fabricating our own and market them.

Another design setup for a more basic setup where you can keep power sterring and be able to run a stock style intake pipe w/ a MAS. Wastegate runner on this one below will come up bewteen runners 2 and 3 in the gap thats there. Mich have some pics of that up today for anyone interested.

PSI2HI said:

We needed a manifold flanged for a T3/T4 and setup for a RWD configuration so thats the main reason as to why i did it. Not really to found of any of the T3/T4 manifolds that are out for the DSM so we are going to start fabricating our own and market them.

Another design setup for a more basic setup where you can keep power sterring and be able to run a stock style intake pipe w/ a MAS. Wastegate runner on this one below will come up bewteen runners 2 and 3 in the gap thats there. Mich have some pics of that up today for anyone interested.

Click to expand...

Odd looking stuff.

I can see why Ron advised my not to go with a Top mount set up, because it looks like a mess of a job.

This does not stroke you?

http://shearermotorsport.com/products/smp-02-003_2.jpg
http://shearermotorsport.com/products/smp-02-005-4.jpg

His stuff seems to make everyone else in the DSM world salavate uncontrolably.

Good luck with your plans though.

No need for me to buy a manifold when i got my own shop, have all the equipment and skill to make them. Let alone this top mount is setup for the motor to be mounted transverse as well. I'll post pics of the vehicle once we get the frame all jigged up and tacked in place.

Top mount isn't really all that difficult, buddy in SD built a upside ramhorn style for a top mount as well. Basically you can take a std manifold and almost flip it upside down. Also make fot a lot easier access to the turbo/DP and usually a smoother DP path as well.

Nick
SLS

Interesting..

i dont understand why u would want the turbo to be on top? what different does it make if its on top or in its stock position? Just looks to me like a bunch of unnecessary piping. ur headers are a lot longer than normal tubular headers and cyclinders 2 and 3 are a lot longer than 1 and 4. Also u have to make ur downpipe a lot longer just to go under the motor to exit the engine bay.

Looks pretty sweet though and if i had a shop i would be doing the same shit u are i'm just kinda puzzled why u need ur turbo on top? just more heat to melt the paint on ur hood .

1. Access to the turbo and downpipe as twice as easy w/ a top mount.
2. This is for a transverse mounted engine where a bottom mount would be a PITA to work w/.
3. This isn't for your average DSMer running a 14b. There is a lot more clearance room for a much larger downpipe and easy of access to it.

I find it funny that 85% of the posters in this thread don't get the fact that this is for a RWD car...


Think of the 4G63 mounted like an SR20, fellas..

Stock said:

I find it funny that 85% of the posters in this thread don't get the fact that this is for a RWD car...


Think of the 4G63 mounted like an SR20, fellas..

Click to expand...

Major props to you for picking up on that, thank you!!

I was waiting for someone to catch on but it just wasn't happening.

the other forum i'm on, www.clubtgc.us, has a lot of members trying to go turbo and/or swapping their heads to the 63 head. i think here, what you are doing is very incredible and very very good work. congratulations on that and good luck in the future man.

steve

Stock said:

I find it funny that 85% of the posters in this thread don't get the fact that this is for a RWD car...


Think of the 4G63 mounted like an SR20, fellas..

Click to expand...

i took the fact that it was for a RWD car into consideration the entire time. I cant say that i've seen a dsm with a rwd mounter 4g63, but still if the car is in the air it doesnt make the turbo and downpipe that hard to be accessed. besides there are lot more things to attend to besidees the turbo and downpipe that will be a lot hotter now that thats up there . I dont really need to access my exhaust or my turbo, i dont see why u would unless u were just constantly swapping shit in and out, but if u find something that works why would u need to change it

coltboostin said:

This does not stroke you?

http://shearermotorsport.com/products/smp-02-003_2.jpg
http://shearermotorsport.com/products/smp-02-005-4.jpg

His stuff seems to make everyone else in the DSM world salavate uncontrolably.

Good luck with your plans though.

Click to expand...

Uncontrolable salivation comes from the following link. Lifetime guarantee, no need for a turbo support bracket, tubing so thick they're criticized for the wieght (8 gauge .1644" vs ~11.5 gauge .110").

http://www.full-race.com/images/gallery/dsm/images/001.jpg

I've come to the conclusion that anything less on a street car is a cracked header waiting to happen. Most race headers (light / thin walled) appear to operate under the assumption that a short lifespan/higher maintenance is acceptable, and it probably is.

Shearers are quite a bit less at the current "Introductory Pricing", but they're not making me salivate.

This one fits 2G's w/ good clearance for power steering, hood, radiator, etc.. Just needs some finshing welding and wastegate runner.

nick, how difficult would it be to make one of these for a full t4? i too am doing a rwd project and am having trouble finding a decent manifold. i would rather help out a fellow dsmer than pay some conglomerate. P.M. me with any details and a ballpark price. thanks.

Very nice Manifold! What tranny are u planning on using?

sunflashx said:

Uncontrolable salivation comes from the following link. Lifetime guarantee, no need for a turbo support bracket, tubing so thick they're criticized for the wieght (8 gauge .1644" vs ~11.5 gauge .110").

http://www.full-race.com/images/gallery/dsm/images/001.jpg

I've come to the conclusion that anything less on a street car is a cracked header waiting to happen. Most race headers (light / thin walled) appear to operate under the assumption that a short lifespan/higher maintenance is acceptable, and it probably is.

Shearers are quite a bit less at the current "Introductory Pricing", but they're not making me salivate.

Click to expand...

His maniflods are alrady on several 10 second DSM's with absolutle no cracking, which have showed remarkable improvement swiching to a Shearer header form a HKS, and other people's header. (wont name names) One example is Bean gaining a full 4mph in the 1/4, just be switching to this header. No other tuning was done, so it have even more room for improvement.

Call Buschur and ask what he runs, and ask how his header is doing on the shop evo.

Call Turbo Trix and ask then who's headers they run.

All this and he has only been marketing them for a month so far....

Check your Full Race header at the door sir.

Generation1JeY said:

i took the fact that it was for a RWD car into consideration the entire time. I cant say that i've seen a dsm with a rwd mounter 4g63, but still if the car is in the air it doesnt make the turbo and downpipe that hard to be accessed. besides there are lot more things to attend to besidees the turbo and downpipe that will be a lot hotter now that thats up there . I dont really need to access my exhaust or my turbo, i dont see why u would unless u were just constantly swapping shit in and out, but if u find something that works why would u need to change it

Click to expand...

Buschur's old RWD car
Rau's RWD talon
Buschur's Conquest

Lots more.

I read that it was to be RWD, but I can see from the pics that it looks to be more complicated than I would hope for. I was going to mess abound with one for a FWD/AWD car. but it is a pain.

Also, with all of the options availadle in terms of mounting with a RWD car, especially if you tube the front frame, I think you will find yourself wanting a different set up later on down the line.

I have also a rwd car. I also have to make a exhaust manifold. It's not so nice as the other manifold, but it works great!









Gr,


Martijn.

peregrine said:

nick, how difficult would it be to make one of these for a full t4? i too am doing a rwd project and am having trouble finding a decent manifold. i would rather help out a fellow dsmer than pay some conglomerate. P.M. me with any details and a ballpark price. thanks.

Click to expand...

PM'd

2000turbo said:

I have also a rwd car. I also have to make a exhaust manifold. It's not so nice as the other manifold, but it works great!

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Gr,


Martijn.

Click to expand...

very nice!! what car is that in?

Generation1JeY said:

i dont understand why u would want the turbo to be on top? what different does it make if its on top or in its stock position? Just looks to me like a bunch of unnecessary piping. ur headers are a lot longer than normal tubular headers and cyclinders 2 and 3 are a lot longer than 1 and 4. Also u have to make ur downpipe a lot longer just to go under the motor to exit the engine bay.

Looks pretty sweet though and if i had a shop i would be doing the same shit u are i'm just kinda puzzled why u need ur turbo on top? just more heat to melt the paint on ur hood .

Click to expand...

You would position the turbo on top for the following reasons:

1) Shit Breaks. It's easier to take it apart when you can get to it easier.
2) Header is longer which results in faster spool, especially with the 5" merge collector feeding the turbo.
3) The tubing is actually close in length. Remember how fast exhaust moves? The 1/2" difference will not cause much of a difference from what I understand.
4) The downpipe won't be going under the motor, it will be going beside the motor.