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Megan 3" S.S. downpipe

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pboglio

15+ Year Contributor
1,799
85
May 8, 2004
Palos Heights, Illinois
Just got my Megan Racing 3" S.S. downpipe. They made a few revisions to it. It starts out at 2.75" (2.625" I.D.) at the 02 housing flange side and is a full 3" (2.875" I.D.) all the way thru, no more neckdowns. They also removed the downpipe/engine block support flange. That I'm not so happy about. There is a midpipe hanger, which is good. Flanges look to be mild steel with either nickel or chrome plating but they've done alot of internal cleanup of the weld penetration, should be no reason to pull out the die grinder. The 02 housing flange connection is .460" thk, cat flange is .350" thick, nice and beefy. The 02 housing stud nuts look like they are going to barely screw on, not much clearance for a socket, might have to go to a crows foot wrench. Comes with all nuts, bolts, and 2.75" and 3.0" high quality metal/fibre flange gaskets. Everything is full polished mandrel bent stainless steel. Best craftmenship I've ever seen on any dsm part that I've bought in the last 12 years. Total shipped was $132. I'll see how the fit and finish is on the car in a few weeks. Cheers.
 

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Megan does have real nice quality stuff. I dont care for the name stamped on stuff but =P

And you dont want that engine block support, total pita, and totally worthless.
 
anconover said:
....And you dont want that engine block support, total pita, and totally worthless.

Without the hangers on the downpipe or the block strap for the downpipe the weight of the turbo, O2 housing and most downpipe is being supported by manifold studs. Not something I would want.
 
the studs will easily hold an o2 housings and exhaust. You wont see an aftermarket exhaust come with that other than apexi. And of which, my friends cracked off his apexi downpipe putting a nice huge hole in it. Its not needed and is worthless. And you can get away with no hanger on the downpipe.
 
Wow, looks like a great piece for any price let alone such a cheap price.
 
i have a megan racing n1 style muffler on my car, extremely nice, they also have fully tig welded 304SS o2 housing for evo, 95$. cant beat the pricing. id like to see how theyre seats are.
 
anconover said:
the studs will easily hold an o2 housings and exhaust. You wont see an aftermarket exhaust come with that other than apexi. And of which, my friends cracked off his apexi downpipe putting a nice huge hole in it. Its not needed and is worthless. And you can get away with no hanger on the downpipe.

I had problems when I first made my exhuast and had no hangers on the downpipe section. My DP section is a tad longer than this but the same thing. With locks washers my 3 bolts for the DP tp 02 housing kept coming loose. I put hangers on the DP and they haven't since.
 
gotta heman tho nuts on more than LOL. the DP hanger barely supports the downpipe at all, the 2 hangers on the catback hold it up as well, and with the o2 bolts tight, it really doesnt allow pressure on that hanger. Ive built tons of exhausts, thats how its always looked to me, although i do use the hanger, its not 100% necessary...

but to each theyre own, use what you feel comfortable with.
 
ChicagoGSX said:
All DPs are the same for turbo DSMs.


how so. a 1g awd dp doesnt fit the gst.raises the exhaust to high under neath. also the 2 will nto fit a 1g.

please explain
 
Well, this is just my opinion, but the downpipe support bracket for the engine block is not to support the downpipe, but to support the Turbo/Manifold. Gotta be around 30 lbs just hanging off of the manifold studs with whatever torque mulitplication going on, not good without the engine block/downpipe support point. I've never had a stud pull out/manifold warp/blown downpipe gasket when I've supported the downpipe on the engine block with a bracket etc. I'm picky though, YMMV.

I bought the pipe on ebay from some reseller, very very good experience, fast shipping and response. I doubt Megan will keep this up, they have to be making these things at cost, just to get a little more exposure. These downpipes are worth at least $200 easy. I can't believe the quality of this piece, really hard to believe let alone the ridiculously low price.
 
a 1g gsx downpipe will fit on a 1g gst..i have one on my gst from my tsi.. the only diffrence is that the gsx flange is angled to clear the down pipe i beleive.. you may have to do some small hackjob to get it all to fit up right..

also 2g catbacks wont work on a 1g because the 1g exits the passanger side of the rear of the car and the 2g exits the drivers side. as far as down pipes go.. all turbo dsm's are pretty much the same except for flange angles
 
they actually probly make those downpipes for near 60$. Tubing is dirt cheap. Exhaust companies with a mandrel bender make an ungodly killing on exhaust systems.
 
I do believe they could build them for $60, but mine cost $89 without shipping. They shipped them from China to Megan Racing in California and then to me for another $35. Thats cutting it pretty tight as far as profits goes, especially when there are only so many 2g turbos running around on the streets modified that would even need a 3" downpipe. I almost feel bad not buying it from a DSM vendor but I've done my part supporting the DSM vendor community over the last decade. I've seen very few downpipes built as nicely as this one.

Just for kicks, I priced out what it would cost me to build one from scratch. Assuming I get no price breaks for buying in bulk and no access to mandrel bending equipment. The 90* 3" first bend would cost me $32, the 3" S.S. flex section another $36, 2ft of T304 S.S. straight pipe $22-$28. I believe 3" exhaust flanges are around $5-$12 each from R.R.E., and 2x 3" gaskets ($10 or so). So not including any welding costs, assuming I had the equipment to weld it. I would get around $110 to duplicate this downpipe as an individual fabbing it up myself, not including shipping. Glad I bought it instead :thumb:
 
jott5555 said:
a 1g gsx downpipe will fit on a 1g gst..i have one on my gst from my tsi.. the only diffrence is that the gsx flange is angled to clear the down pipe i beleive.. you may have to do some small hackjob to get it all to fit up right..

also 2g catbacks wont work on a 1g because the 1g exits the passanger side of the rear of the car and the 2g exits the drivers side. as far as down pipes go.. all turbo dsm's are pretty much the same except for flange angles



doesnt this raise the exhaust to a height under the car to wear its really close to the under body and creates in cockpit noise. i heard and read on here it raises the exhaust to a height to wear ti actually heats th eunder body and sometimes hits it under heavu acell
 
with the amount of airflow under there i doubt it would raise it enough to make any diffrence in the temp of the floor. and as far as in cabnet noise if you didnt want that you wouldnt modify your car..
 
jott5555 said:
with the amount of airflow under there i doubt it would raise it enough to make any diffrence in the temp of the floor. and as far as in cabnet noise if you didnt want that you wouldnt modify your car..


so your saying i can run a 1g tsi downpipe on my fwd and it will fit.

explain this hackjob you speak of. is just just drilling a hole or cutting and re welding. seems like a pain
 
I HATE stupid f*cking downpipes that flare immediatly after the flange. It gives you NO access to the nuts with a socket. Have fun pulling out your radiator to use an open end wrench everytime you take your downpipe off :rolleyes:
Little eight year chinese kids might have figured out how to weld, but they can't design for sh*t.
 
I ask myself the same question every time I stick my hand in the engine compartment to work on something, very little room to work with. Removing the knock sensor is a good example, very difficult without the right tool.

A crows foot wrench will deal with those downpipe nuts without even having to remove the heatshield. Although I understand that a little forethought as a designer could have made life easier, I'm not too concerned about it.
 
so getting hangers welded to the pipe is more of a peace of mind thing ? I jut got mine in for my talon and thats the first thing i noticed. I was going to just take my old DP and new DP the muffler place i guess and have them do it. I dont have the tools or no-how for welding.
 
ya i have a 3inch dp on my stock o2 housing for my tsi, that i just bought, we pulled the motor and had to remove the dp, goodluck, if the bolts are rusted at all it wont be easy to get them off with a wrench, if i were u personally (and this is what i will do) id get an after market o2 housing or evo3 o2 housing, to make things easy
 
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