We are building a new engine and have all the original parts (except the old rod bearings). Now, when we install the pistons and torque the rod bearings down to 38lbs, the crank will not turn. So we looked up torque settings which is in Chilton's (38lbs). Anyway, is there two different types of bearings for a 6 Bolt (91-92) motor? We did not have the crank machined and we also notice from other rods, that there is two different letters on them, some rods have "O" and some have "A". Mitsubishi says that there is only one bearing type for the 6 Bolt.....so why aren't the ones we've tried work?....We've tried three different manufacturers (SP, Clevite and Beck). Can anyone help us?

Dave

Did you put all the rod caps back on in the same order and direction?

That's the problem too. We don't know which caps came off what rods.

Get the rods resized and keep the caps in order.

NDgsx said:

Get the rods resized and keep the caps in order.

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and make sure your new rod bearings aren't to big.

Yup, you'll have to get them resized, also make sure you plastigauge the bearings and make sure the clearances are in spec.

Or if you are cheap and have a good eye for details you could match up the machining marks on the sides of the rods big end. The machine marks will all be slightly different, but you must look closely, and you must be 100% sure you got them matched up correctly or else you will find out why we say," mod cheap, mod twice".

Well, I got three sets of rod caps and I found the ones that fit the best and all is well...EXCEPT....One or two of them aren't right I have some side to side movement on two of the rods and I have noticabl;e rod knock when running the engine. How much side to side movement is allowable?

Your side to side clearence should not be more than .002-.004. Did you plastigauge your bearing clearence. it should be between .0008-.002

The bearings are good...it's the end caps that aren't...I'll gage it and see.....

Something is wrong if you have enough side to side rod play to cause an engine knock. what did your plastiguage tell you?

I built a motor once that was turned .010/.010 on the crank. I put the right bearings in it and I had the same problem as you (locked up motor). It turns out that instead of taking .010" off of the rod journals, they only actually took .009" off and it was siezing up.

Did you even take the crank out when you put everything back in? did you have it checked? Alot of people think our cranks are just the shiat and indestructible, but there could be a chance that your rod journals are way out of round.

ALL is WELL!!!!...YEAH!!!! The rods had markings on them I didn't notice before, so I matched up the caps with the same markings and it runs B-E-A-UTIFUL! Thanks for the rod marking idea!!! It worked.