so many missinformed people in the upper portion of this thread

you could do a search and get lots of stuff on this. but here ill help you out on this one. if your motor fails on you it was because you didnt put it together well enough. except for the cw wich i have no idea on how to get rid of. many therys but no hard facts. if you break it in this way not only will it last longer but it will run better. http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135694

So no synthetic oil for the first 500 miles???

ya NO SYNTHEDIC, very bad for a new motor, I would stick with reg oil for about 800 miles orso.

Well, it has been 9 days, no reason a

search

would have found it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156384&highlight=breakin

When i broke in my 7 bolt i drove it for like 50 miles or so and change the oil,regular oil. would never let the engine see boost till like 300 miles or so, but even then never let go over like 5 psi or something like that. Changed the oil at 500miles. and then like at 600miles i started going on the gas a bt more but it wasnt till like 850miles when I stepped on it but take in mind my car was all stock at that moment. So i guess you should wait at least 1000miles. Good luck man. Oh and my engine has gone 20,000miles already hitting 12's all day so i dont seem why you should have a problem laterz

DSMeclipse4G63 said:

I would run synthetic from the get go...when I build up a 6 bolt Im going red line synthetic.
Andrew

Click to expand...

This will ruin your rings and destroy any chance of them ever sealing.

gsx951 said:

This will ruin your rings and destroy any chance of them ever sealing.

Click to expand...

you know some cars run synthetic from the beginning

Yep, and some motors are broken in on engine dynos prior to delivery too.

Well i already know that i should use regular oil and how to drive it from a guide i saw on the internet but i wanted to know, when should i change the oil? and when can i start racing the car?

I think I'm correct in saying that 97% of the people on here with turbo DSMs prefer Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W30 with a Mobil 1 oil filter. Change every 3000 miles like any other car.
Break in period? Do you have a newly rebuilt engine or an engine newly assembled from somewhere like magnus? If not, there's no break-in period. Have fun!

ok here's the deal you can't break in an engine with syntethic oil and it's too expensive anyways for regular use, oil is oil unless your pushing 400+hp

Anyways the engine is a low mileage short block 6-bolt from and automatic car, it has new piston rings, all bearings, all seals, all engine pulleys, tensioner, basically a re-built engine, only upgrade is 2g pistons and rings. I know about how to break-in the car i just don't know after how many miles to do my first oil change. And i am also in doubt as to when i can race it and what i am refering to is going to the track.

thanks

I like breaking my motors in on the dyno. 10 minutes to idle with a cheap mineral oil and filter, change the oil to whatever you like (I like VR1) and go hit a mustang dyno. Load up the engine and let it decellerate on it's own, really helps the rings seal.

I do the first change at 50, next one at 500, then at 2000. I use dyno oil until the motor has about 5k on the clock. Was your block honed when they put the 2g pistons and rings in?

Here's a whole boatload of break-in theories for you:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156384

None of them matter, after all that.

I'm getting a 6bolt whipped up here shortly. Looks like an Eagle / Wiseco bottom end etc. Just curious as I've heard MANY different opinions, but how should you break in a motor??? Basically I've heard two theories...

1. The slow, and tedious break in....
Slowly break the car in with tons o oilchanges etc, don't go into boost for xxx miles etc, then slowly work her up blah blah.

2. The "Break her in how you'll be driving her." flog the ride technique.
Tons of oilchanges, and don't spare the whip. Just seat the rings in a few miles and let her rip.

Personally, I wholeheartedly thing that method 1 is the way to go. I'm not a mechanical engineer though, and any advice / input would be greatly appreciated. If you have any advice or anything to add, please explain why you think that is the method of choice. Thanks.

I use method 2. Thats what my machine shop recommended to me as well.

There are many, many engine break-in threads already on this board. Please refer to them by the search method. Thanks.

Hey guys whats up....

Well i just got my block back today, completely rebuilt w/ ross pistons. The crank was heatreated with all new bearings etc etc.

anyways, i was gonna be putting it in prolly this weekend or the next and i was wondering what sort of precautions to take upon the first start up......do i need to do anything speacial, because there will be no oil in the bottom end yet. I dont want the engine to seize on me, that would suck so hard, so i would appreciate any info on what to do on the first start up....

also, what kind of break in would you guys recommend me giving the car, obviously im not going to be boosting the hell out of it, but any special way of doing it?

Thanks alot guys i appreciate it.

TalonTSiGuy said:

Hey guys whats up....

Well i just got my block back today, completely rebuilt w/ ross pistons. The crank was heatreated with all new bearings etc etc.

anyways, i was gonna be putting it in prolly this weekend or the next and i was wondering what sort of precautions to take upon the first start up......do i need to do anything speacial, because there will be no oil in the bottom end yet. I dont want the engine to seize on me, that would suck so hard, so i would appreciate any info on what to do on the first start up....

also, what kind of break in would you guys recommend me giving the car, obviously im not going to be boosting the hell out of it, but any special way of doing it?

Thanks alot guys i appreciate it.

Click to expand...

Put an impact on the oil pump until you get oil pressure. You might have to prime the pump with oil or other lube to get a good suction going. Break-in for 500 miles. High rpm, lots of vacuum, not a lot of boost.

dont mean to steal the threat but I also got my engine rebuilt Sofar I put 745 miles on my engine/new clutch, is that engough milage to take it and get dyno tuned?, I sofar havent went above 5000rpm and 10psi

once its installed. the most important thing to do is seat the rings properly.

warm the car up for 5 mins and then do 5 pulls from 3-7k after that just change your oil, and continue to do so after the next 100 miles, then the next 150 & 300.. use regular oil, not synthetic. after that you should be ready to go.

I got a "new" motor from a friend, and when I say new I mean brand new. This motor is not a rebiuld. He bought a new short block and a head, all stock. the motor is completely assembled and ready to go. I'm pulling the motor out of his project car in a couple of days. my car is a 91 tsi and tha car it is coming out of is a 90. the only thing i'm worries about is the amount of time the motor has been sitting. It has never been turned over, its been cranked to buil oil pressure but not started. the motor appeares to be in good shape(no rust, leaks, it ahs good compression and is timed correctly). What are somethings I may need to do to get the new motor ready to be started and driven. Sense it has been sitting roughly 6 months what are things I need to look out for? Any comments or tips will helpful...THX.

First time starting it I varied the idle between 1-2krpm using quarter throttle until it was up to operating temp, then I shut her off. I checked all the fluids etc. The next time starting her I warmed her up again, then drove about 2 miles going progressively higher up to about 5krpm and half throttle. I then drove another 8-10 miles doing this. Checked everything again, then did a few full throttle pulls, checked everything again, and shes runnin great. I have about 100 miles on the motor now. Shes running very good, I still have a good bit of tuning to do, but she holds idle fairly well and pulls strong. I've done a lot of engine breaking with the motor to try and seat the rings as best as possible. I have a Ross/Eagle combo, crower valve train, etc. I haven't taken her over 6500, as the 14b is absolutely falls on its face at about 6krpm. It's not fuel cut, you can just tell the turbo is out of its efficency range. Today starting in the snow the car didn't have any sounds of piston slap. All this work to be running a 14b at stock boost =P