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Fuel system problem

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UCSLugRacerX

15+ Year Contributor
166
0
Jun 9, 2004
Santa Cruz, California
My 1G has been dead for over week now, and I'm still scratching my head as to what the fix is. Here is the situation:
- It’s spark on all 4 plugs
- I replaced the 3 caps on the ECU. (Plus, it’s a next to new ECU)
- The Fuel control relay was tested and checks out fine
- The fuel pump is fine, and I can hear it when I crank the starter
- the CAS has not been touched
- brand new fuel filter (so I made sure it wasn’t clogged.)
- new/ replaced idle speed screw. (and set it to approx. 750 RPM’s at idle)

-The timing belt was recently done, but I checked the timing marks and ALL of them line up perfectly. (crankshaft pulley, oil pump pulley, cam sprockets, front balance shaft, and the hidden rear balance shaft.)
-Although I did notice that I have a strange cut in the timing belt itself, (Which means I’ll be doing the timing belt job again.)
-Idle pulley, and tensioner pulley, automatic tensioner, and tensioner arm assembly was replaced.
-When I attempt to start it, it runs over but doesn’t fire.

Also, the engine stopped working while I was driving on the freeway, and I noticed that the engine was making somewhat of a hissing sound, plus my Air/fuel ratio gauge was indicated it was running rich. (It was on the first green bar on rich side.)

-I had a check engine light when it died, but I didn’t have enough time to get a code reader on it. And when I put the key in the On position, the C.E.L. does not light up anymore. (Considering the ECU is Programmed Read Only Memory “P.R.O.M,” it won’t tell me what was going on.)

---So, if I am getting spark, then it must be a fuel problem. Is there another component in the fuel system schematics that I overlooked? Why would the engine die all of a sudden after operating fine for 13 miles? Fuel problem? Ignition? Timing? Faulty, or broken or leaky injectors?—Although my A/F gauge said I was running RICH, just MOMENTS before it died. Could the engine be flooded with fuel?

Please help me with this process of elimination. Any help is appreciated.
And if you live in the Bay Area, in Northern CA, I will pay you if you come by and can figure out and fix the problem.


Thanks!
-Andrew
 
I did just that 2 days ago. I pulled out the MPI fuse, and cranked the engine over, so the ignition could burn out the stagnant pool of fuel.
After doing this 5 or 6 times (although resting the starter at a minute of so interval), the engine still did not start.

I've hooked up a voltmeter to the battery before. It gets 12.3 volts.
When i crank the over, I always jump it with a running Honda Civic, which gives 13.5+ volts from it's running alternator. The battery volage, and voltage drain is not the problem.

I'll check the FPR. Any other thoughts? Thanks for the help guys.

-Andrew. (P.S. the baseball bat sits idle...)
 
I think that you might not have a good enough ground. Try useing some large amplifer power wire like a big fat '1.0 guage ribbon from your motor to the chassis and from the battery to the chassis and the motor. See how that one works.
:dsm:
 
so check this out...........
this happened to a buddy of mine when we first went to crank it after his rebuild, all timing was lined up fuel was fine spark was good............
turned out even though the timing looked to be all lined up it wasnt-there are 2 notches on both of the cams. his werent marked they were just normal , ended up being he had the 2 opposite ones lined up and the car had both sets of valves opening at the same time and it was making the same noises you said ur car is doing

Not saying this is your problem but it may help
 
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