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modify the maf= bad idea

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Mystikal_1788

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Aug 31, 2002
northfieldmn
i was thinking was modifying the maf a bad idea- i did and i also modded the bcs and now my car runs like shiet has anyone else had probs from doing this 2 simple mods?
 
it is so wierd when i bought thos plugs they told me too gap them too .40 which is the non turbo gap so i gapped them wrong these plugs also came gapped to .40 now when i bought these other plugs they told me to gap them to .28 and they came gapped at .28 also i think the plugs i have in there are bpr7es's and the one's i had in there were bpr7ey's
 
-B = 14mm
-P = Projected Insulator Type
-R = Resisitor Type
-6 = Heat Range (1=HOT : 11=COLD)
-E = 19mm thread reach
-K = 2-ground electrodes
-N = Special Side Electrode

-I don't know what does the Y stand for. You might want to contact NGK and see what they say.
 
ffuucckk me this damnnnnnn car what is detonation and how do i know- and also i was running lean as hel becase when i pulled the plugs yesterday they were still white as the day i put them in and they have been in for a few weeks
 
i have 1300$ in my pocket im so pissed i would seriously pay so muh to have someone ffuucckin fix it!
 
I couldnt tell you what it all stands for. I just know stock is BPR6ES and BPR7ES is one heat range cooler and they just work. Its what every one uses its what most on the DSM vendors sell for plugs. Just stick with BPR7ES with a .028 gap.:thumb:
 
Originally posted by Mystikal_1788
ffuucckk me this damnnnnnn car what is detonation and how do i know- and also i was running lean as hel becase when i pulled the plugs yesterday they were still white as the day i put them in and they have been in for a few weeks



detonation is when you have to much air and no enough fuel. I dont know how to describe the sound of it. It is very faint. But the knock sensor will pick it up and pull timing which will drop the power way down. But fisrt we need to know how much boost you are getting. Because there are sever things that can cause this. Do you ever here the computer clicking in the car when driving it?
 
k so what do you think for my prob. now ? im lean as hell i actually might be overboosting another question is the wastegate- should i be able to open and close it by hand? because on my daytona turbo i could push it in and out with some restriction but on my laser it budges very little, detonation how can i check, also 90tsiawd move to minnesota and help me fix my car :) there is beer in it ;)
 
-You might want to check the detonation(knock) sensor that's located on the back side of the block by the #2, if the sensor is leaking some gummy stuff, it need to be replaced.
 
um, i usually have the radio up - but i don't think there is any click- almost positive- i wish i got m frickin pod-you think i could hook it up and just tape it to the dash just to see what i push because i don't have the pod and auto meter is taking forever
 
good thinking turbholic ill look now! is it hard t see nd what does it look like? behind cylinder number 2
 
Originally posted by Mystikal_1788
um, i usually have the radio up - but i don't think there is any click- almost positive- i wish i got m frickin pod-you think i could hook it up and just tape it to the dash just to see what i push because i don't have the pod and auto meter is taking forever



yes. All you need is hooked up for a couple of runs to see the boost levels. You could have a fuel pump problem as well. How old is the fuel pump. One thing at a time though. get the boost gauge hooked up.
 
-It's a pain to get to, look like a big nut(19mm?) with 2 wires come out and go to a black connector on the intake mani bracket.
 
Originally posted by Mystikal_1788
good thinking turbholic ill look now! is it hard t see nd what does it look like? behind cylinder number 2


Its really hard to see from the top. its on the back side of the block but if it went bad it would usauly trough a code. When they start to leak they just get real good ears and pull timing for any noice it hears. Your simptoms doesnt sound like just a bad knock sensor. It wouldnt be the cause of the car running real lean. It would just make the problem worse.
 
well tommorow im gonna wire the gauge in and tape it too the dash how ghetto? well any thing else?
 
Originally posted by Mystikal_1788
well tommorow im gonna wire the gauge in and tape it too the dash how ghetto? well any thing else?




lets just start there. you know where to tap into for your vacuum line correct.
 
well there is a few vaccum lines running off from the firewall well the two closest to the driver side the one on the bottom that runs to the manifold correct?
 
Originally posted by Mystikal_1788
well there is a few vaccum lines running off from the firewall well the two closest to the driver side the one on the bottom that runs to the manifold correct?



http://www.myzero.com/gauges/boost.html


you tap into the line from the fuel pressure regulator to the solenoid on the fire wall. just follow the link it is very clear with a pic of what solenoid to use. it shows three of them but if you DONT have a california car you will just have 2 solenoids.
 
see i explained it exactly damn im good just messin- ill get it in and boosting so we will post result's tommorow stay tuned


TO BE CONTINUED.............................................
 
Dont toss the car man. Detonation happens when the car is too lean. Instead of the combustion chamber burning it explodes, causing lotsa unwanted damage to your engine. Not good. You check engine light should be on. Have you got any of your codes?
 
If its too lean the ECU is missing counts of air running in your car. Or its not able to deliver gas necessary to run the car right. I would check feul pressure, the ECU for its codes, and most likely the MAS because thats one of the things that was touched. This unit measures the amount of air coming in, if too much comes in and it doesnt know it will run the car lean. If its running so lean why doesnt the O2 sensor pick anything up? This may be a contributor but will usually put out a code. If you are not getting any codes than it could be something else. Check the ECU. I have a home remedy to collect ECU codes. Its cheap and EZ lemme know if you want the recipe.
 
so i hooked up the pod today and guess what 9psi in all gears and 18 psi of vaccum exactly what it should be So what is next? laserrst i think you are on to somthing that is what i thought in the first place, actually that is what this thread is about - NO codes none not even a check engine light - but give me the recipe maybe there are codes and im not getting a light - so yeah the gauge told me nothing but my turbo is right where it should be- AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
sorry i had to vent- i think that it is my god damn maf sensor- i could get one for 70 bucks should i go for it? well i ordered a air/fuel mixture gauge today and i was pissed that i didn't get my single pod so i ordered a duel pod- so laserrst thanks for the input i was leaning towards that but this thread made me think otherwise....... also 90tsiawd what is your input- i got the guage in and it runs perfect:thumb:
 
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