I guess there prooven or whatever, but there's no way I will under drive my ac in cali, , shit gets

Is what I am experiencing normal?

If it is getting harder to turn over then you might want to look into other things that deal with starting the car up.


The difference between the 2 pulleys is one is solid while the other has a rubber ring seperating the bolt plate and the outer ring that the belt is touching. It should turn over just the same.

All I have done lately is the underdrive pully and AEM Cam gears installation. Will these affect the cranking of the car?

I saw this looking for the harmonic balencer, If I going to spend some money I might as well get some hp out of it, since the kit comes with the HB. what do you guys think about this OBX kit

http://www.obxracingsports.com/perf...=18&subCat2ID=2

Bad link.

However, you may want to re-consider the "no dampener" idea:

http://members.core.com/~faldrich/harmonic.htm

http://www.dalemfg.com/dale_008.htm

And, most germane:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145566&highlight=bearings

I am driving a 93 laser NT... and its a daily driver... but i want some serious UMPF outta it... so should i go with Lightweight aluminum pulleys... or underdrive pulleys, consider that i have a full stereo on all the time, so the concern i have is the underdrive pulleys not letting the altenator recharge my battery enough... its up to the experts out there though... post your thoughts...

ok, so everyones going with underdrive, but does anyone wish to explain why??? or wish to settle my mind about runnin underdrive pulleys and them not powering my alt enough to give me enough power going to the battery to keep the battery from dying while I run my stereo???

Why not a lightweight, underdrive pulley? I have one by Arospeed. It is great. Made a huge difference and never causes a problem. I also have 2 12's and 2 big amps and they work fine, even with a stock battery and alternator. (no capacitors or anything) Go for it and get the best of both worlds.

cool... thats just what i needed to hear, thanks.

Be carefull on the design of it because the stock Crank pully has a harmonic dampener or balancer and some have caused the engines to get crank shaft play.

I currently have the underdrive alternator pulley and plan on changing it back out to the stock pulley ASAP. For being a daily driver the benefits don't outweigh the loss of voltage. With the temp. dropping and having to use the rear def., heater, and wipers more along with bumping the stereo...it just drains the shit out of my battery. On numerous accounts I have seen my battery volt gauge drop below 11v while my car was running, where it should be at 14.5v. :thumbdown

Going with lightweight aluminum pulleys is a plus though, especially at the crank, that I am keeping. But like TbTalonES mentioned, be careful with cheap ebay knockoff that may do more harm than good.

Just my $.02

StreetSleeper34 said:

I currently have the underdrive alternator pulley and plan on changing it back out to the stock pulley ASAP. For being a daily driver the benefits don't outweigh the loss of voltage. With the temp. dropping and having to use the rear def., heater, and wipers more along with bumping the stereo...it just drains the shit out of my battery. On numerous accounts I have seen my battery volt gauge drop below 11v while my car was running, where it should be at 14.5v. :thumbdown

Going with lightweight aluminum pulleys is a plus though, especially at the crank, that I am keeping. But like TbTalonES mentioned, be careful with cheap ebay knockoff that may do more harm than good.

Just my $.02

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you know, you dont HAVE to have the stereo "bumping". i know im a 2g but ive had mine on for a while, 30% reduction and my volts stay at about 13.5 and everything runs fine. i notice my headlights will dim when im idleing and when i rev it they go right back up. its great

Bah... thats nothing, they won't drop that much with my unlegal high wattage lights ... don't worry, its not ILlegal, its UNlegal

GSGoinFast said:

you know, you dont HAVE to have the stereo "bumping". i know im a 2g but ive had mine on for a while, 30% reduction and my volts stay at about 13.5 and everything runs fine. i notice my headlights will dim when im idleing and when i rev it they go right back up. its great

Click to expand...

Even without my stereo on my volts only read 13.3v at cruising speeds. When I turn on my headlights, fog lights, gauges, wipers, rear defrost, and step on the brakes (power booster), it drops below 11v. When I test my battery on an average day, it is never fully charged up. It is only up to 11-11.5, which puts more strain on the alternator to constantly be charging it during driving. Then if I were to include my stereo (which is never maxed out unless I need to ) I can literally see the volts drop slowly until things start turing off (first to go is my MAFT ) So that is why I decided to change it over to simply lightwieght. For a drag car only it would be fine, but not a daily driver with several accessories that need a lot of power to run. But perhaps my situation is unique because of all of the crap I have running, it may be different for an average car with stock accessories. So once again it is really up to the preferance of the owner of what they are looking to get out of it.

i hear alot of u saying that the ud pulleys are the best bang for your buck. but are they the 3 piece or just one. ive seen both but not sure which one to get, or where to get.

what else can i get before i go turbo. i know a few said cams, udp,and something else. Im gonna get piece at a time. once i get my bills caught up saving money from my part time job will be noo problem.

whre do i get the stuff for the tuning,brands and what not. sorry im a newb, any links to there site so i can learn.

help me make my non turbo fast.

hey man...i'm pretty sure the only pulley we can get aftermarket for our car is the udp. atleast that's the only pulley i've heard tuners talk about for our n/t's. if i'm wrong please someone correct me! but the best udp to get is the af/x and it's practically cheap...compared to the one i bought, unorthodox. the udp releases a whole lot of lost power. it's very noticeable....good luck

is the only one the crank pulley

97eagletalonesi said:

is the only one the crank pulley

Click to expand...

yes

I know that the Ebay cold air intakes have a pretty good reputation for being a good product for the price, so I was just wondering if the underdrive pulleys that are 30-70 dollars are also any good. Any input of other good cheap products from Ebay will be appreciated. Also, do those claimed "20 HP" chips work at all and are worth it?

20 hp chips that go in to your intake im assuming, no they don't work. stupid little peice came out of a stereo or something, do not buy it. can say much about the underdrive pulleys. look at the feedback that was given to the seller.

I like to shop on ebay too, but get the one off www.howellautomotive.com, stuff like that you don't want cheap. It comes with the belts so you don't have to worry about which belt will fit. For $140 this item gives the best gains for your dollar.

Ahh, I was in this boat too. I was tempted to purchase one of those EBay UDP's too but after doing my research I found that I'm not gonna go cheap on an item like that and just get the AF/X UDP. Plus, the AF/X one differs from those other cheap-o's.

My AFX goes on today. I'll let everyone know about the butt dyno.

:laugh: ahhh the old butt-o-meter ive tested many a mod with my very own piece of "specialty equipment"