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PLX M-300 Wide Band Kit

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The WB sensor will go where the stock sensor resides, however, without the aid of the stock sensor the ECM will ahve trouble adjusting idle, cruise, part throttle. A second O2 bung dedicated for WB sensor is always recommended.
 
Originally posted by nocturnalracer
I am planning to get the m-300 but I had a question. Does the wideband 02 sensor screw where your old one is located or is there welding involved into your 02 housing?


Recommended sensor location is 18-25" from the turbine outlet. Anything closer will greatly reduce the sensors operational life.
 
i belive that the plx kit has a narrow band output, so you get the wideband clarity, but also an output to run into your ecu. I think this is a great idea cause you dont need to worry about a bung, and its a 300 dollar kit.
 
yeah, just use it to tune and use the narrowband output wired to your ecu and dont worry about the stock sensor, you can eliminate it at that point or just leave it in but unplugged.
 
this in effect becomes your stock sensor, replacing the stock one
 
The more expensive PLX family can datalog wireless. I went with the regular M300 version, and wired the 5 V output to my EGRT ECU line. This way I can datalog knock, timing, wideband readings all in one program. It's easier to make comparisons this way instead of referring to two seperate logging programs.
 
Did you install a 20 Ohm, 10 Watt load resistor to fake the ecu into thinking it was heating the stock o2 sensor so the check engine light won't come on, or do we have to do this on our cars? The instructions on the plx site said if your car has a 3 or 4 wire stock o2 then this load resistor should be done. We have a 4 wire stocker right? Also did you install the noise capacitors?
 
On my 90 Talon, I used a cheap O2 sensor with no heating element. The ECU didn't care.
 
ok so possibly on a 1g (91) it dosen't have a heating element wire? On the pin out scymatic it only shows one pin for the o2, or did I miss something? I guess I have to unplug the stocker and see how many wires are on the ecu side of the connection. I dont remember where I got my last stock o2 sensor but it has four wires. It may not actually use the four wires that the stock o2 sensor has visible. Anyone know for sure if a 91 has a heater wire from the ecu for the o2 sensor?

Also antero did you use the noise capacitors?
 
The 90 Talon uses 4 wire O2 sensor, and it did use a heater element in the OEM O2 sensor. I was cheap, and used a non-heater element version and regret that choice. Without the heater element, O2 voltages were lower than usual.

But the good thing from this experience was that the ECU didn't set off the check engine light with the heater element missing.

Yes, I did use the supplied capacitor. I had to use some extra wire to extend the lead of one of the capacitor legs so it could reach ground. In fact, I tied this ground wire to my existing ground wire so both ground wires have the same reference point. Soldering is the only way to go when it comes to making a good connection with a discrete component like the capacitor.

The capacitor is optional. It's job is to remove signal noise caused from long wire leads. So depending on your logger, you could offset the voltage in your software until both the logger and M300 display agree with each other. Or if your software doesn't allow an offset correction, do the corrections in your head when reading the numbers from your logger.
 
Thanks antero and yes I'm deffinatly doing the noise capacitors as well.

Ok, I bought the m300 "kit" that comes with everything including the o2 sensor. It's got like seven wires and is definatly a heated bosch sensor.

Anyway, What I really need to know is:
(#1) Is a 91 oem turbo o2 sensor heated?
And if so:
(#2) What is the power wire pin number at the ecu that heats the oem o2 sensor?

Because, I'm thinking about using the 20 Ohm, 10 Watt load resistor if I get the check engine light after I install the m300 this weekend. If it dosen't then I won't worry about it. I wanna be ready just in case the CEL does comes on. I can't stand when random lights are either on when they should be off or off when they should be on. Call me crazy but that's just me I guess. Hopefully it won't matter as in Antero's 1990 car's case. :thumb:
 
99.99% positive that the 91 will be a heated O2 sensor version.

You don't want a 10watt resistor inside your cabin. Too hot. If you do run into the "check engine" light problem, re-use your old O2 sensor. Wire it up such a way that the heater element is hooked up again... you'll just have to be creative as to where you can mount it.

This brings up the next point. Are you sure you want to mount the wideband O2 in the factory O2 location? It may be too hot. The wideband O2 sensor will fail at temperatures above 860 celcius. Because of this, I've mounted mine lower in the exhaust downstream where it will be cooler.
 
One good thing for 2G guys is to put it in the DP where the stock secondary O2 resides. No drilling, to mess, and there's even a hole already there to run the wire into the cabin. :thumb:
 
Just my 2cents. Getting a wideband that doesn't log isn't very useful. So you're going to be doing 3rd gear pulls, while looking down at a wideband, seeing if it dips and then trying to remember about where in the rpm range that was, along with not hitting anything or running off the road. OMG When I was looking at widebands, I wanted to go cheap at first; even the built it yourself cheap kit. But then I didn't trust how accurate some of those would read. I finally decided to go with the innovative LM-1 unit. It can show you instead a/f ratio like all the others. Plus log 45mins worth of data. PLUS (and a very big bonus) you can pipe in rpm's to log off of an inductive clamp (no splicing into any wires). So now I can look at the road when I do my pull, then pull up the rpm v.s. a/f ratio log on my 166mhz pos laptop in the passenger seat, and can see at what rpm points I need to adjust fuel.

I also added the exhaust clamp for the o2 sensor with my order. So I can put the unit on anyone's car. Inductive clamp on a spark plug wire, exhaust clamp with wideband o2 sensor in it attached to the tailpipe. I have lots of new friends now! I think I paid $480 for my setup (LM-1 unit, inductive rpm clamp, exhaust o2 sensor clamp, pc log viewing software.)
 
Blk_99gst
Just my 2cents. Getting a wideband that doesn't log isn't very useful.

Pockelogger is writing a new version of the datalogger that will log widebands.:cool: I'm one of the testers ( so is Antero ), the new version will be out soon.
I have decided to bung my downpipe and leave the stock o2 sensor just like it is.
It's to much BS dealing with all that eliminate the stock o2; besides I kinda wanna see what the stocker will say in reference to the wideband.
 
rtmx3 said:
Pockelogger is writing a new version of the datalogger that will log widebands.:cool: I'm one of the testers ( so is Antero ), the new version will be out soon.
If it's an update for the obd loggers, then having a 1g OBD1 pocketlogger log an additional value like the wideband wouldn't be much of a problem; you guys get crazy high sample rates. Isn't it like 30 or 40 samples per second. We 2g guys aren't that lucky. I see high sample rates of 17 or 18 samples per second. Other 97 and 96 cars only see 8-9 samples per second. We don't have enough sam/sec to log the important stuff like timing and rpm. Forget about logging something like a wideband signal at that low of a sample rate. Unless for 2g's you can log the wideband at a faster sample rate than OBDII values.

rtmx3 said:
I have decided to bung my downpipe and leave the stock o2 sensor just like it is.
It's to much BS dealing with all that eliminate the stock o2; besides I kinda wanna see what the stocker will say in reference to the wideband.
I agree on leaving the stock o2 sensor in there and comparing it to the wideband sensor.
 
Blk_99gst said:
I also added the exhaust clamp for the o2 sensor with my order. So I can put the unit on anyone's car. Inductive clamp on a spark plug wire, exhaust clamp with wideband o2 sensor in it attached to the tailpipe. I have lots of new friends now! I think I paid $480 for my setup (LM-1 unit, inductive rpm clamp, exhaust o2 sensor clamp, pc log viewing software.)[QUOTE/]


That is a pretty cool setup! I can use the plx to do the same just have to bung a pipe and not be able to datalog :( Oh well I bought it for me mostly anyway so I'm happy and my setup was about $150 cheaper. I probably would not have gotten the m300 if I couldn't datalog with it. Plx does have the m400 and 500 that will log, they log wirelessly. They are in the price range of what you paid but I don't think they have the exhaust clamp and inductive rpm clamp. 499 for the m500 and 469 for the m400 without the exhaust clamp and inductive rpm clamp. ( I just looked it up plxdevices.com) So the lm1 seems to be a good deal for 2g guys or guys that want to charge other people to tune their cars ;) .
 
Blk_99gst said:
Isn't it like 30 or 40 samples per second.

Well, on my 1G Stealth it gives me 59 samples/second. I forget the exact sample rate I used to get on my 1G Talons, but I think they were in the high 50's too. One major bonus, is we don't have to compare data from two seperate dataloggers. So us 1G guys are lucky.
 
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