I've purchased parts from MAP and sought advice. They've never disappointed me. They also do have a good reputation locally. They're good people and they know DSM's.
I just mixed and matched the bulbs in the rear to make sure the right ones were lighting up. I've heard you can swap out a control module in the dash for a 2GB one and have everything work perfectly.
Just call your local mitsubishi dealer and order a new BISS/Base Idle Screw with the O-Ring. It is literally just a screw that threads into that hole. There is an O-ring around the screw that forms an air tight seal. The screw turns in and out letting more or less air through to adjust your idle...
Worked fine for me!Actually, it doesn't necessarily work that well. If you have open diffs the friction of pressing/rubbing may be enough to stop whatever wheel you're working on. If you only have a read LSD you get stuck switching wheels from front to back to polish all four.Oh...and it's...
Yeah, airplane stripper. You'll probably need to apply it, let it soak, rinse it off and then use a plastic scraper or some other gentle instrument to get whatever is left off. Just be sure not to get any on the tires. It's very corrosive to any petrochemical based material.
Get a leak down test before rebuilding. It could be that the bottom end is in fine shape and it's just the head that needs work. In that case you'll save yourself a tom of time and money just having the head rebuilt.
No, to loosen the belt you loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner pulley. The bolt is off set from the middle so the pulley swings. When you want to retension there are two small holes in it to use the other tool on. You swing it up and towards the center (clockwise) to tension and the...
Sorry, no. I just have that one in my phone and my car is currently 45 minutes away. You really have only 2 options (That I consider reasonable anyway). Hack a hole through the metal where the coolant over flow bottle bolts (just passenger side of the radiator) and make a 90 degree bend off the...
I've never done it with the engine in, but it will be pretty hard to get the lower timing belt cover off with all that stuff in the way. You'll probably want to pull the alternator and really anything else that's in the way. I recommend looking at the VFAQ timing write up.
It shouldn't be a problem to go from 2.25 to 2.5"This picture isn't very clear, but you can see the piping come off the TB elbow and turn down at the front of the engine bay (turn 1). It drops about a foot and turns towards the front of the car (so the pipe goes through where the washer bottle...