No fuel leaks, its making it to the injectors and into the cylinders just fine. and im thinking of swapping ecus one of these days.

Ok so i have had my car running for a few weeks now, no real problems running, no knock during pulls and always started with ease!!!2G AWD with V3 7 bolt motor with 1G CAS and also running SD Cars just cleaned up, no major harness cutting or parts mangling. Only thing i have done to the...

If i pull the trans again the pivot ball and fork are definelty going to be replaced, and i am going to look at my pedal assembly one of these days. I work way to much to have time for dsm's haha.

OK so i have a 95 talon TSI AWD..... just put a old school 2900 lb clutch in that was in a buddies car for about 10 miles, basically brand new. The only problem is i cant get it into gear, im close but just cant seem to get the slave rod to move enough.Basically i have replaced every part...

Tim and i are basically down to the idea of pulling trans and taking a look, but flywheel is brand new, but it could be stepped wrong or PP could be hanging up... idk i will be pulling it today

The clutch disk and PP are from the same package, and a longer rod wont really help, it will basically do what my little pre load trick is doing now, in the end it will hold the fork out farther and lead to thrust bearing failure.

all done it doesnt matter where my rod is....

Ok so when my car is running i cant get it into gear.... 2g awd, Its a new rebuilt motor and stock trans, fidanza light weight flywheel, ACT 2900 clutch kit (was installed on another car for about 10 miles and worked flawlessly), shimmed the pivot ball as much as the previous set up was...

For reliability and power... go old school with the 12v cummins, it just cant be beat, they are million mile motors and proven in that!!!And those new turbo FORDS ARE GARBAGE, they make the same power as the v8's and get like a mpg better when using them for the purpose of a truck... if you...

I actually just measured resistance between the 2 power wires for the cas and cps on a 95 and there was none.... Meaning they are tapped from the same source at their origin. I actually wired in a 1g cas so I pulled back the wires in the harness to the other side of the VC, and I was expecting...

I understand that i just want to run the CAS only, just leave my CPS alone. I would imagine that i could just take the Red and Black from the 2g CAS connector instead of the CPS and power the 1g CAS.

Ok so I will be starting my car soon and I was planning on running a 1g CAS on my 2g, all 7 bolt components. But I decided to keep the Crank Position Sensor in place and just run that stock. So the ? is, is it possible to just go to a 1g CAS? and then how do I wire that seeing as how i know when...

Yea... NO, im pretty sure you can use the 1g sensor just fine, i am about to use the exact set up on my car. Thought i still have a 2g head i am wiring in a 1g CAS.

The fins of a 16g are spaced unevenly, your are all even so 14b

Yea i hope i can assemble my car by the shootout... I was pointed out to the fact that I have a little over 500 hours to do it seeing as my nice 12 hour night shifts 7 days a week... mmmmm overtime, so i will be lossing my in between sleep in a few days to start on it.... got customer cars to...