It couldnt hurt, just to be sure.

I meant that youd have to pull it up manually, it should come all the way back up on its own, the space that you have to manually pull the pedal up, would be about the same amount of space youd have to push the pedal in order for it to start pushing the rod if the z bar is worn or not snug in...

It sounds to me like an electrical issue, since the car runs fine cold, and only has issue after the engine is hot. try swapping out your cas with a known good one. It sounds like your timming is way off by the video.

It sounds like its a differential issue, either in the tranny, or in the rear end.

When you push the clutch in, and let off, how much can you pull the clutch pedal back up? it kinda sounds like the pedal assembly is the issue to me.Nevermind, I watched the video. I would say your assembly is going out. It isn't to hard to take out. I just had mine welded together and i...

Ive never had a problem with my $45 replacements form orielys, plus they are lifetime warranty.

You might have bent the OEM line and cracked it. One of the most common mistakes I've seen while removing/installing turbos with the oem line. I have had good luck with just using jb weld, or sliding a rubber hose over it and clapping it. Trying to run ss lines on stock turbos is kinda a pain...

Yes, pretty easy overall. You might have to get a little pissed at it and wiggle the crap out of it to get it to slide off though. Really the only advice i have on that.

I honestly do not remember, the machine work was done a little over a year ago.

They are bc, so practically a 272, and it's a junk turboxs t70.

I have 280 cams, I basically just cruise the car I've only boosted a handful of times. Im satisfied with its performance so far. Just thought I'd try something that not so many have tried before.

I had to get the rods machined so the wrist pin would fit. And the block had to be bored. That's all.

It was 100 all the way across last time I checked. I've debated about putting a decent shot of nitrous onto it expeacially to make up for the power lost at lower rpms. But I probably would never do that.

The car runs 100% fine, just a loss of power at lower rpm, which I don't mind, I've noticed it actually conserves gas a little better. And the car actually did jump timing, I took of the timing belt, reset ran just like it did before. I was just asking what y'all's thoughts were on the subject...

They should work fine with just a loss of horse power at low rpm, and a lower compression ration, which allows to run a higher psi safely, and would allow clearance for the valves to clear of the timing belt jumps or breaks.