Ahh I see where i messed up. I thought the lower arm used an eccentric bolt but it’s the trailing arm that uses it. My bad.

Would I have to order two kits? I’m just gonna see if I can salvage the oem bolts in the car first. If I can’t save the bolts I’m gonna try and see if I can’t adjust alignment good enough with regular bolts for free before dropping money on new bolts.

Well I haven’t found out if mine are salvageable yet 😂 I’m trying to order up everything before I start this project. If I can do without eccentric bolts then I will.

Anybody with experience know if the eccentric bolts are optional with adjustable volk arms? Rather save myself $80 if I can.

I have a few questions regarding shimming my rear differential pinion gear. I am currently rebuilding a 4 bolt rear diff and I have .015” backlash. Looking for maybe some reference on how much shim to add to the pinion.Also curios if this is a safe website to order a shim pack from...

Well I pulled the rear drivers axle out and what do ya know 😅I think I’ll be doing a 4 bolt swap when I can get my hands on one. But for now I’m gonna hunt down a 3 bolt axle. Thanks guys!

I had some time to swing by the garage today and jack up each wheel to see how they behaved while in gear. -Both front wheels rolled freely about an inch and then had resistance but could still rolled if I forced it. -Back passenger wheel same thing as fronts and I could see driveshaft turning...

Mine has LSD diff. I stopped by and looked at the axles. All looks good besides a newly discovered leak. Seems to be a clue something is wrong here because it never leaked from here before. I will drain it and pop the cover off tomorrow afternoon.

I have not tried to feather the throttle to get going any faster. Just seems to “slip” almost instantly.I will check the rear axles once I’m off work in an hour

I really don’t know in detail what is inside the transmission and transfer case. That’s why it’s hard for me to diagnose this issue. I figured clutch would be cheapest easiest fix so I went ahead and did it. My assumption is leaning on a bad center diff. It’s just weird that I can get rolling...

Brand new disk and pressure plate when I installed the old one. And both new pp and disk this time as well. Yes I verified both times when I had it resurfaced with a depth mic from my tool box at work that has been calibrated recently and his measurements match mine. Last time I had it...

Already did that. Here are pictures of all the components. I already replaced these items last weekend and my problem still persists.My clutch is adjusted properly as I can still push my slave towards the drivers side of the car.

I sent flywheel out for resurface, I bought a new act 2600pp and 6 puck sprung disk (same thing I was running at the track)and installed it over the weekend. I’m 100% certain it is not clutch related.Old Pressure plate had some heat spots but no failures from what I could see. Disk had seen...

I just got the transmission installed last night and checked it before I took it around the block. Fork sits slightly towards the drivers side in the window. There is no pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate.

I can get rolling but I can’t accelerate over 10mph if I had to guess. It’s so weird I’m really unsure what the issue could be besides inside transmission. Motor idles and behaves normal.