sorry, dumb question, i am new to dsm's...i got a turbo and manifold off a 1g laser at the junkyard, it was a 5 speed....the turbo looks in good question, i plan on using it for a custom setup on another vehicle.....it says TD05H on the side, which type is this...i see all these 16G and 14B...
i've had that happen before, its really annoying, the inner rim had rusted against the brakes....i just jacked up that side of the car, got underneath and started wailing around the edges of the rim, hitting it away from the vehicle, finally popped off, just make sure you spray wd40 on it so it...
why do you need to tap the rear balance shaft? can't you just cut it short as stated and throw away the rest, the vfaq websites says you don't have to worry about sealing up the rear shaft bearings for oil pressure's sake, just the front, which will be taken care of since i can leave that one in...
actually, let me rephrase that question, i don't want to remove either balance shaft, i just want to remove the balance shaft belt and jbweld around where the front shaft sprocket was, since for some crazy reason the bolt that holds the shaft sprocket on is broke off in the shaft, and i'm not...
i did a search for this problem, tried every suggestion first, when i lightly press the gas, the engine will rev smoothly (in neutral) all the way up the rpm band...when i go 50% or more though on the throttle, the car just completely bogs, like i slam into a rev limiter b/w 2500-3000 rpm....i...
i was removing the valve cover to retorque my head bolts, lost a bolt down into the cylinder, i am going to try a small magnet on a long thin wire to retrieve it, any other ideas...hehe, this has not been my day
concerning the timing marks on the cams, the haynes manual mentions that the exhaust cam tends to kick back a couple teeth when trying to line up the marks, the marks do not line up exactly, but they are parallel to each other along the valve cover line, one just a hair above the valve cover...
i finally got the engine started after my rebuild, it idles fairly well, but not great which makes me mad....there is alot of smoke from exhaust pipes as well as the engine bay, but there are no noticeable leaks on top anywhere, the oil pan is leaking slightly around the rtv sealant though...
well i took the battery to autozone and had them check it, turns out the battery had a short, so i am getting a new one, and also a second bolt to hold the starter on, hopefully that fixes the situation, it would explain why the car wouldn't start even with a jump i think, since the voltage...
try to follow the wires from the horn and find out where they lead, excluding the one that goes to the battery if it has one of those, just a matter of seek and ye shall find, its there......
ok, i've just finished my 1g rebuild and reinstalled the engine in the car along with all its components....the battery i had from the previous owner was a little suspect to begin with, but i had it on the trickle charger for few hours before we tried to start the car, gonna try and use it...
alright, this is my first time rebuilding an engine, i'm in the process of putting the bottom end back together on my 1g nonturbo....my concern before i put the oil pan back on is that the crank is too tough to turn, without any rods connected the cranks spins smoothly and easily....the pistons...
alright guys, i am currently rebuilding a n/a 2 liter 1 g non-turbo......this car already has 230k miles, and will be a reliable daily driver, not a race car!! i am looking to get it back on the road as soon as possible, as cheap as possible...i am replacing clutch, rod/main bearings...
i have been pounding at my cylinder head for hours, i have loosened all but 2 of my headbolts.....1 is stripped real bad, i tried a big drill and bolt extractor, broke the bolt extractor in half, the bottom half is still stuck in the head bolt, the other one just doesn't seem to budge, its also...