Unless your in at least the 12's a tial is overkill, a Tial bov on a basically stock car will cause lots of compressor surge and since it cannot be recirculated you would need to run a VPC or MAFT just to use it.
I also got couplers and clamps from hightempsilicon on ebay and they work great. Be careful with the sizing of the t-bolt clamps, I wound up ordering 3.25" clamps for my gm maf since the 3" ones I got didnt fit and I had to "persuade" the 2.5" clamps to fit my 2.5" IC pipes (shoulda got 2.75"...
ACT 2900lb clutch, fidenza flywheel, 6k rpm stutter, 6.5k no lift to shift... I dont use the stutter box very often anymore as it is pretty much pointless with my crappy tires but thus far nothing has broken on the times I have used it. Like said above the main objective is to slip the clutch...
A 16 valve head would remove one of the biggest restrictions the 1.8 has and if I was trying to make a 1.8l dsm fast it would probobly be the first thing I would look for. Larger valves and a P&P *might* help but it depends on the combustion chamber design. Larger valves tend to make it harder...
I didnt say it wasn't possible to do it, I just said that getting any 14 second et, much less a solid low 14 second et without expecting to have to upgrade to forged internals may turn out to be a dissapointing experiment.ginsu's car has forged internals...
I have the fuel rail inlet line that goes from the stock filter to the rail removing the banjo bolt as thats a very big restriction and the braided lines for the regulator. As of right now I am only running stock hard lines to the stock filter and back from the hard line on the firewall to the...
Hate to break this to you but even if your car only weighs 2800lbs with you in it, and your a very good driver, and you can get it to hook up, you would need to make 201 HP at the flywheel to turn a 14.9 If you wanted to run a 14.1 you would need 237HP at the flywheel.The chances of being...
Are you using braided line? I just slipped the braided line over the steel line, leaving the tape that was on the end of the braided line from cutting it there so it wouldnt fray and used a normal worm clamp. Seems to work ok and doesnt leak.
I removed all the wiring, the g-sensor (sensor on the seat belt bracket under the rear seat), wheel speed sensors, and of course the pump itself. Removing the wiring is a bit overkill as you have to slice open other harnesses to completly remove it but I had nothing better to do with my time ;)
If your spark plugs are loose they will build pressure inside the plug well and pop the wires off. Bad plugs may let some excess pressure vent through them as well.The CEL may have come on because of a detected misfire when it was running bad.