Your ECU is in definite need of repair as it has quite a bit of damage from electrolyte leaking from the caps. It looks like it has already been fixed once by the pic due to the tantalum capacitor that was added . Wait for ECMTuning to get back with you if you don't want to buy a good ECU , and...

I've been doing quite a bit of work with the 1g 3 plug TCU's, but utilizing the M673 ROM image(AWD), and have compared the M674 ROM image(FWD Turbo). I can tell you that for the most part that by comparing the two images within TunerPro, they are almost exactly identical.I know this to be true...

A/D is an abbreviation for analog to digital. I think what big_d was hinting at is that the ground trace to IC101 may be questionable. You can check it by checking for continuity on IC101's pin 13, and all of the ground pins on the ECU.I would check the resistance of the ISC coils, and its...

Considering you hit a huge hole, you probably jarred something loose. First, I'd check to make sure the connector for the blower fan speed is still seated. Then move on to the relays for the blower motor.

All of the info I have has come from DSM-ECU Yahoo group, which can easily be found there by searching(not trying to be rude). There is quite a bit of information regarding TCU tuning, including the shift tables for ECO/Power modes which are easy to find in the code.I used the disassembly...

Not trying to start an argument here, but help you up your post count constructively through discussion. :)I will agree that using a shift box does offer versatility since you can switch between the TCU, or the shift box, and you have the option of using different style shifters(IE...

Not knocking anyone's product, but "Different strokes for different folks".Almost all of the variables, and constants can be changed within the TCU code, even the downshift thresholds for manual mode with the TCU.

Just in case anyone else is looking for the numbers, who don't have, or can't download CAPS/ASA; here are the actual part numbers for the bolts I think you're talking about. If you need more just say so.

Your best bet is to download and install CAPS/ASA, and find the part number for the bolts you need, and then order from the vendor of your choice or the dealership. http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/Or, you can look at the screenshot, pick the ones you need, and I'll get the part numbers you...

It sounds like you have the wrong connector. The FSM shows the stop light switch as having green/white, and green as the wire colors. The clutch switch should be green/black, and black according to the manual.Also, for some background information regarding NLTS, and Stutterbox for your...

This isn't the greatest quality picture, but it should answer your question.

You're welcome.I would ask them if their standard socket is the same one offered with the Honda chipping kit. If so I would pass since the socket pictured in that kit is not a high-quality machine-tooled collet-pin socket like the ones that Moates sells, or similar from Digi-Key as suggested...

I use the same sockets that Moates.net stocks. Here's a link:D2 28-pin DIP SocketAlso, here's a link that may be of some help for doing the socket work: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/266472-socketing-eprom-ecu.html

Perhaps I didn't explain clearly enough.Using an ECU with a M/T bin will only allow/give the value from the "Park/Neutral" idle speed table (which has the same values as the M/T bin) to be accessed for park, neutral, and drive. When you place the shifter in drive you are putting load on the...

Technically the A/T and M/T ECU's hardware is the same, and it's the bin that is different, which determines the difference in configuration. For example, I'm using a M/T ECU with the E932(A/T) bin.Here is a screen shot from the XDF that I converted to line up with the A/T code(disregard my...