I just changed out my thermostat in effort to complete the overhaul of my cooling system and see lower temps here in hot ass Florida. I swapped out my 180*F thermostat and discovered it was stuck open, so my car was always being fed coolant. I guess this is why my car would take a good 10...

In the classifieds about 6 months ago someone was selling a custom ram air headlight. It was the absolute CLEANEST mod I've ever seen for CAI or ram air on any dsm. Not only did it look awesome, the headlight remained completely functional! It was NOT the one with a plastic cover in the corner...

When I'm cruising my voltage is great, right around 13.5. Even at idle I stay well in the 13s as long as I'm not running headlights or using turn signals, or anything else that draws more power. The a/c is the biggest drain of all so I avoid using it because it drops my rpms by about 40% at...

Right. I already have a high output alt. According to the computer diagnostic printout it came with, it outputs 165A @ 1800 rpm and roughly half that at 900 rpm. My idle in dsmlink is 950 rpm and rock solid. My normal voltage with no accessories on is 13.6 to 13.9v.I use my Apexi TT to...

The Unorthodox Racing lightweight pulleys are the same dimensions as stock, just 50 to 80% lighter. And lower rotational mass equals less parasitic loss (load on engine with the more accesories used, ie a/c). Less rotational mass means the pulleys will be able to drive the belts easier...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but it is my understanding that the balance shafts (which I have eliminated) are only to reduce engine vibration for ride quality and have nothing to do with engine balance, which the oem crank pulley/balancer is for. Otherwise, it would be very unwise for...

Hm, that fluidampr crank pully is half a pound heavier than stock. I think I'm going to go with a much cheaper and lighter oem one. I wonder why anyone "upgrades" to that if the oem one is typically good for 80k to 100k miles?

I've just been informed that getting their crank pulley wouldn't be good on a dsm. I'll stick with stock for that, but all the rest is a go! :thumb:

On their site they say they offer two types of setups. Normal belt setup for people with all accessories, and a setup for people who removed the a/c...which offers the most weight savings up to 90% over stock.They have dyno results on their site and state the following:Therefore by...

Dee, you are the MAN! You probably just solved all my electronic issues as I am ordering that bad boy pronto. You likely also solved all these peoples' problems here:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=151227254#post151227254Oh and just noticed you're a wiseman now, grats...

I have a 165A Alterstart alternator that is almost new. I also have issues with so much draw on my optima yellow top from so many aftermarket parts and custom cooling system that my voltage is unstable. I can't use my a/c without the a/c belt sapping the speed of my alternator pulley's...

I figured out the problem...the a/c condensor pulls over 1v from the alternator's output at equal rpms. When the a/c belt activates it slows the alternator pulley, thereby resulting in a drop in rpms and thus a drop in the output of the alternator. You can see this in action by monitoring rpms...

Nothing to do with ISC in my case. My ISC is the brand new black one from DSMISC.com. Idle rock solid.Ok, after monitoring this problem some more I have connected the problem to a large dip in voltage when the a/c is turned on... -1 volt to be exact. What I suspect is when my voltage plunges...

90A is so paltry I don't know why anyone would replace an alt with another one with so little juice. Alterstart sells several much more potent alts; mine is 165A. Same casing, lifetime guarantee.

Are you auto? If yes, then you can vent because the throttle plate is always open through the gears. Otherwise, yeah, what everyone else said.