I'm having some issues myself, what ground wire was frayed?? The knock sensor wire or another one??

You know where I can get one cheap?? Auto Zone wants $187 for a new one. Youch.

Will do, what would explain the fact that the noid light doesn't pulse when connected to the injector pigtail?? Could a bad injector cause the ECU to go gunny bag???Measured the resistance between the two poles on the injector itself, completely open, not making any sort of resistance like...

Measured it right after it was not firing #2 injector, and all of the pins came out around 5.6-5.7 ohms. It has 12v on both sides of the injector plug, could it be the ECU not closing the circuit??

After it was failing, it had cooled down a bit. I'll try and get the problem to repeat itself and then test it immediately afterward and see if it is still reading around 5.6 ohms. If it is bad, where do I get a new one?? Is it a dealer only part??

Bone stock '91 Eagle Talon TSII'm having a bit of an intermittent problem. #2 injector likes to stop working after the engine warms up and is driven and then shut down; hop in car, run to store, turn off engine, come back, start it up and the car's running on 3 cylinders. After everything...

Interesting. Rock Auto, National Bearing, and a rep from Timken all were swearing that that should be an open bearing. I kept saying no. Your own pictures show a sealed bearing. :banghead::banghead:Are you a parts vendor?? If so, and if you are sure you can get the right bearing, let me...

Sounds like good advice. Especially since my luck so far has been 0 in 2.I'm glad I did call, I'm on hold right now, but I had the parts person call National with that part #511014 and they told her it was an open bearing not a sealed bearing, even though the picture on Rock Auto's site is...

Well I just ordered a National bearing #511014 from Rock Auto. I'll keep my fingers crossed that I actually get the correct bearing.

That's what I thought after the first one, but then when the second one came and it was the same as the first I thought the odds of that happening 2 times in a row were pretty small.

So I needed to replace the wheel bearings on the rear passenger hub. I ordered 2 timken bearings and the oil seal from Autozone. The outer was fine, I removed a sealed bearing and got a sealed bearing. Then I go to open up the box of the inner bearing and I pull out a bearing that is not...

Will do, now I have a used ECU coming and want to make sure that I'm not going to plug it in and just pop it like the old one. Is there anything in particular that I should test prior to plugging in the new ECU so that I don't end up with an expensive paperweight??? I tested the ISC for...

Yeah I think so too. Can I send you the ECU and have you take a look at it?? Maybe you can tell me what went wrong??? I'd hate to put a new one in only to have it go belly up because of a bad electrical problem.

You know the other odd thing I noticed was that when I had ECU #2 plugged in, when I turned the key on, the MPI relay would click on, stay on for about 3-5 seconds and then would click off, and then the ECU #2 would quit communicating with my Palm. I would then get the ECU comm error. However...

Where would you find the injector resistor pack??? I'll need to read up on the testing procedure for that. The car won't start right now, but when it was running before, from MMCD the voltage was usually right around 14.2-14.4 volts. Well I guess that might rule out the ISC, I didn't take it...