For Sale. 1G cylinder head, Freshly rebuilt and upgraded with Supertech single valvesprings and Ti retainers, Supertech Black Nitrided intake valves, Supertech Inconel exhaust valves, Supertech valvestem seals. New bronze valve guides, 5 angle valve job, resurfaced with a fine finish for MLS...

I'm surprised at the number of members in this thread who joined the forum in 2002. There's a lot of familiar names here. So I had to drop in to say Hi. I got my first DSM the week after I graduated from college, it was a 1990 Laser that I bought in 1994. I don't have a DSM anymore but somehow...

For Sale, rebuilt T-case from a 92 Talon. This was my spare T-case, it was removed from the car when it was stock with just 92k miles on it, then it was rebuilt with new seals, New 23 spline input shaft, and shimmed a little tighter to hold more power. Never used, it's been on the shelf. It's a...

You threw me off when you said you plan to go 145mph, that's a little slow for a highly modified 1/2 mile car. I went 173 when my DSM made around 750, so if you make around 650 in a FWD that'll put you around the 160+ MPH range. At those speeds it's important to have at least an OEM wing on the...

Aim for .0025" for both rods and mains.

Get these, it's the right diameter and they fit stock rims. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=D.O.T.+Drag+Radial+2&sidewall=Painted%20White%20Letters&partnum=25R6DDR&tab=Specs Why are you still on stock rims if you have such a big build everywhere else?

I wouldn't go bigger than .0035". I've run as tight as .0020 on mains and rods and it did great at over 650AWHP and 9200 rpm rev limit. Also, you can mix bearings to adjust the clearance in fine increments. For example, if you want to tighten the rod clearance by .0005, use the King +.001 on...

I also use a standard bearing splitter and a press. Some of the tighter gears are removed in pairs, such as 3rd gear and the 3/4 hub with the sleeve for 4th. Also, the small bearing on the input shaft is tough to remove. I typically cut two grooves in it with a dremel, then the bearing splitter...

+1 on heim seals, aka dust covers. I use them and they keep out the rain and grit.I had straight upper arms on my car for 3 years with no problems, plenty of clearance. It was set up fairly stiff with moderate drop tho.

For Sale, 1G DSM rooftop bike rack. Fork mount, fits any bike with a quick release front wheel; road bikes, track bikes, fixxie, and some mountain bikes. $150 OBO

IIRC the input shaft spec is .000 to .004" freeplay, while the other shafts need preload. I've built it with a few thou preload on high power builds and it works fine. If it's too tight it will be hard to get into first gear when the car is stopped.

Hey Brian! How's it going? I know a guy who just swapped his out. They're full trailing arms with GVR4 4 lug hubs, good axles and bearings. I'll get in touch and see if he still has them.

Where did you measure the piston? It should be measured on the skirt level with the bottom of the wrist pin.It can be difficult to measure with digital calipers, it's best to use a micrometer. Another way to measure PTW clearance is to use a feeler gauge. Simply place the feeler gauge...

Yes, remove and replace from the center out, follow the tightening sequence. I'll torque the ARP's down to 60 Ft-lbs when I first install them, after they're all installed I'll go back and torque them down to 90.

I've used Eagle cranks on a few builds, they're good cranks BUT they must be prepped and installed by an experienced engine builder. They must have the internal oil passages cleaned, the screw plugs must be checked and locked into place, and the oil clearances must be measured and adjusted...