FP manifold works well with a 16g. Having it ceramic coated and adding some type of heat shield to it makes a huge difference. It does push the power slightly up higher but it works great with the EVO 3 intake manifold and a decent set of cams. That would make a solid 350 w.h.p. with some...

It would be hard on the engine. At that power level I broke a clutch spring and also had what felt like crank walk before I parked it permanently. That setup had maybe 30-40k miles on it (+140k miles). A torque limited tuning would definitely have improved the reliability but the E316g wasnt...

It's kinda trick though. You drive up off of I-64, then turn off and down 2 blocks down a side street. It's right next to a bunch of houses and about 1 block before the tracks. You would think it's sitting near the tracks because that is Industrial Area, but it's 1 block before that in the...

They are a little hard to find, smack dab in the middle of a bunch of houses. It has (2) big garage bay doors and a little front office.

I had them deck the block surface. It was 1-2 days maybe $100. Work was perfect.

I can definitely say APEX is not the machine shop you want to use.....absolutely you don't want to use them.I waited 4 months for my block and had to beg them to finish it every month. They block sanded my engine deck surface and only honed to size the bores instead of actually boring them for...

KBB blue book value is $1300 to $3290 in that range in decent condition. Typically that is the going rate. if there are rusting strut towers that would be a hard pass as that's a serious safety issue. A GSX would be a whole other story depending on condition but those are going for ridiculous...

Thermal is definitely up there as one of the better exhausts. Definitely a muscle car refined sound. Mine was good for about 400 w.h.p. even with the neck down at the cat.

Removing a bearing destroys it, the proper way to remove it is whatever it takes to get it off the shaft without damaging the shaft. I've cut bearing cages in half to get access to the bearing inner race to pull on it. You can only install a press bearing (1) time because the way it's removed...

First, the shops have the FIXES for the failure modes. The revised shift forks and stronger shift forks too, double/triple synchro conversions you could never possibly do at home because they modify the transmission, shot peening, all that good stuff. This tends to greatly improve the high rpm...

Shot peening isn't needed for a stock build, no. Preload axial to the gears, the taper bearing preloads. The service manual goes into detail about it.I assume you have the service manual?

Yeah, I check-in from time to time. Any of my DSM knowledge is foggy these days but it's coming back. Bought an EVO X back in 2016 so kind of enjoying being back in a Mitsubishi. That's my summer only car but it moves pretty good, about 340 w.h.p. From time to time I wish I could get a DSM...

Keep in mind you have to measure the gear preload, little bit tricky but you have to nail it. If nothing changes, the same size shims can be used.....maybe. You start pressing bearings in and off and you may need to resize the bearing race shims. Just saying. Any slop in the gear stacks...

That's a good guess as well. Keep in mind the shift fork and how it works tends to squeeze out any lubrication, not totally surprised they wear out. Resting your hand on the shifter wears the shift fork pad, which is aluminum riding on the steel hub slider groove which rotates within it...

That is the dogteeth on the gear flank, it's cast into the gear although it looks seperate....it's one piece. See the "arrowhead" shape, well that get ground to a nub when the synchro wears out and doesn't properly slow the engagement. The synchro is sitting in-line with it ready for the...