i originally wanted moderate power (with moderate costs) so i went with the 16g, but now that i've gone through two BS 7bolts, i decided to go all the way (that my budget allows) and do a built 2.3 6bolt. I'll eventually go up to some ball-bearing turbo that is streetable, but not quite yet.
sorry this thread has been dead for a while (i used the search), but i'm actually doing the exact same setup very soon!I'm using mahle pistons, eagle rods and all arp stuff with the 2.3 6bolt, b-shaft eliminated. *I'm leaving the head stock, putting in 650cc injectors, safc/blow-thru setup...
the other day i left my parking lights on while at work, my battery died and i jumped my car. now my greddy TT's blue display is always on, but it doesnt actually work, none of the buttons do anything.i tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the neg. battery terminal, that didnt fix it...
ehh don't worry about Defiant, he has a tendency to disagree with just about everyone. i'd assume that a product sold by nearly all the biggest import aftermarket companies would be useful. i know for a fact that i get use out of mine since my dsm is a daily driver. when im late for work, i...
sorry to stop the good vibe of this post, but most people on these boards haven't tried more than one aftermarket fmic... so i dunno how useful this poll really is. ask some dsm/tuner shops, theyve likely seen many different cores/setups and could give a more weighted opinion. they also have...
my friend and i were in a '92 camry (4cyl) and we rolled up next to some grungy-ass looking guy in a green geo metro with flame stickers on the side, his donuts were maybe 2-3 inches thick. we looked over and kinda nodded at him. green light. the guy's front tires make the cutest little squeak...
psyche! but seriously, my engine crankwalked, the guys at the shop here in minneapolis (who specialize in DSMs mostly) said it's the worst case of it they'd ever seen. you could actually move the crank back and forth with your hand, it would VISIBLY move. :laugh: at the point they told me...
i put an act 2600 on my 2g m/t tsi last summer and now it's walking... only 100k miles total. im swapping the motor for one off an A/T tsi next week (80k miles), so hopefully this one wont walk or wont walk as fast =/there was a time i thought i was safe from CW... then i started modding...
it fluctuates very slowly between .05 and .08v. i just ordered a Bosche replacement from SBR, only $80 with shipping, unlike the Mitsu part, which is $120. ill post again to let people know if it was really a bad o2 (i hope it is).
still on the stock TOB. ive read a million threads about people having bad TOB's because their clutch would rattle when NOT engaged and would stop rattling when the clutch was engaged. my problem is just the opposite and im wondering what it is exactly :(
Ive been having a few clutch related issues lately and im hoping a new clutch fork will fix them.1. with the clutch engaged, i hear a steady rattling noise in the lower driver's side of the engine.2. every so often (mostly when it's cold out or i havent driven the car in a while) ill...
can anyone please help me out? i dont wanna spend $100+ on a new o2 sensor if im not sure that's the problem :(. i know a bad o2 will result in bad gas mileage, but ive also heard that it messes up part-throttle driving, but it's my full-throttle driving that's hurting...