No, absolutely not. You have to have it on higher boost (idk, like more than 6psi) rigs to keep back blast from chattering your turbo to pieces. When you let off the gas and slam that throttle plate shut, all the air pressure that you've compressed after the turbo that is inside the intake...

So, in my case, I have to really work to spool the turbo outside of second gear. At idle I have to wrap it decently (3-4K) before punching it up towards redline to get enough spool to throw the BOV. But really though, if it idles fine, you've probably got wires in the right order. If it's...

I'm going to go with Tony and Marty on this one. You should have a hose coming off your valve cover, left hand side, going to the intake right after the MAF that will bring oil vapor that condenses in the intake/turbo area. If you remove the section of piping, like Tony pointed out, it's the...

Good luck, have fun, report back so we can learn too! The 90's were a crazy time... Head knowledge is like gold around here and hearing what someone else has run into is extremely useful.

Most excellent, my dude! If the BOV has been changed, the obvious (to those of us that have been smashing knuckles under these hoods for a while anyways) places to start would be the recirculation system, the BOV gasket/O-ring, and the BOV vacuum line from the intake. The 4G63 is designed to...

Dang! No second/third DSM for us haha! glad the addition of sound dampening material helped! The kilmat is the urethane backed aluminum stuff, right? What thickness did you use?

Ooooohhhhh booooooyyy...... Welcome to the club! It's definitely an experience. Can you expand on the "doesn't feel right"? If it runs, you've probably got plug order correct.

I second this motion, but since I'm closer, you should donate it to my cause! :DBut in all seriousness, coat the wheel wells with the rubberized undercoating they sell in a spray can at most auto stores. Use something like FatMat or Dynomat on your floor pan, under the rear seat, and...

I'm going to second this motion. The only differences between these cars is in the body style. Motors and electronics are identical. I've had a 95 Talon TSI and now a 99 Eclipse GST and everything under the hood seemed the same.Edited: See next post for clarification!

Tracking. I'll chase the ground down here when it warms up a smidge.Duh, ohms law. I should have run the math first, you're right.I'll get after extra grounding from the battery as well. At this point, I have a laundry list of things that need fixed now that it is running, but at least it's...

Man, I totally forgot about the wayback machine. That archive is so cool.I'm pretty sure I don't have the master rod adjusted properly. There is definitely about an inch of movement before there is a sort of pop feeling where it starts to engage the cylinder, then another inch or so before it...

Sad day. The link is broken. In having an issue with the clutch pedal not coming all the way back up after a shift. It's disengaging the clutch correctly and there is no slip once the pedal is out, but you have to pull the pedal back up to the top of the travel.

21 ohm from black and white wire on E-36 to one of the bolts for the seat belts in the back. 8.5 volts at E-36 across the terminals while cranking with a battery voltage of 11.6 volts. It was cold this morning and that battery is on its last legs. Due for an Optima red top soon!Either way...

No FP test connector for pump out? No problem!

I rearranged the grounding from the battery terminal to shock tower post to firewall post where all the harness grounds connect. Then, I figured I'd check the resistance on the ground at E-36, then realized I'm pretty tall, I can probably push the clutch, hold the multimeter contacts and turn...