^ Thank you sir. I will hopefully be ready to pull the spyder into the garage in the coming week, and drive out under awd the following week.Thanks to everyone that wrote a write-up, and who answered my questions.
Oh I get it now, so the AWD rear bolts go where the FWD rear bolts are removed from, BUT the front bolt location is different than the FWD location! I get it. So, me pulling the front AWD bolts was a waste of my time?Thanks guys.
I have been tearing apart my AWD donor car and have been memorizing the AWD swap write ups. the only part that throws me through a loop is the front bolts for the Spyder. The hole in the side of the frame rail, in the wheel well, seems like it would not yeild any easy way to remove the bolt...
According to all of the write-ups, you can't get to the front bolts via the top, and I was under the impression that the OE bolts were recommended most over aftermarket bolts.
I am doing all of the work, and my biggest issue is going to be the subframe bolts; the holders seemed pretty rough to get out of the AWD shell, trying to do it neatly in the spyder seems like it is going to be difficult.
I guess the right thing to do here is to start with a back story.I was sitting at work (Mitsubishi parts) and recieved a phone call from a kind old lady; she says that she wrecked the front of her car and doesn't want to see it go to the junkyard. I told the lady that I would gladly come take...
Not quite sure what this means, or to whom it is directed towards.A bad radiator cap would fail to pressurize the cooling system allowing the coolant to become less resistant to boiling. In this case the coolant will evaporate, and possibly overflow from, well, the overflow bottle.