Make sure you check the "engine" fuse which I think is like a 120 amp screw-in type fuse that completes the charging path from the alternator. It is towards the front of the engine well fuse box.
You can piece a kit together or go with some solid 420a full kits like Hahn Racecraft (which is the one I installed on my 420a about 2 years ago on stock internals): Hahn Racecraft - Automotive Turbosystems
You wont need to re-tune the ecu....the ecu will not know that it is boosted and will...
If you plan in doing this yourself, you should equip yourself with a DMM meter to verify voltage.This post has the information (although he was wiring up an alarm)...
Your problem is going to be between the horn switch in the steering wheel and the wire line to the horn . Your horn has the hot lead already ran to it. You operate it by closing the circuit and giving it a ground to complete the circuit. If you try and dig into the steering wheel, be careful not...
The only thing that regulates that voltage is right there on that Alternator (unlike my 420a where the ECU regulates it so I had to replace the ECU when I started charging at 15 - 16 volts and blew the battery all over). Belt slippage you would hear at the same time you see a fluctuation.
The air diverter you are talking about is most likely inside the finder for the side mount intercooler on the turbo models. The finder will fit fine on N/T models...
Something is funky with your wiring then. Power for that circuit should be removed when the key is turned off position. I would start out with a DMM and check for continuity/power across that fuse point with the key removed.
Well 420a's are a little different. 420a's cold idle pressure is around 72 psi and will get up around to 90 PSI under load (after the engine is warm idle pressure will be around 40 psi).Did your oil light ever come on from lack of pressure? It sounds like you do have either a blockage or...