Yeah this is a completely different problem. You might want to start a new thread for it even, so more people can help you out. Our problem here was that the white ignition wire on pin 1 wasn't carrying enough current and causing all sorts of weird intermittent problems with all devices that...

The autozone alternator test really only rules out catastrophic failure of the voltage regulator, and isn't a good indicator of a bad alternator. I'm thinking mine's probably toast, but it also tested fine when I took it out this summer when I moved it and the car wouldn't hold a charge. Ended...

Blaze, you're not alone. I pulled my DSM from storage. It's been sitting about a full year now, and I've only started it a few times to move it around. It's currently sitting in my garage and I found a buyer last night. Car fires up fine with a brand new battery and runs like a champ, but power...

I just fixed it, I think. Even though my coilpack tested perfectly, I replaced it anyway. Car runs like a dream now: no more twitchy tach, no more constant fuel cut above 2000 RPM, no more 18:1 on the logger after 10PSI.I can't believe it never threw a CEL amid all these problems.

Just grabbed a log of the bucking, keeping the throttle steady to cruise in 2nd gear. Spikes at 10,000 RPM while InjOn drops to 0ms. Is this how fuel cut looks on a log? It sure feels like it. It only does this for about 5 minutes of driving when the car is cold, then slowly subsides as the car...

Rather than post a new topic that fits under this thread I'll just put my problem here:For months, I've had a stutter that does not throw a CEL, and does not show knock. It used to only happen when I went over around 10PSI. Then it started happening out of boost, around 3500 - 4000 RPM. Not...

I'm not sure, but when I shut the car off after it was overheating, the fans were running at the time, so it works as normal.Anyway, I fixed the issue. I jumped the gun on the diagnosis of "radiator death" because I had one fail 3 weeks ago. All I saw was that vaporized coolant was...

I can turn on the fans through DSMLink, so that should mean everything's good.

Yes, the car's a daily driver. I stopped checking the fluid level after a few days of it not going anywhere. I figured I was safe. When I replaced the cap/thermostat, I burped the system the best I could with the car running. I capped it off when it was full and no more bubbles showed up.The...

Tonight the car overheated on the way home from work. I pull over and the reservoir is dry. A squeeze of the upper hose suggests that it's also bone dry. There is white residue all over the radiator.3 weeks ago the same thing happened: radiator puked coolant all over the engine bay. The...

Yeah I kinda ran out of daylight today and will be checking some more things out as the week progresses. I wanted to get some input on what I've inspected so far so I hopefully have some fresh ideas when I get back to work. The next course of action is going to be unbolting the crank angle...

Here's how it started: Awhile back I posted a thread about my coil pack harness getting wound around my axle and getting yanked out. I repaired the harness and the car drove fine since then, except when I got over 10# of boost, the car would bog like crazy and I got no power. Didn't feel like...

A fellow DSMer suggested blacking out the top part of the taillights. I couldn't picture it so I threw up a (very quick) chop. No ragging on my skills here ;) . Just post your impressions. I already have the center section painted.

Ran down and took note of the wire colors...Top part of plug: black/white blue/red blue/blackBottom part: blue red blue/blackI just need to know what wires on top correspond to the ones on bottom as one side plugs into the other. Thanks.

I need the pinout for both sides of the coil pack harness plug as well as which connects to which. The wires on one side got yanked out of the plug (story below) and I need the pinout of both plugs to be able to match them up again. I'll likely have to buy an aftermarket 3-prong plug and redo...