Looks very similar to a DNP, but without the nameplate. Do you have a picture of the collector?

Awesome! So it was just a case of parts getting mixed in the wrong box, thanks so much!

So about a year and a half ago I was at the track and had a little whoopsie moment when I flat shifted (yay DSMLink) from third to fourth and, in fact, hit second instead of fourth. The upshot of all this is that the rear end took one for the team and needed to be replaced. Then life got in...

Just from giving those shots a once over here what I seeLeft and right poly motor mounts (as said by stuckwithgsx)Tial 44mm V-band wastegate and Tial BOV (very good shit)DNP or equivalent tubular exhaust manifold (decent, not the best but not terrible, watch for cracking)Hard to tell...

Here's mine.<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/1/2/3/7/drag_racing.jpg" alt="Staging Lanes" /><img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/1/2/3/7/img_0373.jpg" alt="Img 0373" /><img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/1/2/3/7/156Mitsatthetrack9-22-06.jpg"...

Those are definitely some good things to check out, but the cams are having some effect as well. How are your airflow numbers now comparing to what they were before? More air with the same fuel will make you lean.

I had a similar issue with my old head and an OEM metal head gasket. It would push coolant no matter what under boost, turned out the head was warped. A quick and dirty way to test this is by emptying the overflow tank and then going for a ride without getting into boost, then checking the...

If you want to use something a little more purpose-built, there is an OEM O2 housing to turbine stud that is the correct size and is fairly short. I use 4 of these with a FP3052 and DNP tubular mani with good results, it's still kinda a pain in the ass but its not too bad.

VFAQ is your friend. It was one of the first real good resources for DSMs and has most simple and some more complex jobs detailed very well. A tip for the head: there are two hoist points connected to both the intake and exhaust manifolds. If you can get your hands on an engine hoist...

Do you have an E3 O2 housing? If so, that's the problem right there. I know RRE once made a downpipe that avoided that problem, but as you already have a DP it doesn't help you. You can run it that way, we did, and it ended slowing chewing through the flex section. For us it didnt matter as...

You don't want to do that, it would negate all the work and money you've put into the system. You need to think of the fuel system like an electrical circuit. Any resistance (restrictions) impede the entire system. Similarly, a small diameter hose that runs for six feet has much more resistance...

Haha, I love threads like this. I generally don't like to talk costs outside of PMs, but I'm getting swamped, so let me answer some of the questions I saw:Any decent upholstery shop can do our interiors. You might want to pick one that has done more modern cars before, because unlike hot rods...

Highly recommended. You can build a kit yourself, but the FP kit is fantastic and worth the money IMHO. Well built and a snap to install. It will take you an hour at most, with most of that time being spent routing the wire.

Those of you bashing Honda radiators have literally no idea what you're talking about. They're often used in higher hp larger turbo cars for fitment issues. Do a search on here or on the Link forums and you'd be surprised by what cars are running Honda or Scirocco half-sized radiators. Now...

Looks like a pretty good setup to me. I would keep the boost down until you get larger injectors and the means to control them. Are you on NeWEngDsm.org/forums? The local club is pretty active and knowledgeable, its definitely worth getting on that forum and introducing yourself. See you at...