Does your check engine light turn off after a couple seconds after cycling the key to on? If it doesn't your chip might need to be replaced. I had that issue after buying a used Ecmlink V3 which had the chip put on backwards. I send it in a got a new one replaced since it was fried.

Pistons and rods have sold

Price drop on rods and pistons 540+ pp and shipping and new picture on whats missing on the engine mounts

I don't know what your budget is but I would look into aluminum subframe bushings. I Found them easy to install but that's because I had all the tools to do the job.

New 6 bolt JE piston comp ratio 8.5:1 .20 over and New 6 bolt Manley H beam connecting rods. $600+ shipping and pp feesNew 2g m/t Avid racing engine mounts, bought from extremepsi and 6 months later when I finally put everything back together noticed how one of the mounts was missing the...

On my 6 bolt block there was a VIN stamped on the side where the transmission bolts onto the engine. Look under the thermostat housing, I'm not sure if all 6 bolts were stamped.

Is it auto or manual? If it's manual check out the clutch and flywheel apart from that spyderdrifter got about everything. I'm pretty sure you can find a complete rebuild kit with most seals and gaskets, GL!

Was this going on before you bought the new ecu? I've had problems with new ecu's not functioning on other cars. Put a noid light on the injectors and see if their all pulsing and if they're not go back and check your sensors.

Try a diesel parts store or shop

Support community vendors +1 for archer fabrication or bsfab

If you cant see the pins on the cams then take them off make sure they are pointing up, take the spark plug out in cyl #1 and put a screw driver down to check to see if it's at tdc.

I would check to see if the timing is correct, then I would check for fuel or spark. Does it have 2g cam and crank sensors? or 1g cas?

We're the coils you replaced new? or used? Check your injector connectors to make sure they're all plugged in. Try putting in your old coils and see if the car runs.

Car looks pretty rough! I wouldn't buy it. If you do decide to buy make sure your committed to it especially when you know it's going to need a lot of tlc. I'm almost done with mine and it was a... pain, especially with no help. Better have enough elbow grease

I would personally drop the transmission and engine together, I would also change out the rear main seal ( behind the flywheel) just so you wont have to go in again in a while. You can either take a tie rod off or pop the control arm out either way it shouldn't be too hard to take the axle out.