The old shortblock was a 7 bolt 4g64 that was built by a reputable machine shop in Springfield MO. It was fully balanced and blueprinted and assembled with a custom torque plate etc. Internals included a polished mitsu 100mm crank with wiseco pistons (9 to 1), crower rods, plus all ARP fasters...
Primary cause of the original engine failure appeared to be rod#2.. it gave up above 500whp and trashed the crank and the rest of the engine along with it.
Well, I found a nice 2.4L long-rod short block (with all billet Magnus rotating assembly) for a very good price on the Link forums with the help of Tim Zimmer. The shop stood by their word and pulled the original engine that they killed on the dyno and had the new engine inspected assembled and...
My old 2.4 block gave up the ghost on the dyno so I had a new 2.4 longrod shortblock built with all billet Magnus internals (rods,crank,Pistons) plus a shotpeened block w ARPs/ACLs etc etc. Short story long.. In the process of getting her ready to go back on the dyno the shop noticed that my...
So far he's been very cooperative. They're pulling the short block and sending it to the machine shop this week. Once the machine shop tears it apart and checks everything out, I'll probably just buy the parts I need and re-assemble the engine myself.
I appreciate the support and kind words but I have jack stands and lots of tools and I know how to work on this car by myself. For me one of the most rewarding things about owning my DSM for all of these years has been the fact that these cars practically force you to become an amateur...
Phunny, .. I didn't just leave my car at their shop for a year and not check up on things. Seriously? It has taken them a year to do all of the work I listed in the OP because (A): they are incredibly slow and hard to get a hold of and (B): every time I had them replace something they ran into...
Well, my never ending battle with this car continues. After dropping an obscene amount of money on parts and labor at a "reputable shop" trying to finally get everything right with this car, I'm practically back to square one. I thought I had everything ready for the dyno when I first took my...
Well, it turns out the tuner lied when he said he was "afraid to turn the boost any higher because something might let go". I went to pick up the car from the shop, fired it up only to see smoke billowing out the back and noticed some of the nastiest rod knock I've ever heard. He blew up my...
No, I did the initial fire and break-in myself. The engine was built by a machine shop in Springfield MO about 6 years ago (see profile for details). I installed it myself with some help from a friend and a lot of Budweiser. The engine probably has less than 3000 miles on it because I've had...
They did a compression and leakdown test after the valve stem seals were replaced (before the last dyno runs) due to oil puddling on cylinder 2 causing lots of smoke. Afterwards I was told that the compression and leakdown tests were good but I don't have the actual numbers in front of me. If...
Well, my car made very disappointing numbers on the dyno this week considering how much money I dumped into the new turbo, fuel, and drivetrain setup. It should be pushing over 640whp at 30psi and capable of 40+ psi and over 750whp. However, since my engine supposedly has issues, the shop says...
BingoSo, after a little digging I found a post from twicks69 where he recommends the following clutch setup:Does anyone know the advantages of the $1,600 custom kit above vs the $1050 off the shelf QM kit that MAP and Shep sell? Is the custom setup necessary to reach the 800ish whp my...
Haha.. thanks. "Pot committed" is poker terminology. It means you've already committed too much money to a hand to fold your cards. Anyone have some input on clutch and transmission options to support 800whp?