Not exactly positive but I’m pretty sure it was either one of my ecu cables coming loose, or a bad ground. So if the testing as shown above passes, I’d check for loose wires and grounds. Good luck my man
I don’t hear the whining when trying to crank. No click at the gas cap. I even tried starting it while the back seats removed to make sure I’d hear it.
I don’t think so. I was able to get a reading by connecting power to pin 2 and 4 ( in the picture above ) while they are connected you test the ohmswith a multimeter, should be around 70
I found a local guy who’s gonna let me use one of his spare ecus to see if that is the issue since I also can’t connect to dsmlink. Hopefully that’s my issue. If not I’m gonna have to chase the fuel pump wiring to make sure it’s all good.
When 2 and 4 are getting power, do I test ohms on 1 and 3? If so, it flashes random numbers but eventually go down to 0. I have dsmlink, but I can’t get my cable to connect anymore. Also, when I tried the check connector last week, nothing happened. So it’s confusing me :banghead:. My check...
I have the red on pin 4 (bottom right) and the black on pin 3 (top right). When I try to test the ohms on one and 3 it’s always a different number, sometimes 30, sometimes 90. But it always goes back to 0 if I keep the test leads on.
Sorry for the labeling I should have labeled the relay.At first I’ll admit I was testing the harness. But I’ve been testing the relays out of the car for the past day or 2 and can’t get the multimeter to give a solid reading. It’ll flash a random number, sometimes 30, sometimes 90, then drop...
Diagnosing a no-start. Fuel pump isn’t turning on. Tested the fuel pump by directly connecting power to it and it turned on. Trying to test the relays. In the picture below it’s sayingto test the continuity between 2-4. Do i have them labeled correctly in the pictures? And this is just with the...