^This, or try to find a local machine shop. had the same issue with a head I had purchased, had 3 broken in it. Called a machine shop in town and had all three removed for about $30. Was well worth it to not have to fight them myself.

Hate to be the one to ask, but is it an auto trans?EDIT- looks like I was beat.

Well, it ended up costing me about 1500 total make the change and rebuild the engine in the process. That said I also wasn't planning to use dsmlink to tune it so I wasn't in need of an eprom, just got a regular turbo ecu to put in. other than the ecu you need to replace the maf with a turbo...

How do you know that it was rebuilt 8K ago? and what exactly does "rebuilt" mean and by whom? Was it a shop, or the previous owner? Cam timing would be good to check, just for assurance if nothing else since you know the motor has been gone through. ECU is probably fried, but it sounds like...

I had to use an impact screw driver (one of those ones you hit with a hammer to loosen) to break those loose on my FWD. The worst part of the whole job was lining up the bolt that goes into the bottom of the tank with the bracket again inside. Make sure to do that before putting all of those...

look under the rear of the car and see if you can see a differential.188K would worry me though. Anything that high IMO is like dancing on a mine field if you're wanting to drive it alot. If you're planning on some sort of project for it though, well the only thing that matters is how deep...

yeah most likely the whole thing just needs replaced. These are very prone to leaking, mine was coming in everywhere. bolt holes, spark plug hole seals, any of those rubber pieces right there. I got mine from fel-pro for like 25 bucks or something like that for the whole set. VC gasket, all 4...

+1 on check timing. that can NEVER hurt being your first check on these. Even if the problem doesn't seem to be at all related, it can never hurt to make sure it's still good. better safe than sorry.After that (assuming it's in time when you check it) check your cam angle sensor. I just put...

So survey says let it warm up and see if it goes down. okay i'll try that tonight, and if it doesn't drop once it starts to warm up then i guess the relief valve is getting ported. thanks for the help so far i'll post tonight when i find out more.okay. Good news and bad news.Good first...

thanks. i'd like to have more input though. that just seems crazy high to me but if that's the way it is then that's the way it is.what kind of pressure do you see at a warm idle Hubz? what kind of range does it get to through the RPMs?EDIT: and what does "built" mean exactly?Sorry for...

yes the bolt holes were smaller, but the ports weren't any smaller.

i'm afraid it's going to blo some gaskets out or something that's alot of pressure. and most of the gaskets on this thing were cardboard/paper material. it shouldn't be near that high... not with everything set up stock... look at your tires, bet they say either 44 or 50 psi max. if tires can't...

Alright i just did a full rebuld on a NT 6 bolt block. It was built to be a turbo motor, has turbo pistons installed, kept balance shafts, everything was bought to make it a stock turbo rebuild except the block/crank/rods. only thing aftermarket 272/272 cams. Only thing missing should be oil...

installing new water pump bolt don't remember what length each bolt is and what order they go in. help?

stock shortblock for those wondering, with a set of stock replacement pistons for a turbo motor. all new gaskets and bearings everywhere. stock turbo for now, so nothing crazy. i'm planning to build the other 6-bolt i have later though thats in the car now. it's also a non turbo, but i was...