I appreciate it! Yeah sucks your on the other side of PA. I did read the ECM article you just sent about the wb. Mine acts just as that says bounces all over the place from good to lean back and fourth quickly as I’m sure you saw in the log I posted. So maybe to fix that I need to adjust my o2...
Hmm...okay. I’ll checked that link and searched for the wideband info. A lot of info in there. I honestly don’t even know where to start to verify this is setup right. Is there a way I can verify the calibration? Should I change the way the wideband is setup? I followed a write up on here back...
It has its own vac source from the intake manifold. I had someone else say it could be that the stock return is restricting and that’s why I’m having issues. Idk if that could be a possibility. But I feel like plenty of people have used stock feed and stock return without issues. I read through...
Yeah I’m running a fuel pressure in car as well. So I’m able to see it. Another thing I noticed was if I use link with car off and activate fuel pump my pressure will sit right at 43. Then I turn the car on and the pressure is at like 47-48psi back and fourth At idle, is that normal??
It has the numbers haha. It’s a normal digital AEM wideband. It displays the numerical readout. But like I mentioned if it goes either to rich or lean for What the gauge can display it will show three dashes instead of numbers till it’s back in range. As far the the voltages and global deadtime...
Yes it is a wideband gauge. And that wideband will read 3 dashes at any point if to rich or lean for the gauge to read it will just show three dashes. Yup car has the High z Fic 2150s on pump right now. I’ve attached a photo for what my injector voltages are at. As far as global fuel that is at...
Hey guys having some fuel related issue and can’t seem to narrow it down. The car right now has FIC 2150s and a walbro 450. I was having an issue every time the turbo would start to spool as soon as I hit 5k I just get back firing and breaking up and it’s lean. At first I thought it was maybe...
Ok I will do that. I did adjust that clutch stop thread rod at the top a decent amount to give that pedal more travel when it comes up but maybe I could go a tad more. The stop on the pedal itself has to just come up enough to barely be touching that little button right? Here is a photo of how...
Hey guys update....so I actually followed the Jacks Transmission clutch pedal and master cylinder adjustment video, a great video on adjusting. Followed that and the pedal feels much better. I’m guessing it was in fact a clutch drag issue causing it to shutoff. The RPMs drop ever so slightly...